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Trailer with car top carrier for Bikes/Trikes.

Ahead of my plans:waving:
However had to cut up the last 2"x 2" x 3/16"x 20' angle sitting in the car port to get it out of my way.
It only take one 29 footer.
COST $40.00 w/tax
So cut the parts for the next trailer.
Will make a post on it & it will be fast.

Shows the parts cut to build the frame with the NEW torque axle.
COST $125.00 w/new 12" rims & tires, yard sale. (Value about $300.00)



2 hours later all welded up.



With the SEARS SPORT 15-CAV car top carrier sitting on it.
Fender is just sitting on the tire.






Now to get the 15" rims & tires on it & mount the box to the frame.
Then paint it.
 

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Looks like a fun afternoon project! Curious to know why 15" wheels instead of the 12" wheels.
 

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Two words: rolling resistance! The larger or rather the TALLER the tire is, to a point, anyway, the less resistance it has to rolling. Which makes it easier to tow and corner, etc.
Mark
 

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I still have a set of 15" rims on the Ranger that I will be removing.
And they will fit the fenders better then the 12's.Also what THE gingerbreadman say.
Here it is, all welding finished with the box sitting on it.
It sits level with the tow hitch on the trike.
Will be mounted the same way a on top of the car racks so I can remove it if wanted.
Grind down the welds & corner all of the sharp edges.



And with the fender cramped on the box lid.
Tail lights will be LED mounted to bottom of fenders.



Need to get the 2" hitch ( have a 1 7/8" now). , wiring & safety chain.
So off to HF on Monday.
So far less the 5 hours in it for cutting & assy.
Now off the paint.
 

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Hey gingerbreadman how bout some pictures & info on that Great looking Red Trike :congrats:
 

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heck if i could modify a set of 16inch tires on my little trailer which isnt any bigger than the one posted i'd do it in a heartbeat
 

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peterbilt wrote:
heck if i could modify a set of 16inch tires on my little trailer which isnt any bigger than the one posted i'd do it in a heartbeat
Most trailer axle uses 4.5" bolt patten.
Mustang 16" rims should fit.
However the 6' X 12' trailer I have uses the smaller GM rims
 

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i got a set of spare tires off a geo metro i think they are 14's and they are a 4hole pattern

winter project maybe lol
 

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Could you go aluminum to reduce the weight??
 

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rustymich wrote:
Could you go aluminum to reduce the weight??
Yes aluminum is the way to go.
Just tried the Ranger rimes & tires, but they are to wide for the frame.
They are hitting the body.
May need to find skinner tires or go to a 6" wide rim.The Ranger rimes are 14" x 7".
The fenders were design for 13" tires.
 

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BMS wrote:
SKIP,

Where did you get the axle?

BMS
I bought a set of plans from " Hercules Cargo Trailer Plans" for this trailer, I think they were $15.00.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Plan..._Camper_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5ae25d1404

They also sell axles.
I got 4 "DEXTER AXLE" Rubber Torsion Axles from a going out of business which built Smoker Oven for that great Southern BBQ.
Got them at $85.00 each + 2 Free 12" rims & tires.

Well the Ranger rims were to wide for the trailer & couldn't find 14" trailer tires to fit the 5" wide rim.
So at Northern Tools they had some 800/80-13" rime & tires on sale for 100.00 each.
Got a pair saving $40.00.
Welded on the 2" tow hitch& started to paint the bottom BLACK.
@ cans should do it with 3 coats, top & bottom.



The rims

 

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All painted (2 cans of paint with 3 coats) & ready for reassy.
This is an easy weekend project for anyone.
Mount the car top carrier & run the wiring.

 

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"Welded on the 2" tow hitch" WHY a two inch hitch????? Or are you talking about a two inch tube receiver????? A one and seven eigths ballis MORE than ample.
 

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vtxcandyred wrote:
"Welded on the 2" tow hitch" WHY a two inch hitch????? Or are you talking about a two inch tube receiver????? A one and seven eigths ballis MORE than ample.
Don't know about Skip20, but for me it's not just what does the job but which works best all around.

Most of my stuff (and freinds) are 2" hitch so any vehicle that tows has has a 2" ball, keeping everything the same makes life easier. I can tow any trailer with any vehicle.
Being the balls are not on the same type mounts it's not always a fast easy switch, some are 1 1/4" receiver and others 2" then there are step bumpers with balls etc..
For me it's just best to use 2" on everything, I even bought a 2" coupler for the little HF 1080lbs trailer when I bought it LOL
 

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vtxcandyred wrote:
"Welded on the 2" tow hitch" WHY a two inch hitch????? Or are you talking about a two inch tube receiver????? A one and seven eigths ballis MORE than ample.
All my trailers have 2" ball hitches & for some reason the rec'er hitch was also 2".
Plus 2" are readily available & cheaper too.
Try & find a 1 1/4" ball, most are 1 7/8' or 2",
2" are stronger so I use 2".
And yes, I welded it on.
 

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a 2inch ball and reciever is a alot of overkill lol but hey whatever floats yorboat

on the farm we welded on the ball to the recievers cuz when your in the middle of no where sometimes it would come loose and your dead in the water unless you got a inch and a half socket to tighten it or a big cresent wrench
 

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I go with a 2" ball for the same reason.

Over kill? No, I hate changing out the receiver hitches.

I have a special made hitch for my truck, it has a step plate installed so I can get in the bed of the truck easy.
 

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Got the wiring running though the towing neck & into the box.
The 2 LED side lights are wired & anchored down.
The box is bolted to the frame.
Next the hard part is cutting the fender lip to mount the LED tail lights.
They are held in by the rubber seal & will have to be a very good fit.



Got 1 of them in!:raspberry:







Here one fender is mounted to the lid.
The bolt on the top to lid will get a tube over it to look better.
You could use the smaller metal fender, but I wanted plastic & found these on eBay about 8 months ago.
They are boat trailer fenders.
Will change the lid holder to some rams which will lift the lid higher.
Remover the lid lock to get a key made for it & able to close the lid all the way down.
Car carrier was bought used at a garage sale for $25.00 ($299.00 NEW) so no key.



OK, both fenders & tail lights are mounted.
As you can tell, I've been take my sweet a** time on this.
Finish the wiring & get a key made & it's finished till I go to junk yard for some rams.
 

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:waving:That looks familiar! I built a "pan" outa baltic birch and oak, to stiffen up the bottom. A decent "RoadGator" would blast right through the carrier on the highway. I'm working on an aluminumsub frame for the lid/top. It is SOOO flimsy when you open it. I intend on changing the way it opens as well. I think it should open sideways, instead of end to end. Ya gotta bend WAY over to reach up inside the carrier. If you find a good plastic paint, with custom mix capabilities, let me know. I found LED rubber gasket type tail lights to be a piece of cake to install. Nice towing little trailer, huh? jimsjinx
 

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