Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums banner
1 - 19 of 19 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
88 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
This transmission is known to cliuk when shifting but sometimes it gets so rough, I feel like it's going to rip the engine out. It's just that one time on a cold engine, subsequent shifting are not as bad. Additional observation is when having bike on center stand and trying to freewheel, clutch does not function as it should, when in gear and clutch compressed, it does not stop the wheel from spinning, only on a cold engine but after it's warmed up all good. Is this what everyone is experiemcing or do I have a problem?

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,163 Posts
I don't suspect a serious problem. Cold oil will have more "stiction" and the clutch discs may not completely releases when cold. Remember, we don't ride on the center stand....
Remove the clutch lever and you'll find a pin that connects the lever to the operating cylinder of the clutch slave. There is a brass "barrel" in the handle the pin fits into. The barrel will wear and not allow full stroke on the lever/cylinder. Replace the barrel and lube all contact points. The wear is noticeable prior to disassembly by a certain amount of free play before resistance is felt in the clutch lever.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
88 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Excellent suggestion. When I rebuilt master cylinders, I wondered why would anyone want to replace the barrel. Now it makes sense. Thank you!
I don't suspect a serious problem. Cold oil will have more "stiction" and the clutch discs may not completely releases when cold. Remember, we don't ride on the center stand....
Remove the clutch lever and you'll find a pin that connects the lever to the operating cylinder of the clutch slave. There is a brass "barrel" in the handle the pin fits into. The barrel will wear and not allow full stroke on the lever/cylinder. Replace the barrel and lube all contact points. The wear is noticeable prior to disassembly by a certain amount of free play before resistance is felt in the clutch lever.
Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
 

·
Busdriver
Joined
·
1,037 Posts
If you haven't flushed and bled your clutch fluid in a while now's the time.
Also I find on my 1500 that to get smooth shifts i need to upshift at 2500 rpm or higher.
 

·
Administrator
02 GL1800 w/Auto Pilot
Joined
·
61,278 Posts
Don't know that it would make any difference at all, but i always put my bike up on the Center Stand, makes it easier for 75 y/o legs to get mounted up. let the bike warm up about 3 to 5 minutes before I go.



i am using 5w40 synthetic, Rotella T6


used T5 10w30 last year,



can't tell that either is better than the other.
always seems to shift 'okay', it is more a matter of my "shift technique"


I actually had a missed 4 to 5 shift this weekend, was daydreaming gawking at stuff out in the pasture lands, and didn't do a proper upshift. just backed off the throttle slightly and up shifted again and it was fine.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,163 Posts
I actually had a missed 4 to 5 shift this weekend, was daydreaming gawking at stuff out in the pasture lands, and didn't do a proper upshift. just backed off the throttle slightly and up shifted again and it was fine.
One thing my 1200 requires is a "deliberate" shift. Sometimes I get lazy too, and it lets me know....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
818 Posts
My '85 LTD has an HD like shift first thing starting out. Shifting after this is quite smooth and the hard shift does not occur until the next morning when it is first put in gear. New clutch, new clutch lever bushing, clutch slave rebuilt, and well flushed/bleed. My second '85 LTD here in Ontario is the same way.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
88 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Yup, that sums it up for me. Thanks.
My '85 LTD has an HD like shift first thing starting out. Shifting after this is quite smooth and the hard shift does not occur until the next morning when it is first put in gear. New clutch, new clutch lever bushing, clutch slave rebuilt, and well flushed/bleed. My second '85 LTD here in Ontario is the same way.
Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
 

·
Premium Member
2000 GL1500SE
Joined
·
3,342 Posts
I bought a 85 LTD new and that is the same way it shifted the whole 26 years I owned it.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,191 Posts
When I changed to Lucas semi-syn motorcycle oil, the shifting " Clunk" was noticeably less... Not zero.... but less...

That first startup shift , though is still a loud clunk .

Just the nature of the 1200 gearbox, I think .....

SilverDave
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,793 Posts
Been off of Wings for a few years, but did spend 25+ years on the 1200's. After starting the engine from cold, I would always work the clutch lever 10>15 times as the motor warmed up. This helped with the initial klunk of the first shift of the day, and totally removed the forward lurch from the sticky clutch plates.


The last 40K on my 86-I was all done with Delo 400 15-40.
 

·
Official "Cheeky Plonker"
Joined
·
1,230 Posts
Here I am poking my nose into another GL1200 thread again. Shooter +1.

I find, (on my 1100 at least) that it is really beneficial to operate the clutch lever 2 or 3 times following startup and get that oil up and around the plates.

Then it doesn't clunk at all, not even when initially dumping it into first gear.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
45 Posts
I felt this too on my 1500. Its just a huge transmission with a lot of power behind it and a lot of weight in front of it. The loud clunk when cold is just getting things moving through the cold thick oil. Same thing with the hydrostatic drive when your on the center stand. Any bike will do this, more when the oil is cold and thick. A good thunk is a good shift. Just remember its a big transmission. Dont lazy shift.

If I am not mistaken the dogs on the goldwings are square edged. I think most light bikes have a little bit of wedge to the leading edge of the gears to help them engage.
 

·
Official "Cheeky Plonker"
Joined
·
1,230 Posts
I know this! All shaft drive motorcycles with a standard transmission, through the ages have had a clunky gear change.

Even BMW couldn't change that.

Kind of makes you think it's all about that rear end drag on the clutch, 'cos as long as it's lubed well, it don't do it.

You want a slick shift? Get a chain or belt drive bike.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
708 Posts
Been off of Wings for a few years, but did spend 25+ years on the 1200's. After starting the engine from cold, I would always work the clutch lever 10>15 times as the motor warmed up. This helped with the initial klunk of the first shift of the day, and totally removed the forward lurch from the sticky clutch plates.


The last 40K on my 86-I was all done with Delo 400 15-40.

FASCINATING! I'll have to try this on my next ride. I've never heard of anything like this before. I just assumed the clunk on the first shift into gear was because the oil hadn't splashed around enough to lube all the important parts.

Now I'm dyin' to get back to the bike to try this... dang!
 

·
Senior Member
Joined
·
1,795 Posts
FASCINATING! I'll have to try this on my next ride. I've never heard of anything like this before. I just assumed the clunk on the first shift into gear was because the oil hadn't splashed around enough to lube all the important parts.

Now I'm dyin' to get back to the bike to try this... dang!
Also try this :
- start engine
- pull cluth lever
- "blip" throttle (this will "loosen" cluth plates )
- let engine return to idle
- put in gear ( and you will see that the "clunk" is almost gone )
 

·
Premium Member
95 Aspencade SE
Joined
·
36 Posts
This transmission is known to cliuk when shifting but sometimes it gets so rough, I feel like it's going to rip the engine out. It's just that one time on a cold engine, subsequent shifting are not as bad. Additional observation is when having bike on center stand and trying to freewheel, clutch does not function as it should, when in gear and clutch compressed, it does not stop the wheel from spinning, only on a cold engine but after it's warmed up all good. Is this what everyone is experiemcing or do I have a problem?

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
On my 95 When first started in the spring it clunked really hard and stalled the engine. Thought about it and now when it is warming up I work the clutch a few times while blipping the throttle. Not first shift from neutral to first is normal.
 
1 - 19 of 19 Posts
Top