Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums banner

161 - 180 of 185 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
541 Posts
I thought for sure ranger was 15" Been building mustang race cars for 10 years. never saw a 4 lug 15" mustang. (you did say fairmont)
My old 4 cyl ranger was 14", my stepfather had one same year, with a 2.9, it had 15" wheels and tow package, but all were 5 lug

Here is a stock 87 Mustang 15" wheel
 

Attachments

·
Member
Joined
·
310 Posts
Discussion Starter #162
I'll check to see if I can locate a set of gears first, If not I'll be putting bigger tires on her.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
80 Posts
Jammer, While you are looking for your rake kit, and if you run across a 5 degree for a 81 GL1100I, Please let me know! Still doing body work on mine, But it will not be long before paint, Thanks Charlie
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
80 Posts
Trike Lady, Thanks for the return, I have been in touch with Bill, But hoping to find one a little more cheaper, 1080.00 plus bearings is a little more than I want to spend at this time, [got to clean up some cards] Jammer, Thanks for the return, What size is your 3rd member, Thanks Charles Franz
 

·
Member
Joined
·
310 Posts
Discussion Starter #169
Sorry Bob. NO I have not called yet. Racing season has started, So my spare time is limited through the summer. I wrote a note to call them tomorrow. Thanks again.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,647 Posts
Just read most of this thread for the first time. If your new trike has the newer '70s / 80s sized 4 lug Ford pattern (4 holes X 108 mm (4.25") circle using 1/2-20 studs) as used on almost all Fox bodied Fords (T-birds, Cougars, Mustangs) and Pintos, then yes .... there are a bunch of 15" wheels available as that includes 1979-1993 Mustang GTs (*not SVO) as well as those '83-'88 Thunderbirds and T-bird Turbo Coupes (that even came with 16" wheels in 1987 / 88).

My Lehman trike uses a Ford 6.75" rear housing cut down with 3.08:1 gearing, uses new shorter axles, Ford 1.75x9" drum brakes, 7/8" diam wheel cylinders, 15x7 ASA 5 spoke wheels (I even picked up a spare pair off ebay a few years ago) and Lehman shipped Dunlop GT Qualifier 245/60-15 tires with the kit. I had a '85 Thunderbird with "10 hole" Ford 15x7 wheels and it had same exact lug pattern and back spacing as the wheel Lehman shipped. When tires needed replacement, I went with 215/70-15 Lemans HR tires which are same OD, weight 4 pounds less per tire, are 1" narrower overall ..... and I installed longer Morosso studs and used some 1/2" spacers to bring the tire sidewall back out near fender for asthetics sake.


3,000 rpm in 5th is near 65 mph as I recall. I had a picture ..... I'll look closer.

The old Ford 4 lug pattern (4 holes X 114.3 mm (4.5") circle using 1/2-20 studs) as used on Falcons and 6 cyl Mustangs in the '60s is different, that is the same pattern used by Motor Trike I believe. I am not sure of other manufacturers.

Easy to measure, 4 lugs, measure across center to center of lugs. There are also aftermarket 4 lug wheels made in a dual lug pattern.
 

·
Member
Joined
·
310 Posts
Discussion Starter #171
CrystalPistol: I'm turning 2750 at 60 mph. I think that's a little high. I thought about larger tires as that would be the easiest to do. However my concern there is affecting the handling of the front end. I purchased a 4.5 degree tree that didn't come with fork extensions. If a add 4.5 to the forks this will drop the front end some (not sure how much) Then putting bigger tires on the rear will lift the rear of the bike. Now I can adjust for the by changing the ride height in the rear (easily done) Except for clearance between the tires and the fenders. I can also move the fenders up to solve this but would require me to disassemble the complete body. So i thought I would just change gears. My concern is turning the wing's RPM's up for long periods. Any thought's.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,703 Posts
That rpm won't hurt the motor but will kill any fuel milage,my 91 turns 3100 at 70 and does decent on fuel ,40-45 but over 3000 fuel milage worsens.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,647 Posts
CrystalPistol: I'm turning 2750 at 60 mph. I think that's a little high. I thought about larger tires as that would be the easiest to do. However my concern there is affecting the handling of the front end. I purchased a 4.5 degree tree that didn't come with fork extensions. If a add 4.5 to the forks this will drop the front end some (not sure how much) Then putting bigger tires on the rear will lift the rear of the bike. Now I can adjust for the by changing the ride height in the rear (easily done) Except for clearance between the tires and the fenders. I can also move the fenders up to solve this but would require me to disassemble the complete body. So i thought I would just change gears. My concern is turning the wing's RPM's up for long periods. Any thought's.

My Trike has 3.08:1 rear axle ratio and uses either 245/60-15 or 215/70-15 rear tires. (It came with BFGoodrich 245/60s which are pretty fat .... and heavy ..... and I replaced them when time came to with narrower but same diameter 215/70s that saved 4-5 pounds per tire due to narrower tread and which are less likely to hydroplane I think .... and for asthetics sake, I added 5/8" spacers behind the wheels using cut down but still longer Moroso 1/2-20 race car studs)

At an indicated 60 its turning near 2900 rpm. At 3000 it's running about 62/63 mph. It's always done so, it's been geared like that since becoming a trike in 1998 some 60-70K miles or so ago. I have run it all day long at 70-73 mph ..... about 3500 on the tach. Other than a ferocious (judged against my 1200 bike) appetite for gas, it has shown no ill affects. At those speeds, mpg is in the high 20s, 30 -31 maybe if a tail wind is blowing. In my last life I grew tired of the major interstate through here, unless early morning when traffic is light, I tend to avoid it and favor old US 11 or other highways and roadways. Keeping rpms under 3000 I can usually see 34-37 mpg fill to fill.

Higher gears or taller rear tires will kill some low speed grunt in 1st, 2nd, .... mean more clutch slip on hill side take offs loaded ..... and will mean a sooner downshift on my Blue Ridge Parkway with trailer and all at 40-45 mph.

If I lived in west Texas or Ok or NM, etc ..... where limits are higher and distances longer looking, I might be interested in dropping to a 2.73 rear .... but then the engine would have a hard pull pulling the trike with those two big air brakes called rear fenders / tires as it spun those extra flywheels called rear wheels / tires / brakes up to speed and to maintain the speed against the wind ..... it really seems to like the 3.08s and I don't have those long expansive roadways.


My 6 degree kit came with extensions, but once installed with Progressive's 1500 springs (11-1152 below) ..... they settled fast to that spot where they get stiffer and the front always sagged .... with Progressives. Many found happiness with the 11-1122 springs meant for a GL-1200, the rate better suits the increased rake angle of the kitted 1500 forks. By accident, I ordered and installed the 11-1112 springs .... and I found out afterwards ..... so I swapped back to the 11-1122 springs ...... but I found the best ones were the 11-1112 springs meant for a Kawasaki. With wife and I on the trike at rest the forks are held up within an inch of topped out and the spring rate is same as those highly touted 1200 springs ..... with 10 wgt Belray Fork Oil, the ride is superior to either other set up. The 1200 springs rode well, the Kawasaki ones did too while holding the front higher.

  • Progressive # 11-1112 is for Kawasaki KZ1200/1300 (in my 1500 trike)
    20.75 " L <>1.19" OD <> 45/70 Lbs/In.<> near 0.210 wire <> 54 winds

    Progressive # 11-1122 is for GL-1200 GoldWings
    20.00 " L <>1.34" OD <> 45/70 Lbs/In. <> near 0.230 wire <> 50 winds

    Progressive # 11-1152 is for GL-1500 GoldWings
    20.50 " L <>1.35" OD <> 35/80 Lbs/In.
Below are a couple pics of speedo / tach that I included, some math will carry you to the 60 mph speeds and higher. 2100 rpm @ 44 mph and 2625 rpm @ 54 mph.

:)


 

Attachments

·
Member
Joined
·
310 Posts
Discussion Starter #174
Well With that said I think I will not go through the hassle and just leave it. I do not do a lot of highway driving at all. I think I will however switch over to the aluminum drums though. As for the front spring.................I'm gonna see how it settles down. I purchased a factory tree that was modified. That's why the extensions and bearings did not come with it. As for fuel . I went from 125 per tank to 100 after converting. idles smooth and runs smooth. I ended up with a set of 06 dyna wide glide mufflers. Little to loud for my liking.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,647 Posts
Well With that said I think I will not go through the hassle and just leave it. I do not do a lot of highway driving at all. I think I will however switch over to the aluminum drums though. As for the front spring.................I'm gonna see how it settles down. I purchased a factory tree that was modified. That's why the extensions and bearings did not come with it. As for fuel . I went from 125 per tank to 100 after converting. idles smooth and runs smooth. I ended up with a set of 06 dyna wide glide mufflers. Little to loud for my liking.
I think you'll be happier, as 27-2800 rpm at 60 mph ain't bad. Gearing it higher will make it "lazier" feeling when accelerating and likely even hurt mileage as it will take a heavier throttle to maintain the speed.

I never considered aluminum drums .... but I'm gonna look now! :)
Just never thought about them? But then weight is weight and less is like a lighter flywheel.

You can go further than 100 miles to a tank can't you? When you fill up at 100 miles, how much is it drinking in? It'll hold over 6 gallons?
 

·
Member
Joined
·
310 Posts
Discussion Starter #176
I'm not sure how many gallons I'm putting in. But when I fill up at 100 miles on the trip meter.................. I'm on empty. and yes weight is weight. I found a set of the aluminum drums on a race car at a local race track I tech at a few years back.
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
58,970 Posts
GL1500 Fuel Gauge Calibration fix

I'm not sure how many gallons I'm putting in. But when I fill up at 100 miles on the trip meter.................. I'm on empty. and yes weight is weight. I found a set of the aluminum drums on a race car at a local race track I tech at a few years back.
I realize this quoted post is old, but the fuel gauge on the 1500s is badly off in calibration.

I fixed both of my 1500s by removing the fuel pump, siphon all gas out, pour in exactly 3.0 gallons of gas.

Now, handlebar kill switch off, turn on the Key-switch and watch the fuel gauge.

reach inside the tank to the left front corner and feel the float arm. move it up or down and notice how the gauge reacts. you want to bend the arm so that the gauge will read exactly 1/2 tank.

The effect is that the gauge will now be very accurate all the way to the empty mark. when it reaches the bottom line, the low fuel light should be starting to burn.

The top half of the gauge will be slow to come down off the top, but who cares? what you really need to know is how much is left in the tank at the bottom end of the gauge.

In your situation, I am willing to suggest that at "empty" on that gauge, you never, ever pumped in more than 4.5 gallons of gas.
 
161 - 180 of 185 Posts
Top