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My 1800 trunk lid is starting to drop very close to the trunk and I'm afraid it will start rubbing the paint off. I seen the threads on the GL1800 forum etc about putting the fish tank tube inside the rubber, but I can't get it to go through as it is to soft and just bunches up in the rubber (used WD40 etc to no avail). Any tips for getting this to work before my paint gets scraped to bits?
 

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I did the fish tank tubing thing on my 01 and it worked-for a while that is. Eventually the lid started sinking again so I pulled the tube out and saw that it was squashed into an oval shape, probably from the weight of a pillion passenger squashing it. I sold the bike before I got around to doing a permanent fix.
When I got my 03I looked around for stronger tubing that wasn't too strong (not as easy as I thought) and eventually found it. I've actually almost finished a page for the site on this subject, so I'll let you know when it's done (started it months ago but forgot about it until now) as it will save me doing a parrot and repeating myself.
 
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I fitted four feltgliders about seven months ago,:Daround the inside of the trunk lid on my wing and it appears to have solved the rubbingproblem. These are little circular feltstickers. :)It's very important that the lid is properly adjusted, and should always be closed gently.;) The same applies to the saddlebags. :cool:
 

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If you happened to fit the expensiveheavy billet alluminium luggage rack and the medallion series trunk handle to your lid you will be aware of the added weight problem on the lid. These accessories look amazing but they are much too heavy and the lid can have a tendancy to close with a bang if you are not extra careful with it. The extra weight really speeds up the rubbing process so I am eagerly awaiting Steves article on how to prevent the rubbing. I am having a problem with it since fitting these items.
 
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In my humble opinion,:) the only item that should be fitted to the trunk lid is, "The Spoiler" :D and thats fitted for safety alone. The extra brake and running light helps keep some jack assfrom running up your ar!! even when your stopped. Any other item is not required and causes too much weight. :cool:
 

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Steve I tried your cure and managed to get the pipe right through the entire seal but then the lid wouldn't close, being too tight at the lock end. I took the pipe out of the front section, cutting it when it had covered both sides as you suggested and it closes ok nowwhilst a little on the tight side. On close examination of the hinge I discovered a nut missing from the left hinge? (Possibly left out by lastmechanic working at it) I replaced it with another, but my lid appears a little high on both sides at the hinge end and a little tight at the lock end. It is as if it isn't seating right since the shop put in the newCorbin Seat and rear speakers. I have virtually no gap at the lock end and too large a gap at thehinge end. I have looked at both hinges closely and can see no way of adjusting them. Can you enlighten this ignorant one exactly how and where you adjust the hinges to tighten up the back end of the lid, as I can see six bolts into six holes with nothing I can find that is adjustable? :?
 
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Littlejohn, from my knowledge of this prob it's not the hinges that need adjusting after fitting the rubber hose. It's the two latches that the lid closes down on. The lid should close with a gentle drop if not the latches need adjusting. ;)
 

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I may have an ill fitting top or perhaps the extra weight of the Corbin Seat, rack and handle are upseting the geometry of it but I have a gap at the rear above the hinges where the rear speakers sit and it is flush at the front over the indicators and lock? Excuse my ignorance again but having looked at the latches they are secured with four screws, a short end and a longendwith nothing I can see to adjust. Could someone point me in the right area to adjust here as the only thing left I haven't looked at is the lock mechanism. Also when the tubing was fitted right the way round, thelid wouldn'tclose over the indicators to reach the lock thereby wouldn't close, until I removed the tubing from the seal behind the actual latches? I may just leave it alone and let Steve have a look at it in Limerick and I have a habit of breaking things when I try too hard.
 

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I did this task today also. No problems and I did not adjust anything, but my lid was very loose and rattled before hand and is tight and no rattles now.
 

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John,
You need to adjust the latches in the LID, not the locks in the trunk itself. Just loosen the two screws in each latch and move them and try closing the lid then. It might take a couple of attempts to get it right. If your lid is a bitstrained from being removed and fitted wrong then pull the rubber hose a bit further back (ie cutting it a bit shorter) and closing again. You will get it right after a while. The end result should be a good even gap all round, although the actual object is to keep the lid clear of the trunk at the usual dodgy spots.
 

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I put the new hose into my trunk on Friday (€1 per foot!) and I couldn't get it past the sides so I just left it in the sides and cut it. Worked fine without adjusting anything (but then again my trunk is 2.5 years old) and the 1mm gap at the rear of the trunk is back to about 3-4mm now. Great job, caught it just in time.
 

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I got it in the local motor factors (Rickards in Clondalkin village). It seems easy enough to get, they had lots of different sizes on rolls.
 

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Be careful you don't get ripped off, as I went into a motor factors in Belfast and the wanted £9 fora couple ofmetres of standard fuel line. I went to my local Motor Factors and got a better quality hose designed for diesel engines for £3 and it worked as Steve said it should. If you pay more than £4 you are paying too much for it?
 

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John, you probably got the same stuff as Steve didi then. It petrol & diesel resistant and on diesels its used for the little overflow pipes on the injectors. That stuff should last forever and won't squish out of shape in the trunk.
 

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Small warning ref the sizing of the fuel pipe. Steve recommends in his fix using7mm diameter fuel pipe but if you ask for 7mm fuel line in your motor factors,that is exactly what you will get. You get a pipe marked 7mm on it but this refers to the internal diameter and will be too thick to go into the seal on the lid? Before you buy make sure the line is 6 - 7mm thick on the outside as Steve indicates or you will be going back for another piece the right size. (I know because I was thick and made this mistake first time around?) :?
 
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Littlejohn wrote:
Small warning ref the sizing of the fuel pipe. Steve recommends in his fix using7mm diameter fuel pipe but if you ask for 7mm fuel line in your motor factors,that is exactly what you will get. You get a pipe marked 7mm on it but this refers to the internal diameter and will be too thick to go into the seal on the lid? Before you buy make sure the line is 6 - 7mm thick on the outside as Steve indicates or you will be going back for another piece the right size. (I know because I was thick and made this mistake first time around?) :?
Wingnut states in his article that the hose is 7mm outsideand 3.5mm inner dia. That could'nt be much clearer. :cool:
 

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Redwing I know you are stating the obvious but what I was on about was when you go in and ask for 7mm fuel pipe at your motor factors it is easy to expect it to be exactly that without having to measure it. When they sell you 7mm pipe the size marked on the pipe refers to the internal diameter so it pays to measure it before buying to be sure. I knew Steve said outer diameter 7mm and I was initially fooled by the 7mm stamped on thepipe. Am I thick or what? ;)
 
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