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When I bought my 1500 there was a wire crossing # 10 fuse to # 7 fuse. Did not know why that was done. Left wire in place till I started having problems, removed wire after a lot of trouble shooting found out that the # 7 fuse gets power only when the key is in park. Now no lights at all in park position, found diode under trunk. It is melted. Is there any way to fix it with out putting in a new diode
 

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#7IS the park fuse and does only get power when the key is in the Park position. (runs the tail lights and the compressor outlet stuff)

The #10 is the accessory fuse and handles a bunch of the odd-ball stuff radio, CB, Aircompressor (suspension side) and sees power only when the key is in ON or ACC position...

The diode (Inline Diode B) isolates the the rear lighting (Brakes, Plate, Tailights) so that there's no power back into the bike when the key's in the Park position.

I've see this before as a "triage" kinda fix (most often on trikes) to cover-up a poor connection to the rear lighting... IF someone ever does this, you really wanna pull that diode. Some people do this to run the OUTLET of the compressor with the key on... without thinking that the air-pump's current would be pulled through the lighting and through the ON key-switch contact that is hot after the #3 relay is pulled in -- a freakin' nighmare)
FWIW, you can remove the diode completely (all that will do is "not light" the rear lamps when your key is in the Park position. The diode is shot anyway and you're already getting this behavior. ("Now no lights at all in park position"}

if your air-pump's OUTLET works with the key in Park, then the fix is a new diode (you can test this VERY BRIEFLY) by shorting across the diodes connections, then turning the key to Park to confirm that your park-lighting is restored.

I'm not familiar with this particular diode from Honda, but the other high-current diodes are crazy pricy -- I just pull the old one apart and relpace the componant using DigiKey, RadioShack, or crap-drawer parts. This diode really only supports the rear running lights (including saddle bags) and is fused at 10-amps... about a $6 part at the worst that way...
 

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Called the dealer, they had no idea what i was asking for. Tried to explain where it was located and what it did. Still no clue
 

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You could give them the part# RECTIFIER, SILICON
31710-371-008
Pricey little thing. $27.96 retail
 

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I just eliminated it all together. So far every thing is working just fine. Don't need the parking lights. Thank you all for your help
 

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I had the same problem when i went to the dealer and asked for it as well. I attributed the melting of the diode to running my trailer lights straight connect to the bikes wiring harness. I had to go to a salvage yard to get a replacemet for it and since I have started to use an isolator on my trailer harness it has not happened any more. And my wing has over 229 thousand miles on her and the wiring is all good now...
 
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