[Broke Winger]

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a jig.

I am in a position to MAYBE start R&D and possibly production of the drilling jig for 1000 and 1100 exhaust studs.

And yer like..."Huh?"

Well her is the situation, you need to pull the exhaust off yer old Wing, in the process one of the studs breaks off either flush or down in the head. The only option is to drill it out. But how do you keep the drill from walking of the stud and into the aluminum head?

Well the idea isn't new it just hasn't been done for our specific application.

A jig, that bolts onto the head using the exhaust studs, that features a drill bushing that guides your drill keeping it centered in the stud, so that you drill the stud and only the stud out. You'd then pick out the old bot threads from the head as deep as you can to ensure proper alignment of your tap, use a tap to clean out the rest of the stud threads out and yer good as new with a replacement stud.

The jig would consist of a machined aluminum plate with removable and interchangeable drill guides. Just put the proper guide ont he position of the broken stud and use the remaining studs to bolt the jig in place. The parts would all be machined by hand to insure exact tolerances. The jig would locate your drill within one thousandth of an inch of the center of the stud. The guides would feature pressed in hardened steel inserts which in the very unlikely event that one would wear out it could be pressed out and a new one pressed in.

Such jigs are already around for many automotive applications. But to my knowledge such a thing does not exist specifically for the old Wings. I'm thinking it would be damned handy for the guys who restore these old bikes.

So what I'm wondering about is the marketability of such an item.

Obviously it isn't for every tool box. But would any of you be interested in having such a contraption? If so what would you be willing to pay for it.

 

[Bamaeagle]

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Is there such a jig for the 1500's? If not....would this one work on a 1500?

I have a broken stud in my left exhaust header now. I have tried everything to get it out. It is broken too short to get much on it (stud remover or vise grips).

As far as your question on how much willing to pay....$20-$40 if it helps getting the stud out.

 

[Broke Winger]

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I don't know if it would fit the 1500 or not. As of now the jig would be specifically designed for 1000's and 1100's. Jigs for the 1200's 1500's and 1800's would possibly come later depending on how well the first batch does.

 

[Popeye]

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Broke Winger wrote:

...I am in a position to MAYBE start R&D and possibly production of the drilling jig for 1000 and 1100 exhaust studs.

But how do you keep the drill from walking of the stud and into the aluminum head? ...

I've always used a smaller chromium, vanadium, titanium, etc., bit to start the hole & then progressed to larger bits as needed.

A jig would be handy, but it ought to be somewhat universal regarding models of bikes.



If you get a working prototype, remember toGoogle-up the U.S. Patent Office and get your app in, before sharing. Easy enough.

Good Luck !!

 

[Broke Winger]

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I took a good look at the head off an 1100 today...not sure what I had in mind is even possible. At least not the way i had intended.

 

[exavid]

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Wouldn't it be simpler just to bolt the pipes back on and use a bushing in the hole where the broken off stud was to guide the bit?

 

[FenderHead]

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exavid wrote:

Wouldn't it be simpler just to bolt the pipes back on and use a bushing in the hole where the broken off stud was to guide the bit?

I like the jig idea, but I'm afraid its a bit of a luxury for most of us, because each of us will likely not have to deal with a broken "GL" stud in our lifetimes. BUT...we will likely have to deal with some type of broken stud(s), somewhere, sometime. So please read on...

The bushing idea is unique and great also; IF we happen to have one. For me, and at least some others here, it would be most simple to make a soft, "one-shot" bushing since we either have access to, or possess a metal-cutting lathe and simple bushings are relative "no-brainers". (Bushings don't work so well if the header flange is "slotted" at all, by the way).

What I would suggest, after having to occasionally deal with broken studs and zero budget for the last 50 years, is to have a good, sharp center-punch and a smaller ball-pin hammer in the tool box. The trick is to create a "depression" in the end of the stud or bolt that needs removal. (A good, sharp drill will always start in& follow the location of the"dimple" you create.) Try to make the first mark very shallow (tap lightly) and eyeball it for true center on the broken stud/bolt. If it isn't quite centered, it is easy to "move" it by tilting the punch in the direction you need to go, and tapping some more. (Harder to do if the first spot is too deep.) Repeat this until the spot is of greater diameter than the drill size you intend to use (unless the broken stud face is relatively flat and perpendicular to the stud/bolt axis. One can grind/file the end flat IF the stud/bolt is not below flush) Then use a smaller "pilot" drill first and drill down thru the stud. Finish up with either a drill size that is recommended for the easy-out, or about [suP]1[/suP]/[suB]64[/suB]" (.015")dia. smaller than the minor diameter of the stud's tapped hole, if you intend to re-tap or just clean out debris. What material is left can easily be worked out with a suitable pick tool or scribe, and a needle-nose pliers. :waving: