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Read all the posts I could find on the GL1000 (as well as Randakks tips and the Clymer manual) and still have questions. So hoping someone out there has skills on the 1000 and time to share.

I am trying to get the 77 GW running for my brother-in-law after it sat for about 8 years. Some of the things I've done are timing belt change, new points, carb clean and rebuild, new starter (think I torched the old one while trying to get it started).

Now I can get it started but runs rough, pops and backfires quitea bit. Checked and rechecked everything I can think of, but I must be missing something big yet.

First question, when checking the vacuum on the intake runners, the dial gauge jumps wildly, from about 3 psi to about 15 psi. All four do the same, is this common? Will a malfunctioning air cutoff valve (newly replaced) do this?

Any and all ideas welcome.

totally frustrated here
 

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I wonder If the two o-rings on the air cut off set in properly? Im not sure but Randakk may have had a vaccum test for that air cut off?
 

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Ok that sounds a lot like some things I've seen in the past. First off did you make the valve clearance adjustments while doing your tuneup? I would... takes 15 minutes and makes sure your timing is set. Then I would synch the carbs.

If your needles are jumping that much you may want to check them with a different tool. Some gauges need aquarium valves added to them to calm them down so you can get a reading. detailed instruction are located here in another section. I had a set of gauges like that myself and I never could get them to give me accurate reading. I personally use mercury sticks and love them. I can synch my carbs in about 20 minutes and have a coffee break.

Also run some carb cleaner thru it and maybe add some seafoam or marvel mystery oil to the fuel. But not both at the same time.

Some things clear up with riding, so don't get discouraged if it takes a few miles for some of little problems to work themselves out. This bike sat for 8 yrs and needs some exercise to get it back into shape.

If you take care of the little things, then the big things don't happen too often.

Good luck and ride safe.
 

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Also as an after thought what have you done to these carbs? Is it possible that you have a bad O ring or seal? you may have to pull the carbs and replace the rubber parts. 8 yrs is a long time for rubber to last. I'd rebuild them if it were me. should cost around $50 and your labor. and then you'll know with confidence that your carbs are good to go for several riding seasons.
 

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When you replaced the points, did you re-time the bike? You don't mention this. Yes the vacuum guages will jump around as you describe. You will need some kind of air flow restrictors in the guage lines. Pinch the lines when testing and you will see what I mean. Some use aquarium flow restrictors in the lines. As to your carb rebuild, everything has to be absolutly perfect, not close but perfect. Float level is the most critical and hardest to get right. There are some passages that are difficult to get perfectly clean. Only you know how careful you were. Also the air cutoff valve, if defective, will only backfire when decelerating. Good luck!

Oops! Someone types faster than me.
 

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I'd be checking the points and timing, no oil residue in the points cover? Can you fire it up in the dark and look for spark jump. heck I rinsed off mine and didn't know that I had a plugged drain hole at the plugs, played hell with how it ran till I blew out the plug area with air. Good luck
 

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Thanks Treetrans,

I will recheck the two orings in the air cutoff value. I have to remove the cutoff assy from the top of the manifold in order to get the carbs in and out, so I could have bumped them on the last install.
I've read (nearly memorized by now) most of the 100 plus pages of Randakks tips and didn't see anything but will check his table of contents again.



Thanks Grayglennsr,

I checked the valve clearances back when I started the project, but it is one of the things I have not rechecked since I got it running. I'll verify that.

Sounds like the gauge I got (auto dial gauge) won't work for this app. I don't have a mercury gauge set, but suspect I'll have to get one before this is over.

The carb cleaner/sea foamis a good idea now that it runs long enough to get warmed up.



I did rebuild the carbs, spent about8 hours cleaning and adjusting as they were gummed a bit. All gaskets, o-rings, jets replaced and float level set. I was pretty careful to check everything twice. But I did not split the manifold.



Thanks Ding Dong,

Yes, I had adjusted the new points but after my orig post yesterday morning, I pulled the whole points assy out and replaced it with a nearly new assy I bought on ebay. During the process I discovered the mechanical spark advance was stuck. I had a new one so replaced that too.



I had tried something new, I pulled the timing belt covers ( to double check them again:?) put a timing light strobe on cyl #1 and scoped the index mark on the belts while running. I noticed two things, I had an occasional addl firing out of sequence, and was getting no spark advance when revving to about 3000. After a close look at the lobes on the point cam, there was some corrosion that might have caused some of the backfires. I am happy to report that most of the backfires have dissappeared now with the new assy, but still some pops. Planning on rechecking the timing again today.



I didn't know that the air cutoff would typically backfire when decelerating. I haven't been able to drive it yet so don't know how that will be.



Thanks Highcountry,

Good idea. Now with my new points assy, they are clean as a whistle. Firing it up in the dark is a good idea, that is how I found a stray arc on one of the coil wires under the air cleaner. Mice.......chewed on a wire.....arrrgh.



Thanks to everyone!!!!, got some good things to recheck and try today. Holding my breathe, maybe I can try to get around the block today.
 

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Update after two days of more checking. With the air restrictor on my gauge I was able to get an accurate reading on the vacuum but could not get it to idle at 1000, kept dying. Runs great at 2000 and above though. Opened up the points by .003 to .018 and made sure that there was no time at which both sets of points were closed at the same time (Randakks tip) --- still wouldn't idle.

Fiddled with carb synch by guessing until I could get it to idle at 1500, then started the synch, took a while but now it idles well.

Now my problem is a terrible lack of power when releasing the clutch in first gear. It stumbles, drops a couple of cylinders, knocks bad until rpm gets up to about 1800-2000 then the power comes on smooth. From then on it runs great on the road.

Any help, ideas out there?
 

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Fotoz On your carb rebuild their are short 2" vacuum hoses going from the plenim down to the carb attaching to a brass 90 degree fitting that just pulls out of the carb in that is a metered jet Randakk has a chapter on his video about filling it and re drilling it a specific diameter to help with a off idle stumble. Did you find it and was it open clear. Its hard to find if you don't know about it its threaded into the hose connection and important.
 

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Hi Treetrans,
Yes, I did see those slow air jets, and I did install new jets that came with my carb rebuild kits. But I don't remember if I blew pressured air up the hose to make sure it was clear though. I am thinking about drilling out the jets as Randakk mentions, but haven't found the correct size drill yet. Have you done it on yours?
 

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That fix was for off idle stumble so far my bike is dropping two cylinders and am working hard to fix that, It ran great after I just finished all the restore part and had no problems except for ruff idle which cyncing the carbs fixed, then the fuel pump began to leak replaced then it seemed coil was bad replaced and still dropping two it seems it was always the Dyna after thats fixed I will ride it some as I just bought it and restored it and evaluate any quirks and then deal with it. Do you turnoff the gas petcock each time you shut it off. they will leak threw and fill up a cylinder in minutes if a float needle is not perfect. and more often on the side stand if not on the center stand. And then it starts a chain of problems that would make it difficult to chase down the real problem. I have read where the aftermarket needle and seats don't seal up like OEM and can leak easily threw.
 

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Treetans, keep your idle up on starting off from a stop. These old girls don't like low rpm starts, you'll get clutch chatter and chain slap from the clutch chain.

Goldwings like rpm's so don't be afraid crack that throttle on takeoff. Redline on the 1100's is 8,000 and mine's seen it a lot of times.
 

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Hi Treetrans,
Sounds like you are in the same mode as I. I have been going through the bike just like a restore, that's for sure.
I do close the petcock valve when I shut it down, a habit I've had since my childhood Honda 90 days.
I've been sidetracked with other chores, but plan to drill out the jets today to see if it'll fix the off-idle deadspot. But this seems to be more severe than I ever remember on my own 79 GL1000 I had years back. It is like a couple of cylinders are just dropping out until 2000 rpm then kicks in like gang busters.
By the way, I have a used coil set left over from my rebuild if you need -cheap. Thanks treetrans and good luck with yours too.

Bagmaster, yes, I find it amazing that it has such a high redline for a four cyl. I use it some, but am so conditioned to my GL1500 that it feels uncomfortable. Thanks for the input.
Will let you know what happens after today.
 

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The slow air jets have been drilled out to a new size, #98 as recommended by Randakk. Bummer, still trouble starting from a stop, little or no improvement. So still searching for answers.I did pull the carbs out again and checked floats and bowls, all clean and working fine. Any ideas?
 

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grayglennsr wrote:
Also as an after thought what have you done to these carbs? Is it possible that you have a bad O ring or seal? you may have to pull the carbs and replace the rubber parts. 8 yrs is a long time for rubber to last. I'd rebuild them if it were me. should cost around $50 and your labor. and then you'll know with confidence that your carbs are good to go for several riding seasons.
Pardon me, but where did you see a rebuild"kit?' for "$50.00" for a gl1000?

I'm new in here too and that is the first i've read of that!!!!:cool:
 

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Saber Cycle out of MO sells kits for $16 each, so about 64 bucks plus air cutoff kit. Fast shipping and easy online ordering.

All rubber has been replaced and I've tried to be as carefull as possible when reassembling. That includes manifold orings as well. I've heard of an "ether test" to check for leaks, but don't know exactly what that is?
 

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with the bike running spray wd-40 on the and around the carbs if you hav a air leak the idle should inprove for a little..
 

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Fotoz4U wrote:
Saber Cycle out of MO sells kits for $16 each, so about 64 bucks plus air cutoff kit. Fast shipping and easy online ordering.

All rubber has been replaced and I've tried to be as carefull as possible when reassembling. That includes manifold orings as well. I've heard of an "ether test" to check for leaks, but don't know exactly what that is?
Fotoz, if you do a search for Saber Cycle on this forum you will discover many of us have had slow shipping and or wrong parts, combined with poor customer service. Flea bay has them cheaper than saber anyway.
 
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