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On an '83 GL1100 the turn signals only work sometimes, but other times not. What might cause that?
 

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Welcome to the forum!

This would be better posted in the technial forum but one of the mods will likely move it there.

For your problem more info would be helpful. You say they don't work sometimes but you're not saying specifically what doesn't work. When you turn them on do the bulbs front and back light up but don't flash or do they not come on at all or are they not cancelling properly or??

John
 

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When I got my bike, it had been sitting for a year or two. The flashers worked the first couple times I tried them, then intermittently. I replaced the flasher unit, found under the falsie on the left side. The replacement was bought at autozone for a couple of bucks. You only need two of three wires for it to work. First give us some more info as stated above to properly troubleshoot. Hopefully you have downloaded the manual at this point.
 

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I had my 1980 GL1100 cut out after the first few rides - turned out to be a loose electrical connector to the ignition switch. Best check and clean all the connectors - they can get corroded and the locking tabs get broken.
 

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I did get the manual. They haven't worked at all in a while. It's not the fuse being corroded, and I'd hoped. When the switch is activated, whichever side amber light up front goes out.
 

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Have you replaced the switch unit?
 

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I haven't replaced anything yet. I don't even know where to get parts. Do auto parts places get parts for motorcycles? How about an oil filter?
 

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if the light is going out when the turn signal is activated, it might be a wire connected wrong. I had mine apart and ended up getting some wire connecters mismatched and had the same symptoms.
 

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it is a ground problem in the fairing... does the back one light up but does not flash?????? if so your ground is bad in fairing.. had it happen... also if parking light goes out when you turn on that side signal, switch is working. parking light blinks off as brighter blinker flashes on... saves on some current draw.
 

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It is everything everyone is saying...at about 30 years of age, the bike is in its retirement stage with arthritis, bad heart and hardening of its arteries, but that does not mean it is the end of life for that poor bike....

....like anyone or anything that age it needs a good going over from wheel to wheel and from the roadway to the top of the windshield.

What that machine needs is a good dose of PM.

Preventive Maintenance.

In general all the electrical must be put back to the 80's, all the hydraulics, mechanical things, air holding elements, fuel holding and carrying all things need to be checked.

Old brittle wires, hoses, rubbers, adapters, tires, battery, light bulbs and every connector, switch, joint must be checked pulled apart to remove rust, green crap, oxidized everything.

The enemy is time, lack of use means more rust and oxidation can settle into the littlest joint and cause intermittent problems.

If you spend the time and go over the complete bike and make sure everything is cleaned, tightened, secure the condition of the bike will go back to the year it was built and a new 1100 was not full of these troublesome stops starts misfits, but it ran every time.

My 1980 Wing is at + 6 years with me. I bought, carted home, dismantled and rebuilt and while I rebuilt it; all the things I discovered that were wrong, because of the 8 PO's work, were corrected upon re-assembly. At least every other year I examine the electrics. The first time is the worst time, since there is no history. But you create a history as you examine that bike. I am going on a trip this Saturday and in preparation and a trial run this old bike is always a happy surprise as it always starts, idles, then runs, never over heats and the voltage is always what it should be.

PM is very tedious and a pain, but when done on a timely basis will keep the bike as young as the week it was assembled but even more important it will not let you down. Honda did a good job with these bikes as evidenced by many 1975 and on being on the road. With a bit of care these geriatric old timers can easily be brought back to a youthful pleasurable driving experience.

As an example in my case it took me about 120 hours to tear down and re-assemble the complete bike and make repairs. Two years later it took a Saturday afternoon to verify things and it takes about 4-5 hours annually to check and test things. Additional maintenance in oil changes and things breaking like clutch cable are of course added but the routine PM becomes less of a burden the more you get to know your wing.

Does this work add value to the bike? To a buyer I think not but to the owner the value of no break downs, no down time, no towing bills, just starting her up and mounting her and going for an uneventful ride...is priceless.
 

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ARKnapp wrote:
Does this work add value to the bike? To a buyer I think not but to the owner the value of no break downs, no down time, no towing bills, just starting her up and mounting her and going for an uneventful ride...is priceless.
+1
 

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So well said ARKnapp !

wish I had read your post couple of years ago when I was looking for an 1980 wing.. man..you are so right . I had to understand it the hard way,but today, 2 years , few thousand miles and many $$$ later :sadguy:I know and agree with every word you wrote



happy riding & keep on enjoing your oldie!



Saul
 

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nopeda wrote:
I haven't replaced anything yet. I don't even know where to get parts. Do auto parts places get parts for motorcycles? How about an oil filter?
Blinker units:
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/pa...jef?filterByKeyWord=blinker&fromString=search

If the flasher unit is bad, you can fit a round one in the square rubber holder.

Here is a cross ref for oil filters. Bring your old o-ring with you. A couple I have purchased had the wrong size o-ring.

1100 Oil Filter:
AC DELCO PF2170
CARQUEST 89940
FRAM CH6009
HONDA 15410426010
15412300024
15412300325
K&N KN401
PUROLATOR ML16809
STP SMO-09
WIX 24940
NAPA PS4940

A good practice with the electrics is to disconnect/ clean and reconnect each and every connector on the bike. Cleaning can be done with some brake cleaner (it evaporates very quickly) and I like to use a brass brush to scuff it up a bit. For the flat connectors, I use a small flat file, like a points file to get in and scratch it clean.

Regarding a good going over for the bike:
I like to attack the bike one system at a time.
Electrical- clean and solidify
Brakes- test flush and rebuild if necessary
Fluids/Lube- replace all fluids- flush radiator
Tires/Wheels/bearings replace if necessary

Parts can be gotten on Ebay and also check in the for sale section. Some are parting out bikes and may have what you need. Stay away from Sabrecycles online. That is strictly my opinion from bad past experience. You only need one bad experience with them.
 

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Replace the flasher unit before you chase other things. If it has an OEM unit, they were notorious for intermittent action. My '83 did the same thing 7 years ago when I bought it and it hasn't failed since I replaced the flasher unit. The green wire on the OEM isn't needed on an aftermarket flasher.

Hobie
 
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