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Hi, need some help please!



The turn signals on my bike quit working. They were working intermittently but just quit. Things I've checked so far; fuse is ok, bulbs ok, flasher ok.



The front running lights come on until I turn the switch to the left or right, then they go out.



Could the the switch be dirty or faulty? I'm not sure where to go next?



If the switch is bad, where can I find another OEM switch or is thereagood after market switch recommended. I prefer OEM. :(
 

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It sounds like you could have a dirty turn signal switch, I have seem alot of those get gummed up with grease and work intermittently or not at all.



If you need on , you can proably find a good one on Ebay or I belive you can still get the OEM one.
 

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Take the switch apart enough to expose the contacts and spray them with electrical contact cleaner before spending funds to replace it.
 

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I'm looking at the Interstate schematic diagram as I write this to try to help you out.

All tests should be with the ignition on (headlight lighted).

First off, does your horn work? Your horn uses the same fuse as the turn signals. If the horn works, then you know everything up to the fuse is OK. If it doesn't work, then you need to look at the fuse, or the fuse mounting block.

If the horn is working OK, the next thing to do is to check out the flasher. Turn the turn signals on (switch it to left or right) for this test. There are three wires going to the flasher: grey, green, and green with white stripe. There should be +12v at the green/white wire. An easy way to check this is if your brake light works - hit the rear brake pedal and see if your brake light lights up. If it does, then there should be +12v there. If not, then you've got a wiring problem.

Assuming your brake light lights up properly, then let's bypass the flasher to eliminate it as a source of the problem.

Remove the connector from the flasher relay, and insert a paperclip into the connector, so that it shorts out the grey and the green/white wire (NOT the green wire!).

Once the paperclip is inserted, try your turn signals again. If they come on when you switch either left or right, then the problem is a bad flasher. If they don't come on, then we've probably eliminated the flasher as a suspect. Remove the paperclip and replace the connector on the flasher relay.

Assuming the flasher is OK (turn signals did not come on when paperclip was inserted), it's time to check the bulbs. Pull the turn signals out. The right signal has a blue wire and a gree wire. The left signal has an orange wire and a green wire.

Quick note: On GL1100's, green wires are ALWAYS ground.

Put your voltmeter to check between the blue wire and a known ground, then switch your right turn signal on. You should see +12V. Do the same with the orange wire, then switch your left turn signal on. Again you should see +12V. If you do, then do it again, only use the green wire instead of a known ground - if you don't see +12V using the green wire, then the problem is with the ground (green wire). If you do see +12V both ways, then the problem is either the bulbs or the bulb sockets.

If you DON'T see +12V from either the orange or blue wires, then the problem is the turn switch itself, or wiring or connectors somewhere in between the flasher, and the bulb sockets. Being that BOTH died at the same time, I doubt the problem is wiring in between the switch and the bulb sockets. If THAT is the case, then you need to find the turn signal buzzer. It will have three wires on its connector: Green with white stripe, grey, and (what looks to me like) orange with yellow stripe. Check to see if there is +12V on the grey wire. If there is not +12V on the grey wire, then you've got a wiring harness problem somewhere (specifically with that grey wire) between the flasher relay and the turn switch.

If there IS +12V on the grey wire, then you've got a problem either with the turn switch itself, or in the connector that connects the turn switch harness to the main harness. In both cases, it is the grey wire that will be causing the problem.

That's about all I can deduce from the schematic - good luck with it, do let us know how you make out!
 

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:waving:Another possibily is a defective control unit which is aft of the flasher.
 

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83GoldWinger wrote:
:waving:Another possibily is a defective control unit which is aft of the flasher.
There is no control unit in the schematic - it goes directly from the flasher, to the switch, to the bulbs. It branches off to the buzzer and speed sensor as well after the switch, but the only thing they can do is fail shorted - in which case they would blow the fuse. If they fail open, the lights will still function.
 

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GSMacLean wrote:
83GoldWinger wrote:
:waving:Another possibily is a defective control unit which is aft of the flasher.
There is no control unit in the schematic - it goes directly from the flasher, to the switch, to the bulbs. It branches off to the buzzer and speed sensor as well after the switch, but the only thing they can do is fail shorted - in which case they would blow the fuse. If they fail open, the lights will still function.
:waving:I totally disagree with you as there is a control unit which is in the turn signal circuitry and is located immediately aftof the turn signal flasher. See image below which is from the Honda GoldWing 1980-1983 Service Manual. On the schematic I believe it's called a winker/turn signalcancelling unit which is on the '82-'83 GoldWings.
 

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Mine had the same symptoms and it was the flasher relay.
 

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It does have a "control unit" however it is connected only to the air pressure indicator and air pressure indicator switch - it has no interconnection with the turn signals. I don't even see the turn signal canceller on this schematic.

I'll have a look at the Aspencade and see if it's on there (I know my Aspencade has it).
 

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I had a look at the schematics inside the service manual for both the Aspencade and the Interstate - it includes quite a bit more than is shown in the colored schematic. It shows the "turn signal cancel unit" on both schematics. It is not the "Control Unit" you show in the diagram however.

The turn signal cancel unit is actually wired in parallel with the output of the flasher relay, along with the lights. So, like the buzzer, if it failed shorted, it would blow a fuse. If it failed open, the lights would operate normally. The only thing it can do to stop the lights from working is to trigger the solenoid inside the turn switch, which will move the turn signal switch to off, and thus turn the turn signals off. I don't think that is what is happening in this instance - he said the switch is not operating the lights at all. If it was the case, simply holding the turn switch on by hand would keep it flashing, regardless of what the canceller was trying to do.
 

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GSMacLean wrote:
It does have a "control unit" however it is connected only to the air pressure indicator and air pressure indicator switch - it has no interconnection with the turn signals. I don't even see the turn signal canceller on this schematic.

I'll have a look at the Aspencade and see if it's on there (I know my Aspencade has it).
:waving:On the '83 Interstate schematic it's called a "winker cancel unit". What air pressure indicator/air pressure indicator switch are you referring to on the '83 Interstate? The '83 Standard and Interstate do not have an air pressure indicator/air pressure indicatorswitch as the rear suspencion can be 0-57 psi. On the '83 Aspencade the range for the rear suspenion is 28-57 psi.

The image below shows that the turn signal wiring does go through the control unit on the '82-'83 Goldwings which are the only GL1100's with self cancelling turn signals.
 

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Yes, but that diagram only shows the solenoid and the takeoff from the bulbs that go to the "control unit" which in my schematic is called the "turn signal cancel unit" (would be nice if they could standardize on names). What your diagram doesn't show is the actual switch, which sends power directly to the bulbs, at which point the power is also taken and sent to the cancel unit. The cancel unit is in parallel with the bulbs, not in series - so there is no failure mode of the cancel unit that can make the bulbs stop functioning, without blowing a fuse.

You can see the whole circuit here.
 

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I tried to clean the contacts first by blowing the switch out with air and to my amazement the signals started to work! So I removed the three screws holding the switch together and cleaned the switch with a spray electrical contact cleaner. At that point they quit working again.
The signals do not come on at all again.

Seems to me there may be something loose in the switch.

I am thinking about taking the switch apart to see if there are any broken wires etc.

What do you all think about that. Am I going to cause more problems by doing this or does it sound like a good plan?

Thank you for all the info and thought you have put into this problem for me.
 

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By the way Andy I thought it was possibly the flasher relay also so I replaced that and it did not help. Wish that was all there was to it. I am not that lucky.:waving:
 

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i may be way off base here buthave you cheaked your ground conection? a bad ground can do a lot of funny things. JIM
 

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GSMacLean wrote:
Yes, but that diagram only shows the solenoid and the takeoff from the bulbs that go to the "control unit" which in my schematic is called the "turn signal cancel unit" (would be nice if they could standardize on names). What your diagram doesn't show is the actual switch, which sends power directly to the bulbs, at which point the power is also taken and sent to the cancel unit. The cancel unit is in parallel with the bulbs, not in series - so there is no failure mode of the cancel unit that can make the bulbs stop functioning, without blowing a fuse.

You can see the whole circuit here.
:waving:You're showing a schematic for an '82 Interstate which isn't effective for an '83 Interstate which "klden" has. The '83 does not have an air pressure warning light or an air pressure sensor. The '83 Standard and Interstate have an overdrive light where the air pressure warning lilghtwould be on the earlier GL1100's. I have the wiring diagrams for all models of the GL1100 in my 1980-1983 Honda GoldWing Service Manual.
 

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83GoldWinger wrote:
GSMacLean wrote:
Yes, but that diagram only shows the solenoid and the takeoff from the bulbs that go to the "control unit" which in my schematic is called the "turn signal cancel unit" (would be nice if they could standardize on names). What your diagram doesn't show is the actual switch, which sends power directly to the bulbs, at which point the power is also taken and sent to the cancel unit. The cancel unit is in parallel with the bulbs, not in series - so there is no failure mode of the cancel unit that can make the bulbs stop functioning, without blowing a fuse.

You can see the whole circuit here.
:waving:You're showing a schematic for an '82 Interstate which isn't effective for an '83 Interstate which "klden" has. The '83 does not have an air pressure warning light or an air pressure sensor. The '83 Standard and Interstate have an overdrive light where the air pressure warning lilghtwould be on the earlier GL1100's. I have the wiring diagrams for all models of the GL1100 in my 1980-1983 Honda GoldWing Service Manual.
The one I was showing was extracted from the same service manual. I was guessing at the year, as he never mentioned the year of his bike.

In any case, if you look at the 1983 schematic, which does show the canceller, again - the canceller is in parallel with the bulbs, so there is no way it can cause the signals to not function, without blowing fuses.
 

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mine was doing the same thing it wasnt the switch but the flasher relay honda wanted 50 bucks so i went to advanced auto cost me 3.99 for a car one i blew some fuses trying to find which way the wires went on it now works fine . i could have signals one minute and not the next but this fixed it
 

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:waving:Looking at his avatar, you can see the alloy wheels, fork brace, and redesigned engine guards which are exclusive to the '83 GoldWings. Also under topic "Turn Signals" it says '83 GoldWing Interstate. That's how I knew kleden has a 1983 Interstate.
 
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