twitchy in corners

598 Views 5 Replies 6 Participants Last post by FangGL1200, Jun 27, 2009

gronk99

Discussion Starter · Jun 26, 2009

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I've put a jack under eng and checked head, not notchy and slight resistance from side to side, can't feel any play when I pull out on wheel.
Should I take the fact that TRAC ihas been set on 4 and am still getting quite a bit of movement on braking as a sign that fork oil needs changing? Could this because of my handlingproblem?

Don't have a maint history from prev owner, so couldhave worn out oil.
Thinking I'll try to change oil wo/ pulling forks - how many Lbs am I looking at to push the fork caps back down on a GL1200I?

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DaveO430

· #2 · Jun 26, 2009

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Could be fork oil, I change mine annually. How is your tire pressure and have you checked the swing arm for movement?

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Bike...and Dennis

· #3 · Jun 26, 2009

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Hi Gronk,

There are bushings in the forks that seem to get ignored when doing seals. They are probably at fault.

The anti-dive is probably a different issue. It's most likely plugged up from dirty oil. Or your springs could be shot.

I think a fork rebuild is probably needed, including cleaning the TRAC chambers. It's not that big of a job if you have the tools and a friend to help hold things.

Beware pulling the topnut from the tubes. It can fly!

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SpiderBob

· #4 · Jun 27, 2009

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Another item forgotten when doing forks is wheel bearings and axle run-out. Two really simple things to check and re-grease at the same time. And not to be forgotten, why not do the speedometer cable and gear housing at the same time. Clean that old sticky grease out of there and put some fresh in the gear housing and oil the speedo cable.

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exavid

· #5 · Jun 27, 2009

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If your bike has OEM springs they're not too hard to push down, not real easy but doable. If it has Progressive springs then it's a lot harder. One thing that helps is to index your fork caps once the springs are out. Just find the place where the fork cap begins to engage the threads on the fork tube and mark it with something. That way you can turn it to that point before you start compressing the springs. A lot easier than having to turn the thing three quarters of the way 'round trying to get it to start. Be very careful those things are easy to cross thread. I wouldn't get too excited about diving under firm braking, the TRAC system is better than nothing but just a bit. I alway set mine full on and still get a bit of dive.

Twitchiness can also be caused by loose swing arm bearings, poor shocks, or a bad tire(s).

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FangGL1200

· #6 · Jun 27, 2009

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Did my last winter..They are notthat to bad to do..It does take some brute force to compress the spring and get the nut started..Give a hollar if you want a hand an a shop to do it in..I have all the tools to get the job do..

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