Unlinking the brakes
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I've thought about that, as far as using Jerry Palladino's "Ride Like A Pro" method of low speed maneuvering. www.ridelikeapro.com This requires using the rear brake along with the friction zone of the clutch to allow what I think are some impressive moves with a large bike. My 1100 does not have linked brakes, but at some point, I'll be looking for a 1500, and that does.
We all know the results of applying front brake with the wheel turned! I don't know just how hard the fronts are applied on the linked side, but it is a concern.
I would think one could use the "splitter" from an older bike (or maybe even from the rear of what you have?) and tie the fronts together. But would that create problems in the electronics of late model machines...I don't know.
I've thought about that, as far as using Jerry Palladino's "Ride Like A Pro" method of low speed maneuvering. www.ridelikeapro.com This requires using the rear brake along with the friction zone of the clutch to allow what I think are some impressive moves with a large bike. My 1100 does not have linked brakes, but at some point, I'll be looking for a 1500, and that does.
We all know the results of applying front brake with the wheel turned! I don't know just how hard the fronts are applied on the linked side, but it is a concern.
I would think one could use the "splitter" from an older bike (or maybe even from the rear of what you have?) and tie the fronts together. But would that create problems in the electronics of late model machines...I don't know.
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Interesting,
The linked brakes are a pain when doing U turns. I find this fairly easy on "unlinked bikes, balancing revs/clutch and holding back with the rear brake. On the 1500 though, as soon as I touch the rear brake I feel it's (Tucking in" as the front wheel stops and the bike tries to pivot around it.
The advantage of having them linked, is the bike stays level when you slow down- more reassuring for the passenger, though on normally braked bikes I compensate with a bit of rear brake anyway. Has anyone tried delinking-and does it help?...Steve
Interesting,
The linked brakes are a pain when doing U turns. I find this fairly easy on "unlinked bikes, balancing revs/clutch and holding back with the rear brake. On the 1500 though, as soon as I touch the rear brake I feel it's (Tucking in" as the front wheel stops and the bike tries to pivot around it.
The advantage of having them linked, is the bike stays level when you slow down- more reassuring for the passenger, though on normally braked bikes I compensate with a bit of rear brake anyway. Has anyone tried delinking-and does it help?...Steve
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i think you should get used to it.. they work just fine. for u turns i use front brake for most low speeds maneuvers and u turns
i think you should get used to it.. they work just fine. for u turns i use front brake for most low speeds maneuvers and u turns
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Hi,
I would think that you would have MC issues in the front as it would now have to activate 2 calipers instead of one. You may have to change that out. I don’t think that just an equalizer/splitter would do it.
Tim.
Hi,
I would think that you would have MC issues in the front as it would now have to activate 2 calipers instead of one. You may have to change that out. I don’t think that just an equalizer/splitter would do it.
Tim.
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Tim,
Yes, It wouldn't be easy. The rear master cylinder currently operates 2 calipers and would only need to operate 1, while the front master cylinder only operates one caliper as standard and would need to operate 2. A lot of people do the mod to Honda Blackbirds though I believe. Anyway, I'll just have to continue "paddling" it around I guess- though I've seen some impressive figure 8 turns on you tube...Off to practise now.............Steve
Tim,
Yes, It wouldn't be easy. The rear master cylinder currently operates 2 calipers and would only need to operate 1, while the front master cylinder only operates one caliper as standard and would need to operate 2. A lot of people do the mod to Honda Blackbirds though I believe. Anyway, I'll just have to continue "paddling" it around I guess- though I've seen some impressive figure 8 turns on you tube...Off to practise now.............Steve
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Hi,
I suppose that you could move the MC’s around with a little modification. Though driving would be tricky with having to kick the back brake “lever” with your ankle and push down the front brake “handle”.
It would be entertaining though. :cheeky1:
Tim.
Hi,
I suppose that you could move the MC’s around with a little modification. Though driving would be tricky with having to kick the back brake “lever” with your ankle and push down the front brake “handle”.
It would be entertaining though. :cheeky1:
Tim.
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Steve, get yourself to a super market car park, and practice those u turns, flintstoning does`nt look goodmate, :shock:I`ve only been riding 2 years and I can put the 1500 into full lock figure of 8s, U turns and circles, no trouble what soever, using the brake / clutch method, it does work, believe me. With only just learning to ride just over 2 years ago, this is the method that they teach riders nowerdays, when I first started to do u turns I was doing them too slow with the bike bolt upright, need to be at a quick walking pace so as to lean the bike in slightly, the more you practice the tighter the turns WILL get, and to look where you want to end up, not where you are. This is also the info I had from the forum members here, Good Luck. Art.
Steve, get yourself to a super market car park, and practice those u turns, flintstoning does`nt look goodmate, :shock:I`ve only been riding 2 years and I can put the 1500 into full lock figure of 8s, U turns and circles, no trouble what soever, using the brake / clutch method, it does work, believe me. With only just learning to ride just over 2 years ago, this is the method that they teach riders nowerdays, when I first started to do u turns I was doing them too slow with the bike bolt upright, need to be at a quick walking pace so as to lean the bike in slightly, the more you practice the tighter the turns WILL get, and to look where you want to end up, not where you are. This is also the info I had from the forum members here, Good Luck. Art.
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Cheers Art.
I'll start practising. Actually I'm not too bad. It's just that when I feel it tipping in then the temptation is to stop and put your foot down quick. What I should do is pick up the throttle a touch to lift her up. Sometimes I do that and sometimes I chicken out. I'll get there- eventually..........Steve
Cheers Art.
I'll start practising. Actually I'm not too bad. It's just that when I feel it tipping in then the temptation is to stop and put your foot down quick. What I should do is pick up the throttle a touch to lift her up. Sometimes I do that and sometimes I chicken out. I'll get there- eventually..........Steve
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`
I also prefer turning with the "power on/friction zone on the clutch" and using the rear brake pedal to modulate your speed.
A 1500 will turn on a dime once you prefect your technique doing it that way.
:walker:
`
I also prefer turning with the "power on/friction zone on the clutch" and using the rear brake pedal to modulate your speed.
A 1500 will turn on a dime once you prefect your technique doing it that way.
:walker:
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Actually Steve, you dont pick the throttle up when you feel yourself tipping in, the throttle should be at constant revs, say 2000,and using the clutchfriction zone gently squeezing and releasing the clutch to keep your speed up,
It realy is a great technique Steve, with practice you will put your bike into u turns and circles a lot quicker than you ever thought you would.
I still go along to ASDA carpark on a Sunday morning before it opens and practice, though its more fun now than practice,
Google " Ride Like A Pro" Steve, or You Tube, and absorb the info.
Art
Actually Steve, you dont pick the throttle up when you feel yourself tipping in, the throttle should be at constant revs, say 2000,and using the clutchfriction zone gently squeezing and releasing the clutch to keep your speed up,
It realy is a great technique Steve, with practice you will put your bike into u turns and circles a lot quicker than you ever thought you would.
I still go along to ASDA carpark on a Sunday morning before it opens and practice, though its more fun now than practice,
Google " Ride Like A Pro" Steve, or You Tube, and absorb the info.
Art
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Hi All,
This is my method of turning slow on my 1500 wing (1200's where the same)
Apply the front brake gently, pulse the foot brake as and when required.
Good clutch control is also required.
'Blippin' the throttle will actually make the bike stand up.
Be smooth & brave, no sudden Movements with the handle bars -
Using this method I can virtually stand still with both feet on the rests (pillion as well).
As the other have said, it just takes practice.
Stu.
I like the linked brakes, the only this I would like is more power to them.
I have steel braided pipes and sintered pads.
Servo next?
Hi All,
This is my method of turning slow on my 1500 wing (1200's where the same)
Apply the front brake gently, pulse the foot brake as and when required.
Good clutch control is also required.
'Blippin' the throttle will actually make the bike stand up.
Be smooth & brave, no sudden Movements with the handle bars -
Using this method I can virtually stand still with both feet on the rests (pillion as well).
As the other have said, it just takes practice.
Stu.
I like the linked brakes, the only this I would like is more power to them.
I have steel braided pipes and sintered pads.
Servo next?
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Actually it is possible and it's done quite often. But for trikes. Mine is split like the old style. The left front caliper is looped into the right front caliper using the hand brake.The access for the front out of the master is used for the second wheel in the rear. Foot master now only works rear two wheels. I suppose you could plug that port that went tothe front.That may be the difference right there. It all came in a kit with the right fittings and all. So yes, it can be done, just not sure if it would be advisable.
Actually it is possible and it's done quite often. But for trikes. Mine is split like the old style. The left front caliper is looped into the right front caliper using the hand brake.The access for the front out of the master is used for the second wheel in the rear. Foot master now only works rear two wheels. I suppose you could plug that port that went tothe front.That may be the difference right there. It all came in a kit with the right fittings and all. So yes, it can be done, just not sure if it would be advisable.
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Scooter 7 wrote:
:12red:
Dean
Scooter 7 wrote:
I watched the Ride like a pro V DVD , Jerry Palladino says in there that the linked brakes on Goldwings and BMWs works the same, they even show a goldwing doing the manuvers on his DVD. I have tried it and it works fine for me I can do a U turn on a small 2 lane road with no problem.
:12red:
Dean
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problem with doing stuff like changing brakes is the bike is then modified, you then have to tell the insurance and that then opens a c an of worms.
problem with doing stuff like changing brakes is the bike is then modified, you then have to tell the insurance and that then opens a c an of worms.
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on the 1500 the rear brake is on a splitter if memory serves me right its 70% to the rear 30% to the front on the slow speed turns you should use the rear brake only so the bike wont nose dive and drop you forward off your balance bring up the reves to about 1000 and feather the clutch to get a smooth run on the turn and dont look at the front of the bike look were you want to turn tothey will turn on a six pence or in the states on a dime
on the 1500 the rear brake is on a splitter if memory serves me right its 70% to the rear 30% to the front on the slow speed turns you should use the rear brake only so the bike wont nose dive and drop you forward off your balance bring up the reves to about 1000 and feather the clutch to get a smooth run on the turn and dont look at the front of the bike look were you want to turn tothey will turn on a six pence or in the states on a dime
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No need to spit the brake system, just forget that the front one is linked and you can ride the same way you would on an unlinked system. It takes a good bit of pressure on the rear brake to make much drag on the front wheel. I've had both the 1200 and 1500 'Wings with linked brakes and five different 1100s and can maneuver them slowly with no problems doing U-turns. I never really noticed any difference in handling the models with or without linked brakes. I did notice my 1100 Standard was the easiest one of the bunch for slow speed handling. Most likely due to a somewhat lower CG and lighter weight rather than a brake issue.
No need to spit the brake system, just forget that the front one is linked and you can ride the same way you would on an unlinked system. It takes a good bit of pressure on the rear brake to make much drag on the front wheel. I've had both the 1200 and 1500 'Wings with linked brakes and five different 1100s and can maneuver them slowly with no problems doing U-turns. I never really noticed any difference in handling the models with or without linked brakes. I did notice my 1100 Standard was the easiest one of the bunch for slow speed handling. Most likely due to a somewhat lower CG and lighter weight rather than a brake issue.
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