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Guys,

God as my witness on this, after I changed my oil on my 1980 GL1100 to 4 Qts of Delo 15w40, (.6 parts of a Qt. Over of the recommended level), My neutral light started staying on in all gears, and brighter in neutral.

I changed back to Mobile1, 10W40, with the correct amount 3.4 Qts, and it started intermittently staying off. On my last 2 trips, it has stayed off completely, except when I put it in neutral! I may have stumbeled on to something. Mabye it was not clogged up as bad. I do not know. I just know it is working like it's supposed to right now. Even on the center stand. I have not added any seafoam either! It could be possible that the thicker oil, and higher oil level was not completely flushing all the way down to theneutral light and keeping it clogged. I know my oil pump is working ok, because after I had changed it back to the 10w40, and checked the level on my dipstick, roughly 50% was running through the engine atthe time. I never seen any fluctuation, but Inever reved it up because I was lying down.

If your neutral light is staying on, make sure you have the correct weight and correct amount of oil in your Wing, and give it a try. It may work for you also. It would definately be worth a try.

Good Luck,

Hope it works for you,

Nightrider1
 

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thanks for the info. my neutral light sometimes wont cone on but i just have to push the shift lever up and down and it will light. neverturned on in any gear. just once went off when i reved t 7000 rpm with no load. touched the lever again and it came on. o.o weirdooo running 20w50 castrol right now.
 

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William,

Cool. Be careful though. You should never rev your engine that high when sitting and standing just in neutral. You can do some serious engine damage.

Good Luck,

Merry Christmas,

Nightrider1
 

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William_86 wrote:
thanks for the info. my neutral light sometimes wont cone on but i just have to push the shift lever up and down and it will light. neverturned on in any gear. just once went off when i reved t 7000 rpm with no load. touched the lever again and it came on. o.o weirdooo running 20w50 castrol right now.
Sounds like either your neutral switch is going bad or it may have been damaged when the front cover was removed or replaced at some time. If the roll pin isn't seated in the yoke or the pin is broken the switch is going to be pretty iffy. I think it's most likely that your switch contacts are pretty well worn.
 

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yea i think so. its been like that since i got the bike, i mean it haven't went worse. and doesn't bother me cuz its like 1 of 10 times when i need to tap the lever to get the light on
 

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16 Bikes! Wow. i thought I was doing goodby having my 80! Do you think the light may possibly be blown? Or posssibly have the same problem I was having?
Thanks,
Nightrider1
 

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12/30/08 Update On NEUTRAL LIGHT....

A Beautiful day in Alabama Today, so I went out for another 1.5 hour ride. So far, My Neutral Light is working like it should! What I done above is working!!!

It Is still working like it should, so apparently having even .6 qts of too much oil, and the wrong grade oil CAN keep your NEUTRAL LIGHT on when changing gears riding, and your NEUTRAL LIGHT WILL STAY ON if you have the wrong grade oil or too much oil in your Wing!!!
Hope this helps someone.


Nightrider1
 

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I do believe my diagnosis is correct. It started after I put in the Chevron Delo 15W40, and 4 qts instead of 3.4, which is called for, and after I rode to NASSIR1, and got back home, thats when it interrmittently started coming on.
After I changed my oil to the Mobile1 10W40 at the correct 3.4 Qts called for, it started interrmittently going off, and now, it is staying off, except when I put it in neutral.
After I changed the oil with the correct level, I started my Wing, and unscrewed the dipstick, wiped it off, laid the dipstick on the threads, pulled it off and checked the level while the Wing was running, and 50% of the oil was circulating at every momement, appartntly "flushing" the neutral light.
I do believe now using the wrong weight oil, and a little too much, can cause the Neutral light to come on in all gears, and stay brighter in Neutral, because first, the oil is thicker, and deeper, and not letting it properly "flush" the neutral light.
Also, On the new wings, the oil pump is much stronger, and can possibly handle the 15W40, but I am going to stay with the Mobile1 10w40.

Nightrider1
 

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i have a friend who filled 5 quarters on his 1100 and had no problems with the neutral light. he used cheapest oil lol. i think you have something wrong in ur bike. the correct oil fixes it but its still not good. right now im running about 3.8 quarters on my 1200. filling and checking the dipstick untill i had the right ammount. no problems with the neutral light other than my "normal" switch issue.
 

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16 bikes you say then why you worried about a netural switch just ride one of the other's.

and while your at it drop in your local bike shop and pick yourself up a new netural switch :)

depresssed and bored!
 

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netural light got nothing to do with what oil you have in the motor!

if it is on while in gear it's shot buy a new one!
 

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my problem is i'm changing motor's i want to be sure the netural switch will work with my everluvin 80,
at least it's paid for :(
 

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ob1quixote wrote:
I have 16 bikes, only 2 have a neutral light that works. The rest didnt come with one.
I have three Goldwings (1976, 1982, 1993)and all 3 neutral switches work! Looks like I have a lot better luck than you. In fact thinking back on it I don't remember any of the bikes I've ever had that were equipped with neutral lights that didn't work. You must be cursed.:bat:
 

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The other bikes are not equipped with neutral indicators!
That is why I wrote "The rest didnt come with one"...

The moral of this story is; It is quite possible to ride a motorcycle that doesnt indicate when you are in neutral.

My suggestion; disconnect the indicator light and ride on. If the switch is in fact bad, you arent going to like the costs to repair it.
 

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OB1
Good Point! I am suprised by what I done and it is still working properly! It stayed on for quite a while, and got brighter in neutrel, nut seems to be working normaly now.
Bightrider1
 

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Still working after what I first originally done. I stand correct. It could be that my light had a little carbon on it, and it was not circulating fast enough with the thicker oil, but works ok now. I'd at least try this first. Too much oil/Wrong weight also could possible cause the problem. 3.8 Gts sounds correct for a gl1200. It only takes 3.4 Qts on an 80 Gl1100. Clymer manual is very wrong.
Nightrider1
 
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