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UPDATED INFO How I did it - Poorboy Conversion for 82 GL1100

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This is not originally my idea, I have seen Alternators grafted onto many different vehicles over the years.

I was not happy with the limited electrical power of the stock charging system of my 82 GL1100 Aspencade. When I realized the limitations of the GL1100 charging system I went looking for ideas. I did a little searching of the internet for info, I found several references to the “poorboy” kit. I wanted to know what it looked like so that I might be able to build my own. At the time I just gathered the info I needed to build what I thought might work without keeping track of where I got the info or who’s idea it was. After all I was only going to build the one for myself.
(edited)Don “Poorboy” Pigott came up with a kit that fit the GL1200 , this kit does not work with the GL1100. Some of the info I got was from Dan Filipi over at Naked Goldwings.com , who did this to his 83 GL1100. My thanks go out to these two men for their pioneering efforts.


It took me many hours to come up with solutions to MANY little issues. If you do this conversion yourself,even following my method you will see what I mean. This is a guide to do it yourself NOT a guaranteed Step by Step (insert legal disclaimer here).



Is it worth it? You bet it is ,I have more electrical power than I can use now. Like running the heated vest,grips,stereo,highbeam headlight,two 50 watt driving lights,two 55 watt ditch lights,cig lighter,trailer with electric cooler ALL AT THE SAME TIME!!!!

This conversion is designed to use a specific alternator,others may work. I found mine at the auto wreckers after opening several hundred hoods. The winner is a Nippondenso unit from a 1988 Pontiac Firefly Turbo 1.0 liter .



It measures 130mm or 5-1/8" from front of pulley to the rear of the unit and100mm or 4" in diameter. On the bottom of the unit the rear mounting foot is a stamped steel unit that can easily be unbolted and discarded.



No cutting required like the Geo Metro Alternator. I paid $25 and had a shop rebuild it forabout $100 he even painted it satin black before assembling it ,cheaper than one from the auto parts store.



Step one: strip the bike to this level



Engine Auto part Automotive engine part Fuel line Vehicle






Pull the timing covers off and remove the crank bolt.
Grind the grade stamp off the head of the bolt.
Chuck the crank bolt in a 1/2" drill press,spin it fast to find the center by holding a 1/8" drill bit.
Your not trying to drill the bolt yet just make a mark so you can turn it overand center punch the mark.
Now use a 1/4" bit and drill the center punch mark about 3/4" deep.Make sure the bolt is square and plumb to the bit .
Reinstall the crank bolt,reinstall the timing covers with rubber gaskets,but make a notch in the rubber where it passes over the crank bolt.
This is where you will put the pilot bit of the hole saw in the next step,you may have to remove a little of the aluminum as well.The pilot bit needs to turn freely in the hole you drilled in the end of the crank bolt and NOT catch on the timing covers at all.They will shift if it catches(ask me how I know)




Auto part






Use a 1 3/8" bimetal hole saw to cut a hole in the timing covers,medium speed light pressure works for me.use cutting fluid if you have it.





Auto part Engine Motor vehicle Vehicle Fuel line






showing the 1-3/8" hole for the new pulley perfectly centered over the end of the crank.

Notice the rubber gasket is split and pulled back out of the way for now.

That should be enough work to reward your self with a nice frosty beverage.

Now remove the covers and CLEAN up the mess you made. Metal chips (even aluminum)aren't good for the belts.Remove the drilled crank bolt and save it for when you help your buddy do his conversion.
You will need to get a longer bolt to hold the new pulley .Same thread pitch but 55mm or 60mm long. I got mine free from the local Honda dealer.
I was going to use the following drawing to have one made, but my machinist was too busy and I couldnt wait .

Text Diagram Font Line Parallel

I used a 2" pulley from another scrap alternator and bushed the center hole down to fit the 12mm X 60mm bolt.giving me a 1 to 1 drive ratio .
I would have prefered to use a 3-1/2" drive pulley but couldnt find one in time. 1 to 1 works fine but doesnt charge well under 1200RPM. I get 13.5 volts at 1300RPM.

Auto part Wheel Machine tool Automotive wheel system Rim




Here's how mine looks installed, hole in timing cover is 1.375",spacer behind pulley is 1.360"diameter.
Nice close fit to help keep the road crap out.I opened my timing covers the other day to checkfor debris,Im happy to say that after 3500km./2300miles everything is clean as a whistle in there.



Now thepart that took me the longest to get just right. when you strip the bike down to start this build you will come across the top motor mounts behind the tin heat shield in front of the carbs .
You want the left one to use as a pattern,dont forget to make the "dowels" in the new piece. Materials list: about 8 inches of 3 X 1/4 inch flat bar stock about 2 inches of 9/16 inch tube for dowels. I used a Zip disc to cut mine out





Here's the pattern











Drawing






That's 5/8" up and 1-3/8" over.





time for a frosty beverage here





now its time to fit things up and butcher the tin.

New motor mount first then the heat shield tin.

Auto part


For the pivot bolt I used a 10mm X about 3-1/2". 3/8 will work but the 10mm bolt is a better fit. Iused the pivot bolt from the car I took the alternator from.
Weld bolt head to new bracket,use a spacer and nut to pull the bolt tight and square to the bracket once you establish the proper length bolt. Do not use "Allthread" rod except for the mock up stage.
Adjust spacer length so that crank pulley and Alternator pulley are perfectly in line





Auto part Automotive engine part Engine






another view showing clearance to the carbs





Engine Auto part Fuel line Vehicle Automotive engine part











time to butcher the tin,go slow and take little bits.The alternator needs to move a fair bit so have your belt handy,I used a Dayco Polycog #5030280 . Cut just enough tin away to allow the belt to be rolled onto the pulley.Mine could have been cut less

























Dont forget to unplug the voltage regulator,this can be plugged back in to use the stock system in case of an Alternator failure/belt breakage in the middle of nowhere.





Another frosty beverage perhaps?





More tin to cut













The fan shroud needs to be trimmed. To position the rad properly I spaced the bottom out 3/4".Longer bolts needed here.Use the same rad hose but rotate it slightly to get the best fit,leave hoses off for now.











Now the part that takes a bit of fiddling...........





Modifying the fan motor support requires removing the rad andfan blade and fanmotor several times next photo shows the angle bracket I welded in after cutting out the support at the 8 o'clock position.Not the new bracket fits behind the new belt and uses the stock mounting bolt holes.











nextbit of butchering......





I had to trim theleading edge of the fan itself a little the next photo shows how much I removed to clear the new belt. I cut them off using tin snips and smoothed them with sand paper.











there seems to be no adverse effectson the ability of the fan to cool the engine. last bit of butchering to do..... The lower fairing mounts need to be cut like this and then reversed left for right because you have moved the rad bottom out 3/4". This mod solves that problem.











trim them both to look like the one on the right of the photo.File smooth and paint black.





installed they should look like this











And this







Once you put it all back together you will notice that you dont have to modify the plastic at all.It does touch the alternator but only just.





Wiring is simple There are only 2 wires I used,heavyguage from alternator output to inline blade type fuseholder and then to battery positive. I have a 40 amp fuse in mine so far it hasnt ever blown. Of the 2 wires coming out of the green plug in on the back of the alternator I used the one marked " I " or " IGN " to the ACC terminal on the fuse panel. Check your work and fire it up . You should have 13.5 volts just above idle and 14.5 above 2500RPM You now have 55amps of power to run LOTS of stuff.





Feel free to use this info for yourself or to help out a friend.

If you make some money off of it dont forget where you learned it from and make a donation to this forum.

If you make a lot of money find me.....

Enjoy, Todd

Any questions?

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Well Mr. RoadRogue, I have had not one problem with my alt. Conversion, I rode to Kansas City from San Antonio a few times now and it has done just perfectly...I must have done something right..This post has been up for a long time and it's a good one...I did it both ways, I used a homemade pulley and I had a pulley made from a machine shop,, they both worked just fine... Todd, thanks again man....
81 interstate poor power

wanted to do this, I am not really up on tear downs, where could I even think of a pulley for crank?? would have no idea to where. There is no kit anywhere to do this, as of yet? bracket of 3/16 metal confusing, as next pic does not show like in drawing. Hub I guess is my biggest fear, where , what to look for ... thanks craig , minneapolis
wanted to do this, I am not really up on tear downs, where could I even think of a pulley for crank?? would have no idea to where. There is no kit anywhere to do this, as of yet? bracket of 3/16 metal confusing, as next pic does not show like in drawing. Hub I guess is my biggest fear, where , what to look for ... thanks craig , minneapolis
There is a guy that is making the complete kit. He is selling them on EBay. I think that it is called the poor boy conversion.
wanted to do this, I am not really up on tear downs, where could I even think of a pulley for crank?? would have no idea to where. There is no kit anywhere to do this, as of yet? bracket of 3/16 metal confusing, as next pic does not show like in drawing. Hub I guess is my biggest fear, where , what to look for ... thanks craig , minneapolis


RacerX posted his own conversion in this thread back around (approx) page 10-20.

I also posted my own shop built conversion starting at page 16 to 18.

You might take a look. I posted pictures with part #'s of the pulley and everything i used.It does take some work,but i only had about 200 dollars in the whole project.The prices have since risen a BUNCH.The alt alone is nearly double.
Here is a complete kit that is being sold on fleabay.Not Tooooo bad of a price really,since it is all complete with brackets.Still work to do on the bike to install though.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/honda-gold-...Parts_Accessories&hash=item35cf26a3f9&vxp=mtr
I installed the poorboy kit a year and 5000 miles ago, havent had an issue yet.
I just saw a sale that had the brackets plus the pulley for $300. You will still need to buy the alternator and the wires to go to the battery. That stuff you can get for under $100 I would think.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/honda-gl120...8643&rk=1&rkt=4&sd=231108682745&#ht_539wt_761
Ridiculous price...
Ridiculous price...
I agree but if the guys do not have the resources to make these things themselves what else is their options?
I LIKE the way you work - and think......"butcher some sheet metal & grab another frosty beverage"..... Oh HE%% YES !......FredT
I LIKE the way you work - and think......"butcher some sheet metal & grab another frosty beverage"..... Oh HE%% YES !......FredT

That's what i do..did.lol
It's not that hard.Here's the conversion i did.It starts on page 17 and goes on to pg18 and 19 and i give an update on performance on pg 20 It shows every item used to complete a poorboy alt conversion, with pictures.I have since put over 10K miles on the 1200 and i honestly have not had to touch it for any reason at all.Not even tighten the belt...nothing! it is waaaay better then the stator was.Starts without a grunt now.

http://www.goldwingfacts.com/forums...ow-i-did-poorboy-conversion-82-gl1100-17.html
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If you do the conversion. consider adding this to your belt covers . I went to remove my covers and found I could not-because the pulley is in the way of getting the bolt out.

The following was from another forum and produced by "Little Beaver"

..What I did was I dreamed up another way of fastening the inner mounting bolt for the timing belt covers...I basically just moved the bolt hole over 1" from the existing location, on the inside where the bolt normally goes I made a mounting bar or a piece of flat stock with a hole for a 6mm bolt to go straight thru to fasten it and 1" down is another hole drilled and tapped to recieve the original stock bolt..I just relocated the stupid thing is what I'm trying to say here. It works really nicely..So here are some photograph's for you guy's...







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The conversion is one of two best things I have done to my gl1100. The other best was to put the C-5 ignition on my ride.
I am doing the same conversion om my 83 wing and i found a good drive pulley from a 83 ford alternator and cut the rear pulley groove off in a lathe and square the rear lip up to get a close fit to the timing covers.i`m using a alternator off a 88 chevy sprint it has a v-belt and i found doing the mod`s was quite easy to do thanks for all the info and pic`s. and the ford pulley is the perfect length and it takes a 1/2 in piece of pipe for a shim for the bolt and it`s a tight fit on the bolt and the pulley
I finished rebuilding/replacing front to back and went for a test ride. I didn't have to do the stator as everything checked out good while I was cleaning up its wiring. I got 60 miles down the road thinking how great it was performing and how lucky I was I didn't have to replace the stator. Then it happened: it started bogging down as if it was starving for gas or losing spark on half the cylinders. Then I heard Jabba's laugh.
The last 30 miles home it ran good at times with plenty power then would bog down, losing power. Got home pulled the panel off the battery and checked voltage at battery. 12.6 at idle, 13 at 2500 and above. Well there ya go. It measured 12.6 and 14.2 when I had redone the stator wires, solid, each time I revved. Now it won't go any higher than 13.

All connections are good, rectifier,/regulator good, not going farther than that with troubleshooting. I'm going to just go ahead and do the conversion. I got the rest of the parts locally saving about $200. I can do the alternator alterations myself. Parts on the way. Gonna replace the water pump also while I'm at it. Can't do much riding now anyway thanks to this frigid weather.
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Glad I decided to replace the water pump too. When I took it out and turned it, it felt as though there was sand inside it, no smooth movement but grav-elly.

What a mess with removing all the gasket material and what seems like eons of gunk built up. Taking my time getting it right so I can move on with the alternator install.

I got the support cut off and the upper mount hand tight and when I finish with the water pump I'll move on.

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Yeap ...cleaning all the gunk off is the hard part.
Putting goodies on afterward makes the cleaning chore much more bearable.
I'm not one for bling but am one for cleanliness.
...hard to spot seepage under crud.

Will be interesting to see yours when done.
found a good driv?pulley from a 83 ford alternator and cut the rear pulley groove off in a lathe and square the rear lip up to get a close fit to the timing covers
got more info on that pulley/alt combo? car model/engine fitting?

popular or generic pulleys can often be sourced at outfits like doorman,

the ford pulley is the perfect length and it takes a 1/2 in piece of pipe for a shim for the bolt and it`s a tight fit on the bolt and the pulley
got a source or part # for that 1/2" pipe?
the pulley link here is not working for me
http://www.goldwingfacts.com/forums/1583319-post168.html

is this the one?
http://pitstopusa.com/i-14482472-krc-alternator-pulley-denso-delco-3-rib-serpentine-3-50.html

That's what i do..did.lol
It's not that hard.Here's the conversion i did.It starts on page 17 and goes on to pg18 and 19 and i give an update on performance on pg 20 It shows every item used to complete a poorboy alt conversion, with pictures.I have since put over 10K miles on the 1200 and i honestly have not had to touch it for any reason at all.Not even tighten the belt...nothing! it is waaaay better then the stator was.Starts without a grunt now.

http://www.goldwingfacts.com/forums...ow-i-did-poorboy-conversion-82-gl1100-17.html
Hi all,
I found this alternator while searching online tonight, NEW CHEVY MINI ALTERNATOR DENSO STREET ROD RACE 93MM 60AMP 3-WIRE. I know others have found similar, but this one is 60 amps, not 35 like most others I've seen and its 1 or 3 wire. Anyway, the listing is on eBay, sold by Rareelectrical. I am looking to use this when I do my conversion.

BTW, RoadRogue, nice pipe clamp adapted for top bracket/adjuster.
I love it!
Alan
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Glad I decided to replace the water pump too. When I took it out and turned it, it felt as though there was sand inside it, no smooth movement but grav-elly.

What a mess with removing all the gasket material and what seems like eons of gunk built up. Taking my time getting it right so I can move on with the alternator install.

I got the support cut off and the upper mount hand tight and when I finish with the water pump I'll move on.
Some pics as I'm waiting on parts to complete water pump. The before pic and a couple of the upper mount. I had to notch it in as it rocked back and forth over the coaming.

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