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Will this work the same for the 1200? Thanks
 

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dan filipi wrote:
If you make a lot of money find me.....
Yeah, and don't forget who you got the 4" pulley specs from if you use them.
of course , I did say in the begining that I would be happy to give credit where credit was due.
 

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Psalmist wrote:
Will this work the same for the 1200? Thanks
Donald J(Poorboy) Pigott makes and sells a kit for the 1200. I understood his kit would not fit the 1100 so I made my own based on his idea to fit the 1100.With a few modifications of my own,The basics are the same but the measurments may be different.



heresDonsWebpage http://home.comcast.net/~rkekeis/Alternator/alternator.htm

hope this helps
 

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..I believe this will help when you go to get your belt, It's a belt for a 1986-1989 Acura Integra,a 4 cly. 1.6 FI, belt is 28" and a three rib.. belt number again is #5030280....Todd please do a cross ref. and confirm...I think I did my homework right..
 

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Very Good Job RRouge, would it be possible to take a few more snap shops where the new alternator is bolted up to the frame, so we can picture as how thealternator mount is used? In all the pictorials there is none shown and would be of great help!!! :claps:Again Great Job, Bob EDIT:shock:,...... After going back and reading the post several times,:readit: I finally got through how the brackets are attached!!!!:laughing: :waving:
 

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Final pictures too all back together would be good and update on its performance
 

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I have a question about the spacer at the crank, tell me more about where you got that from, I'm leaning more and more towards this conversion I declare...
 

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Its a little too close to Christmas to start tearing the bike apart just yet. Have no fear though guys I will be doing just that this winter. The car alternator has been running flawlessly since I installed it with only one belt tightening. I have 40,000 km on it, it is time to open it up and see what the insides of my creation look like. I will post pics of what I find and detail pics as requested.
 

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The alternator I used is 55amps, thats the same as750 watts or 2 1/2 times the stock output. More power than I have been able to use up so far.



The Alternator taken from the car in the wrecking yard issmaller than the one you will get from the auto parts store. The one from the store will fit the car but it is bigger. If the one you choose doesnt have a removable rear foot then it isnt the one I used.



I will do an update on the how to in the new year with some better pics and maybe even tell you about some of the other mods I have done for my comfort or convienience.



Ride safe, Todd
 

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littlebeaver wrote:
I have a question about the spacer at the crank, tell me more about where you got that from, I'm leaning more and more towards this conversion I declare...
Hi there Martin,

the spacer on the crank I made myself to get me by until my machinist could fit me in. I made it from a piece of 1" thick aluminum plate using my drill press, a belt sander and a few other "Mac Gyver" tricks. It is straight and true but not the final version.



I plan on using the drawing to have one turned on the lathe. The pulley drawing came from Joe Wiggins, my apologies for not giving credit when I wrote this article in the first place. I didnt know who made the drawing at the time, it was dan filipiwho set me straight on where it came from. thanx Dan and sorry it took this long to give credit where credit is due :bow:
 

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badorderbob
Is that like Wrong way Ron?
 

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[align=center]UPDATE after two years in use[/align]

[align=center][/align]

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I have recieved a number of requests for pictures and/or clarification on some of the details of my version of this conversion. I have been using this set up for two full riding seasons,well over 30,000 miles virtually trouble free. The only thing I have had to do was tension the belt after it stretched a bit in the begining and I changed the blade type fuse for a 50amp circuit breaker.



When I pull the trailer for camping there is a full sized deep cycle battery in there, I use it to power various items around camp like area lights ,pump for the air mattress, 12volt water pump,and 12volt cooler among other items for my comfort.



In the morning when I hit the road again the alternator recharges the deep cycle battery as I head down the highway. This is why I put the 50 amp circuit breaker in the charge line instead of the blade type fuse, better connection and if it does "blow" because of load demand to recharge the big battery it will just reset it self and continue charging as needed ( i saw it do this once in two years, it was a long night in camp). The rest of the bike is still protected by a 30 amp blade fuse at the starter solinoid (sp)





Here are a few pics with a brief description , hope this answers some of the questions.




This pic shows just how much /how little of the alternator shows after the lower fairing is reassembled.Those three holes in the tin lower cowl are mount holes for my cup holder.

The upper fairing is off for other work I am doing right now.






same description ,different angle (sorry ,turn head sideways)






Better pic of how the new motor/alternator mount fits together






Mount and tin heat shield together prior to installation






Heat shield and mounts bolted up (turn your head sideways)








Alternator mounted showing tensioner adjustment at top of pic.






details of my crank pulley, version 2 will have a 3 inch pulley to help with the idle speed charging, Why 3 inch and not 4 inch? In an effort to keep the rad in as close as possible the clearance of my crank pulley to the timing cover is very tight as seen below.................. (again turn head sideways)






From crank bolt center to the edge of thehead of this bolt is just over 3inches

As you can see if I use a 4 inch pulley it will interfere with the inner bolt holding the timing cover on, unless you either omit this bolt or modify it or make room behind the larger pulley. I prefer to use a 3 inch pulley ,that way I can still use all the timing cover bolts and dont have to remove the new crank pulley to service/change the timing belts.

With the 2inch pulley or 1:1 ratio it charges just above idle (1300+ rpm) I believe that the new 1.5:1 ratio will allow it to charge at idle. (950rpmx1.5=1425rpm)












This is what the alternator from the 1988 Pontiac Firefly 1.0liter turbo looked like when I pulled it from the car,except it wasnt clean and it wasnt painted black. See the unpainted rear foot? Its just stamped steel and it unbolts like this..............






This way there is no cutting and grinding needed. I have tried to get a new one from the auto parts store with no luck. The one they all (Napa, Lordco and Canadian Tire, hey its a small town) put on the counter looks just like the one for the Geo Metro,which is just a little bigger and has the rear foot molded in the the rest of the body. Funny little side note, I once pulled a guy over that was driving a Sprint/Firefly just so I could look under his hood at his alternator to make sure the one I got wasnt just grafted in there . He was a little surprised at my request but let me look any way. sure enough it was the same alternator that I pulled from the wrecking yard. Of course I had to explain why I wanted to look at his "hotrod" engine. They are out there you just have to dig a little.



I suppose you could use whatever alternator you want , but the measurements I have provided work for this alternator (may work for others, I dont know)



I hope this clears up any grey areas, if you need more info or pics just PM me. I am on line most every evening and I always check in on this site.



Ride safe,Todd
 

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thanks for the up date. looks like a good winter thing. heated gear , lights , and so forth.
 

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Thanks Todd. That helps alot.
 
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