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Todd, Bless you my child:bow:!!!! Finally the long await update:congrats:has arrived:)!! Thanks somuch for the extended "Update Pictures"!!!! I thought you made the tensioner like that but wasn't quite sure,..:thumbsup:!I haven't received my Ultra Mini yet,... but it looks like I will have to fab a rear "foot" bracket tho. Thanks and you did a Great job:applause:!!!! Stu, RR term,....I'll let you think about it awhile:axeman::ROFL:,.... Later Bob
 

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Still Learning
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Putting in the wrong order?
Someone give you that in the service?
 

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Alaskan Explorer on a Valk
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Thank you for the pics. it really helps.



Finally found the firefly alternator.
14684N (1-1228-01ND-2)
replaces: DENSO 100211-141 , 100211-155 , 100211-407
Lester No 14684

These were the numbers I used to find the alternator with the foot bolted on.

Found on the net I paid $55.00 but also found them as high as $150.00

Now all I need to find is the plug to fit it.


http://www.dsusaltd.com/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=177&category_id=2&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=2



http://store.alternatorparts.com/search.aspx?find=14684n




The $55.00 alternator does NOT have a removable foot.
Just rec'd it today (Feb 27 2012). Trying to figure out how to post pics of it.
Also trying to find the pics on my puter after downloading them from the camera.

If and when I figure it out I will post them.



Hope this helps
 

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Wilcoy02 wrote:
finally found the firefly alternator.
14684N (1-1228-01ND-2)
replaces: DENSO 100211-141 , 100211-155 , 100211-407
Lester No 14684

These were the numbers I used to find the alternator with the foot bolted on.

Found on the net I paid $55.00 but also found them as high as $150.00

Now all I need to find is the plug to fit it.

Hope this helps
Sir do you remember the site, can you please locate it [the site], copy and paste it here, thanks man..that would be so nice of you..easy on everyone else too..
 

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Thank you very much for this fantastic write-up, and thanks to Bob for bumping the thread!

I'm ecstatic to get my 1100A running so this vet can get back up on his horse. :july4thflag:
 

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Quick question... has anyone tried to install the alternator with the foot that can't be removed? The one with the removable foot *is* more expensive, but many of those that have that option only put out 45 amps as opposed to 55 amps.

For those in the US who are having trouble finding the alternator for the Pontiac Firefly in their locale, the alternator is the same as a 1986 Chevy Sprint 1.0L, which has listing in places like Advance Auto Parts and AutoZone.

I'm hesitant to spend an extra $100 or so if the foot doesn't impede anything, or worst case scenario, can be *carefully* cut off.
 

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I bought one on line and paid $45, it can out of a 87 sprint, it's the same Monkey..I have not yet installed it because a guy is supposed to be cutting the pulley for everyone..
 

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Great write up Todd. Here is the alt that I have as do sundance & a few others. It is a little race alt that is only 4" in Dia & only has 2 legs. Due to the offset of the ears a spacer is needed but that is ezy pezy. I am mounting my new electric fan on the outside of the rad as it is onlt 2"thick and does not interfere with the fender. Us stock fan wiring but reverse fan wiring so it is a pusher fan. Angela. http://www.rareelectrical.com/p-1733-new-chevy-mini-alternator-denso-street-rod-race-1-wire-new-40-amp-8162.aspx
 

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RyanJA wrote:
Quick question... has anyone tried to install the alternator with the foot that can't be removed? The one with the removable foot *is* more expensive, but many of those that have that option only put out 45 amps as opposed to 55 amps.

For those in the US who are having trouble finding the alternator for the Pontiac Firefly in their locale, the alternator is the same as a 1986 Chevy Sprint 1.0L, which has listing in places like Advance Auto Parts and AutoZone.

I'm hesitant to spend an extra $100 or so if the foot doesn't impede anything, or worst case scenario, can be *carefully* cut off.
Ryan, Have you bought the alternator yet? If not on flea-bay I came across one for about $80 without the extra foot!! The extra foot needs to be removed or dremal it off but make sure you tape everything off so the very fine shavings don't get into where the armatureand brushes are!!!!! And be sure to wear a mask, these are very HARMFUL to breath:shock:!! The reason for the removal is it interferes with the carbs,..mostly the manifold inlets!! Keep it touch of your progress!!:thumbsup:Later:weightlifter:Bob
 

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Todd, if I were to put a 4" pulley on then I would need a 30" belt right with a 2 1/4 pulley on the alternator..Does that sound correct to you.. That should be right if you used a 2-1/2" pulley at the crank..and the belt is 28" long that you used..
 

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Alaskan Explorer on a Valk
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I am doing the conversion and The alt I got had the extra foor. I just ground it off. It does need to be removed as there is no room for the alt by the carbs.
 

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In order to get the right sized belt for your pulley combination just use a piece of string to simulate the belt, mark and measure the length of the string. you need to be fairly close as there is not alot of adjustment if you want to keep the whole thing hiden behind the fairing lower.

I have just come up with a new clamp on tension adjuster so you dont have to weld to the fairing support any more. will post pics in a bit.
 

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Here are a couple of pics that may help solve a couple of issues that needed improvments.



First of all here is the new bolt on tensioner mount, it clamps straight to the frame so you can eliminate the stress on the fairing support and the need to weld it on.



The orange clamp is a ring hanger for 1" pipe,can be found at most any plumbing supply house/big hardware store. This one is epoxy coated, can be had in galvanized as well. I drilled and tapped it for a 5/16 allen head cap screw. the rod is 3/8 redi-rod or all thread bent around a curve to match the swing of the alternator ( I used the edge of a worn out brake rotor and a vise to form it).






Here it is installed, note location on frame rail near the front of the tin heat shield (rubber missing from photo) this just allows the shelter to miss the adjuster when remounted.













This next pic shows a stock rad fan mount and the one after shows how I modified it to swing it up and to the right. This will give enough room for the 4" pulley to clear the fan shroud.

The upper mount where it bolts to the rad is left unchanged, the other two are cut off and discarded ( you will make new ones later).Leaving the one upper mount bolt in looseI then rotated the fan mount shroud to the right until it hit the rad cap filler neck. cut the flat flange to give more clearence and swing it as far right as possible. This is where you will make new mounting tabs for the ones you cut off earlier (these are the tabs to mount the fan shroud to the rad, not the one from the center to the 8 o'clock position that you cut out much earlier and really doesnt need to be replaced like I did). I made my new mount tabs from 16 guage sheet metal with a reinforcing break down the center to keep it stiff.














One other item to note . I found a 4" pulley in the wrecking yard that is a good choice if you are going to make your own crank pulley instead of having a machinist cut on for you. It is the power steering pump pulley from a 1989 Honda Prelude. Its easy to get to left hand side of the engine right on top, held on with a left hand thread bolt. 12mm center hole already there. Its a 4 groove not a 3 groove (but its a genuine Mother Honda part :ROFL:) I mounted it on my crank with a 1"thick spacer I cut from a block of aluminum I had at home using a 1-5/8 holesaw. I very carefully drilled the pulley,spacer and timing gear to accept a pair of 3/16"x1-1/2" rollpins to act as the key way to prevent any chance of pulley slip ( not that it was ever a problem in the past).



I hope this helps , its been working well for me , next up date will be in a week or so to show you the spacer I made to bring the water pump cover farther forward to ease the stress on the lower rad hose.

Ride safe, Todd
 

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Todd I found the pulley off a 1989 Honda Prelude just like you said, I just needed to drill a hair off to get the bolt to fit, but it's perfect, something else 1993 Honda Accord has the 4" pulley but the bore hole is larger than the bolt so I made a spacer out of copper pipe, just cut out a 1/8" cut in the pipe then cut the length and fit it in should be good...Or a guy can actually find a spacer for it...I am using a 5/8" socket Todd, see it fits the hole where the key is perfectly, then I cut out a keyway with my dremel, then I cut a spaer out of a 22mm impact socket, that fits over the 5/8" scocket nicely, and here is a photo of it..You gotta enlarge the hole in that big flat washer then slip over the inner socket..a Finished photo of my 4" pulley. below
 

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after cleaning it up a little I put some grey paint on it so it looks a little better..I jb welded everything together but not the washer, a 21 mm socket fits the 5/8" socket too but it's not a impact one...the impact one I used is 22mm.. it spins true..Yes..Todd would be proud..
 

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Ok,....I need some advice (Who ME!!:cheeky1:)......when measuring for a belt using a seamstress tape, on the outside of the pulleys, I get a measurement of 30 inches. Now when I take a string and lay it down it the middle groove and mark it, I get 28 inches. That's a 3.5 inch pulley to a 2.5 inch pulley by the way!! So with the alternator, tight up against the tensioner bracket, which measurement should I use??? Thanks,:weightlifter:Bob
 
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