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1999 GL 1500 Aspencade SE
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Well I did it while changing the shifter seal and the valve cover gasket I snapped off one of the valve cover bolts ( I was using a torque wrench).

I searched the forum for fixes and didn't find a drill and tap solution here (forgive me, libarary about to close and that's my only computer).

I saw someone said to get a heli-coil for the bolt and also JB weld it.

Has anyone else had this problem and how did they fix theirs?



Thanks
 

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Did you snap it reinstalling it, or removing it? Since you said "torque wrench", I'm assuming you did it reinstalling it. That's GOOD. Since it's already been out, we know it's not seized, and if you didn't cross thread it, it should just back out of the hole. Try a small left hand drill bit and drill.
 

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good ole left hand drill bits,,,,,,,, NOT to be confused with the ole left hand cigarette
 

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Junior Grue
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glhonda is correct, it should come out very easily, I've even used a pick or the corner of a screwdriver on the rough surface of the break to back them out.
One thing is sure, the stub must come out.
 

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:shock:Geeze Torque wrench ? Did you use a foot pound or an inch pound wrench ? Neither was necessary because the bolts have a stop on them as not to over torque or under torque. Ifthe valve coverwas leaking prior to your changing the gasket it was probably the(4) grommets/seals were faulty



As they get old they shrink get hard and fail to put the required pressure against the valve cover gasket after the four bolts are tight . They keep oil from leaking from the bolt holes and keep the valve cover gasket in check . Dual purpose.



You shouldn't havetoo hard of time getting it out as mentioned a left turn drill bit should do the trick. Good luck :)
 

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Ken Bergen wrote:
glhonda is correct, it should come out very easily, I've even used a pick or the corner of a screwdriver on the rough surface of the break to back them out.
One thing is sure, the stub must come out.
Okay Ken.....fess up. Why did you have to use a pick to remove a broken valve cover screw?:ssshh:
 

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glhonda wrote:
Ken Bergen wrote:
glhonda is correct, it should come out very easily, I've even used a pick or the corner of a screwdriver on the rough surface of the break to back them out.
One thing is sure, the stub must come out.
Okay Ken.....fess up. Why did you have to use a pick to remove a broken valve cover screw?:ssshh:
Never had a broken valve cover screw and don't have reverse drill bits but I've removed many broken bolts with a screwdriver or pick.
As a last resort one can use a hard out "easy out" but they expand and tighten the bolt and if they break you're in deep dudu.:shock:
 

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yes no tourqe needed here(stop lip) but the seals go south and can leak
 

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glhonda wrote:
Okay Ken.....fess up. Why did you have to use a pick to remove a broken valve cover screw?:ssshh:
Mike, I was half asleep when you threw that dig at me.:lash:

By pick I meant a small pointed object not a heavy iron tool with a wooden handle and a curved head that is pointed on both ends.
Although I must confess I have been tempted to use the later at times on stubborn parts.:cheesygrin:
 

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1999 GL 1500 Aspencade SE
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OK. Thanks to everyone who responded. I ordered another bolt from Honda but will have to wait for sunshine so I can take old bolt out. Raining today in the Pacific North-WET and don't have a garage.:sadguy:
 

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I hear you on the WET-COAST comment. I intended to go for my usual long ride in the middle of a long weekend today but awoke to rain.

Another tip on getting the broken end out if it hasn't been mentioned is that aluminum expands more than steal when heated, an electric heat gun/paint stripper works great for that and you have to grab every chance to buy a new tool/toy.
 

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HondaOW wrote:
OK. Thanks to everyone who responded. I ordered another bolt from Honda but will have to wait for sunshine so I can take old bolt out. Raining today in the Pacific North-WET and don't have a garage.:sadguy:
Here in the Willamette Valley (Ore) is has been dry and sunny for a change. The long range forecast is for the same in the mid 7-'s to mid 80's with lows in the mod 50's Just ripe for riding.
 

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Just for the record......... the rubber seals that the bolt head sits on need to be replaced too.

They dry out and shrink over the years and then apply less pressure to the Valve Cover seal.



Second thing....... don't use a torque wrench on the bolts AT ALL. The collar on the bolt stops it going in any further. Just turn it in till it stops, that's enough.



Dave.
 

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1999 GL 1500 Aspencade SE
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Since It is broken inside the thread and it looks like the tip of a bullet pointso there is nothing to grab onto or drill into (not flat) andI called the motorcycle shop and I can't get it out until 8/11, I was wondering if I put a sliver of dry ice on the broken boltmaybe it would shrink enoughthat I could grab with a pick or maybe if it got cold enough would shatter if drilled or struck with sharp pointchisel??
 

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Use a small bushing as a drill guide since it's recessed and drill it deep enough to get a removal tool driven into it or use a reverse drill, you may get lucky.
 

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Where did the bolt snap off? Above or below the flange at the top of the threads? I've got one out of an 1100 belt cover (same type bolt) that came into my old shop by grinding the stub flat and drilling the bolt out part way with a left hand drill bit (HF sells them) and then using a larger diameter left hand bit drilling deep enough to remove the flange. Once that's gone there's no tension on the threaded end of the bolt which could come out easily with a pick oran easy out. If the threads do get mangled in the head it's a simple job to repair using a helicoil. Don't fool around with goops like JB Weld, a helicoil repair is better than new.
 

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Wish I knew you didn't have an extra..I have about a dozen of them laying around
 

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1999 GL 1500 Aspencade SE
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Discussion Starter #18
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Thanks again to all who responded to second post. My friend the electrician has a whole set of EZ out bits and tap handle. Too bad he is 75 miles away or I would have him do it. I think I will try this since I want to ride sooner than 8/12. If I screw it up will just have to do helicoil solution.



ceasefire49 I may stilll need some of those spare bolts you have.
 

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1999 GL 1500 Aspencade SE
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Discussion Starter #19
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Well I was able to dig out the broken bolt with a pick set and a heat gun. It took about 2 hours to get it out.



Special thanks to everyone especially Ken Bergen for the idea of the pick and heat gun. I would never have thought of that on my own.



This forum is so great!



Many minds are much better than just my mind on problem solution.
 

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I'm happy it worked out,
Now put it back together and ride the s--t out of it,:claps:
 
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