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Anyone experience and find a cure for this littlewobbly gremlin? Bike is a '92 Aspencade.I have what can best be described as a light to moderate shaking vibration as the load direction changes or the clutch is pulled in to simplycoast in any gear at any speed. It seems directly related in intensity of the vibration to the speed of the motorcycle ie: faster speedis more noticable effect. Loading the driveline in either direction stops the vibration entirely. Vibration can be duplicated on centerstand and seems most intense at 3K rpm or close. Driving force forward or slowing force by throttle closed does stop the vibe. Problem has been there since I've owned it...bought at 52K, now 71K miles. I've recently changed the rear differential/final drive, driveshaft, u-joint, and tires. Problem seems to have actually increased in noticibility slightly with the new parts. It is really amazing how much time you spend in the transition area between gaining or maintaining speed and alternately slowing under engine compression when you drive mountainous terrain on adaily basis. I'm fairly gifted mechanically, do my own work,and have checked and double checked all the obvious things. I haven't tried to indicate it yet, but the only thing that has really seemed questionable is the amount of runout present at the final output shaft/u-joint coupling. I can feel slight runout with my finger, maybe a few thousandths worth....seems insignificant for a driveshaft that needs to work without binding. No play in the shaft that I can see from side to side that would indicate severe bearing wear. Any help or suggestions appreciated...this thing is really bugging me since it is sooooooooo smooth everywhere else.



Take care, Tom
 

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hi tom and welcome to the forum you seemed to have covered most things in the drive line just off hand have you replaced the rubber isolaters on the aultanator shaft these are a common fault when they go hard over time and at 70k would warrant a change out i know its on the far side of the engine but guys here have had the oddestnoises and vibrations with this prob worth the couple of bucks and 20mins to elimate the prob



 

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By the way, any chance there is a Comp-U-Fire alternator installed on your bike.

They were famously know for vibrations around 2 - 3k RPM's.

Some folks eliminated some of the vibration by turning them around 180 degrees.

Some folks just requested another alternator in hopes of not getting another one with the vibration built in.


I don't believe it's too likely the alternator rubber dampers. However they are relatively inexpensive and easy to replace.

I replaced mine in May just because I was installing a new alternator. Was not having any vibration problems from the OEM ones at 150,000 miles.

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May 18, 2009

Alternator Rubber Dampers Part # 13534-MN5-020 $16.36 plus tax at my local Honda shop.

There are four of them for the total of $16.36.
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sounds like your swingarm bolt might not be in all the way...mine was not...adjusted it in and was like night and day
or your swingarm bearings are toast...or you have a cracked component or output bearing at engine...if the alternator is ruled out...loose eng mout bolt?...you checked the timing belts?
 

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Thanks all! Good suggestions...some I've done and checked already. I had not thought of the alternator playing a part. I did replace the alternator a few months ago with a used, good condition unit. Problem stayed the same, but I did not replace the damper rubbers and noticed that they were quite hard and offered no cushion, only proper spacing when reinstalled. The baffling part of this problem is that is has stayed fairly consistant through multiple seemingly related component replacements. I have always gotten the typical worn tire effect when the rear cups enough to become "rough" and whiney in corners. The intensity of the vibration has always increased a bit as the tire wore down. New tires seemed to dampen the problem almost to nothing for the first few thousand miles. I had been running Dunlop tires...a set of K591 series, and aset of Elite 3 series, both with the same result. I changed to Michelin Pilot GT's this time and the problem seems as intense with brand new rubber as it did when I changed out the completely worn out E3's.



How much normal runout should I detect at the front u-joint coupling where it splines to the final output shaft? I'm thinking that I'm facing a very slightly micro-tweaked final output shaft at this point.
 

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Wings can get pretty buzzy if their motors are not tightened down correctly. Have you tried loosening everything up and re-tightening in the correct sequence?

Anyway, welcome to the forum.
 

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If the intensity is directly related to the speed of the bike and not the speed of the engine it has to be a problem between the tranny and the rear wheel.
My first instinct was to suggest drive shaft bearings or a bent drive shaft (don't know how you'd ever do this besides defective parts), but it looks like you'be been there already. How about the Cush-drive in the rear end? Or the rear wheel bearings? If the effect increases with tire wear, I'd really suspect wheel bearings.
I'm imagining that when the final drive is "slack" (in-between pushing and pulling) there's some lose element that is vibrating with each pulse of the motor.
 

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Hello,
GL 1200 85 Aspen.
got the same problem, after I replaced the stator and clutch plates now when I am under 2000 rpm, the engine vibrates ,can feel it on the handle bars, and desappear at higher rpm.
Did I do sometnthing wrong on the reassembling?Some loose nuts?It even does with the bike on central stand,give gas and there it goes with vib's
Lucio
 
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