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Volt Meter Spike

1590 Views 14 Replies 12 Participants Last post by  ccsailor
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Hey guys! While crusing the Blueridge foot hills yesterday, my volt meter shot up to 14-15 volts. I put a new CD player on last week, but that should drain if anything. Bad voltage regulator?



Thanks!

Motorhead
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motorhead wrote:
Hey guys! While crusing the Blueridge foot hills yesterday, my volt meter shot up to 14-15 volts. I put a new CD player on last week, but that should drain if anything. Bad voltage regulator?
motorhead, we will have to know what bike you are working with but if an early Wing 14-15 volts is normal with 15 being on the high side but still within spec. If it is doing something different that it usually does then check the battery cables for clean TIGHT attachment at the battery & make sure the battery if full of fluid (the 2 major causes in voltage fluctuations)..

Twisty
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Did it stay this high or did it go back to normal?

A good test would be toplace a voltmeter across the battery with the bike is running above 2000 RPM.It should read normal 12-13 volts (check service manual for exact range, varies by model).This would rule out a faulty gauge.Let us know what happens.
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Thanks Twisty & cardkev,

It's an 80 1100. It stayed constant for the 30 minuteremainder of the ride, but has never been that high before. I'll check all your ideas tonight.



Cardkev, stay dry in Daytona. We left Orlando after 35 years due to last years big blows!
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On my '83 1100i the voltmeter would sit at 14.6-7 all day as long as I was riding, until I got into stop and go. On my '85 1200a the after-market Kuryaken LED voltmeter I installed sits with 2 red, 2 yellow and 2-3 green LEDs lighted, again, until I hit stop and go traffic. I figure they're both running about the same.
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Thanks Ruaidh.

The info is most helpful.
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My 1980 GL1100 now after many electrical repairs idles at up to 14.7-14.9 VDC. It will max out at 15.02 VDC. Problems resolved to get that voltage included: Low battery juice, greased up connections, crud on all electrical connectors, mis-wired wires, wires taped with Chinese tar paper, real cheap electrical tape, routing of wires into sharp turns, sharp edges, loose connections, dirty fuses, dirty fuse holders, dirty starter connections, greased up starter relay, fouled light sockets.

The alternator output was at 50+ ACV but the system never saw it since the connector was filthy. I left the connector in circuit since it was still pliable and not burnt and now spotless. You can use heat shrink tubes after soldering connections, but put them on before soldering with resin core and as an adder use room temperature vulcanizing (RTV) caulk on the joint and then heat the heat shrink. You can buy heat shrink tubing with RTV inside, but expensive.

All grounding terminations on an older bike need to be opened, cleaned so all metals are bright and then re-assembled. Verify with an X1 Ohm meter that resistance is as close to zero as possible. Again no grease.

On the battery side of things be sure to clean all, let me repeat, all connections. The copper needs to shine, the lead needs to be bright grey, then join the wire to the terminals. Do not apply grease, no dielectric grease. If you cannot maintain clean contacts go to your local electrical supply house and buy a pound of Duxseal by GE. This stuff is wrapped in cellophane, feels like play dough, will never harden, will never deteriorate and seals water like a duck's a**. It forms to any shape and can be placed on the + teriminal and allows a jumper cable to be installed through it, can be peeled off, it does not melt or leak and run like grease and will never get between the joints of an electrical connection. It beats the hell out of dielectric grease and by the way almost all grease is dielecectic at 12 VDC. The problem with grease is at high temps it runs and gets into everything and then with a thin film bewteen joints resistance increases and the next thing you know you have electrical problems. To keep moisture out use duxseal

Duxseal is great for vacuum leaks, simply press it where you think the leak is and voila no leak. This grey soft pliable material should be carried with you as an emergency repair kit for leaks. If you know an electrician ask him for some.
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Hi Motorhead, once the voltage stays under 15 volts you have nothing to worry about.
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I agree with the above, no worries under 15 volts.
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I find that mine jumps up as the temp (ambient) climbs I have installed a small computer fan blowing on regulator Honda installed regulater where there is no air flow DUH
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englishted wrote:
I agree with the above, no worries under 15 volts.
I'd still keep an eye on it though, especially if it never went quite as high before. Over 15 volts will start blowing bulbs and toasting your battery.
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Hey ccsailor, I thought about doing the fan trick on mine. Does it help? The best the regulator can do with Honda's setup is if it gets a bit of draft from the intake air passing by.
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I had a car once and the regulator in the alternator went faulty. 15.8 volts was going into the battery and it was bubbling so bad I thought it was going to blow up. I had to replace that as well. The point is, over 15 volts is bad news. :(
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Anything over 15 volts is bad, keep an eye on this. Clean up all the main connections and check the output again.
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Johnmac

I noticed an immediate more stable voltage on my installed digital guage voltageused to go from 12.9 to slightly over 15 v at 3000 now it is very stable at 13.9 and about 13.3 when idleing I just wired it straight to the aux terminals on fuse box
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