volt meter
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yeah
they'er marketd under a few names - seems to be the same unit accross the board though ---
Pretty to look at until they're wet, then they're just 'pretty wet' - I've seen em as low as $12USD, if it weren't for the switches - you could prolly encapsulate it with a little accomodation for the temp sensor and be just fine.
yeah
they'er marketd under a few names - seems to be the same unit accross the board though ---Pretty to look at until they're wet, then they're just 'pretty wet' - I've seen em as low as $12USD, if it weren't for the switches - you could prolly encapsulate it with a little accomodation for the temp sensor and be just fine.
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I purchased one of these displays last year for my GL1100. I'm glad I only paid $25 CDN for it as it has been nothing but trouble. I often have to reset the time, the voltage is usually displaying crazy values (18 to 28 V) and the thermometer always reads about 5 to 6 degrees C too high. Also, the LED lights for night time display are too dim to read the numbers at night and they do not turn off when I shut down.
It is a shame that it does not work as described because the three functions it provides are exactly what I wanted.
I purchased one of these displays last year for my GL1100. I'm glad I only paid $25 CDN for it as it has been nothing but trouble. I often have to reset the time, the voltage is usually displaying crazy values (18 to 28 V) and the thermometer always reads about 5 to 6 degrees C too high. Also, the LED lights for night time display are too dim to read the numbers at night and they do not turn off when I shut down.
It is a shame that it does not work as described because the three functions it provides are exactly what I wanted.
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Why not just pay a visit to your local autoparts store, And for around $16.00 buy a round voltage gauge by "Sunpro".. I bought one of these, and it has a "white" background which makes it easier to see in any light. Plus it's back lit too. On my '83 1100, just above the right fairing storage pocket. i bored a 2 inch hole. mounted it there. It's wired to the accessory terminal on the fuse buss... It's been wet lot's of time's. still working. The one that "Skoto" is showing here was marketed at the trucking industry here in the U.S. as "ICE GUARD" was availible at most truck stops. And was meant for use inside a heated cab.. It's too bad that marketer's with few scruples try to pass this device off to the public, as something it was never intended for... install a "real" gauge... less than an hours time to install....
Why not just pay a visit to your local autoparts store, And for around $16.00 buy a round voltage gauge by "Sunpro".. I bought one of these, and it has a "white" background which makes it easier to see in any light. Plus it's back lit too. On my '83 1100, just above the right fairing storage pocket. i bored a 2 inch hole. mounted it there. It's wired to the accessory terminal on the fuse buss... It's been wet lot's of time's. still working. The one that "Skoto" is showing here was marketed at the trucking industry here in the U.S. as "ICE GUARD" was availible at most truck stops. And was meant for use inside a heated cab.. It's too bad that marketer's with few scruples try to pass this device off to the public, as something it was never intended for... install a "real" gauge... less than an hours time to install....
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knowbuddy....if you are concerned about your stator, check into one of these smartlight units marketed by Rudy:
http://rudysbackyard.com/forum/inde...5127219d86c0b200f669e&topic=135.msg154#msg154
knowbuddy....if you are concerned about your stator, check into one of these smartlight units marketed by Rudy:
http://rudysbackyard.com/forum/inde...5127219d86c0b200f669e&topic=135.msg154#msg154
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Thanks for the tip But i plan on upgrading the electrics on my 1100.. i am starting to buy led lamps and flasher. that's just the beginnning!. I am replacing the entire fuse box. I am changing to a box that allows for higher current drawand large blade type fuse's... Gone will be the old 30amp main fuse... new connecction will be from the battery. to a 30amp supply point in the new box. I will use all blade type fuse's with amperage ratings identical to what was originally installed, except for the use of heavier guage wire for running head, turn, tail, and brake lights.... i am following a few recomdations for this upgrade from Rudy... The 1100 only has 300 watts availible for use in stock form from the factory.... out of that it use's 233 watts just to run brake, tail,turn,ignition, and headlight!.. And just putting around town, it wont charge the battery unless rpm's are above 1800. by upgrading and switching to all led's and lowering the wattage of the headlight. i can reduce the total wattage used by this bike from 233 watts to a litttle over "nine watts" to run needed lights.... leaving plenty to just run the bike itself....Big difference! I think that should alleviate any concerns about taxing the heck out of the stator and burning it up. And just to be sure things are o.k. i'll be using a amperage guage too.... analog guageis what i prefer... i think the smart light is a great product! But just re-doing what mother honda fell short of doing in the first placecan be just as beneficial. And Rudy has put me on the right path to a proper upgrade. Thanks RUDY!
Thanks for the tip
But i plan on upgrading the electrics on my 1100.. i am starting to buy led lamps and flasher. that's just the beginnning!. I am replacing the entire fuse box. I am changing to a box that allows for higher current drawand large blade type fuse's... Gone will be the old 30amp main fuse... new connecction will be from the battery. to a 30amp supply point in the new box. I will use all blade type fuse's with amperage ratings identical to what was originally installed, except for the use of heavier guage wire for running head, turn, tail, and brake lights.... i am following a few recomdations for this upgrade from Rudy... The 1100 only has 300 watts availible for use in stock form from the factory.... out of that it use's 233 watts just to run brake, tail,turn,ignition, and headlight!.. And just putting around town, it wont charge the battery unless rpm's are above 1800. by upgrading and switching to all led's and lowering the wattage of the headlight. i can reduce the total wattage used by this bike from 233 watts to a litttle over "nine watts" to run needed lights.... leaving plenty to just run the bike itself....Big difference! I think that should alleviate any concerns about taxing the heck out of the stator and burning it up. And just to be sure things are o.k. i'll be using a amperage guage too.... analog guageis what i prefer... i think the smart light is a great product! But just re-doing what mother honda fell short of doing in the first placecan be just as beneficial. And Rudy has put me on the right path to a proper upgrade. Thanks RUDY!1 - 18 of 18 Posts
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