[janhsmn]

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its me again with my 1200 1984 aspencade. Am still haveing electrical problems. The stator is okay have checked that out and the yellow wires have now been soldered and wrapped. I am now fearing a regulator problem.

a) the regulator gets hot

b) when I rev the bike up to 1800 revs the voltmeter goes up to 16 and then cuts out. I presume this is because 16 is the max it will register. It is a digital voltmeter.

As the revs drops the voltmeter comes back on again.



Would this indicate the regulator needs replacing.

thanks

Janet

 

[rcmatt007]

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I think there was a recent thread on this very issue. you might try searching for it.

 

[janhsmn]

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if you are talking about the one with a voltmeter showing 17 volts, that would have appear to have been caused by a black wire not been connected. My wires are connected. I have searched this forum from one end to the other looking for answers.

 

[jdf]

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Janet:

It could be your regulator/rectifier. It converts the AC current from your stator to DC current for your bike to use. There should be some heat from this conversion that is why there are "vanes" around it to dissipate the heat.

I do not have the Honda manual in front of me now, but there are tests that you can preform to see if it is bad.

There will be others along soon that can give you the detailed method to check it out before you have to buy one and other things you might check out first.

I just bought one because it burned up and cost me $147.00 US. :crying:My problem was just the oppisite. My volt guage went from 14.5 v to 11 v and just stayed there until the bike quit. It was drawnig power from the battery.

Hope this helps some.

Also, while I was at it, I replaced the fuseable link "30 ampmain fuse" with a 30 amp blade fuse in a weather proof fuse holder. That cost me only $3.00 US :cheeky1:

 

[exavid]

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janhsmn wrote:

a) the regulator gets hot

b) when I rev the bike up to 1800 revs the voltmeter goes up to 16 and then cuts out. I presume this is because 16 is the max it will register. It is a digital voltmeter.

As the revs drops the voltmeter comes back on again.

Would this indicate the regulator needs replacing.

Seems likely though the regulators normally operate pretty hot. Assuming your battery is okay, charged and the water level hasn't dropped seriously. It's hard to tell directly with only a voltmeter, could be a problem with the rectifier too, but since it's all one unit it doesn't make much difference. These things come up often on eBay and a used one isn't more likely to fail than a new one, also check out a local salvage firm. Leastaways that's what I'd do.

 

[twisty]

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janhsmn wrote:

its me again with my 1200 1984 aspencade. Am still haveing electrical problems. The stator is okay have checked that out and the yellow wires have now been soldered and wrapped. I am now fearing a regulator problem.

a) the regulator gets hot

b) when I rev the bike up to 1800 revs the voltmeter goes up to 16 and then cuts out. I presume this is because 16 is the max it will register. It is a digital voltmeter.

As the revs drops the voltmeter comes back on again.



Would this indicate the regulator needs replacing.

thanks

Janet, it sure sounds like you have a regulation problem (I didn't specifically say a regulator problem though)..

There are some tests in the manual for testing the VR but most of those cover only the rectifier part of the VR & we know that part of yours is working or you wouldn't have 16+ volts.

I guess before condemning any parts or systems you really should install a small hand held D/C voltmeter across the battery posts & run the engine to 3000-4000 RPM's.. If it is OK there you have other problems (like a bad on-bike voltmeter),, if the voltage stays high across the battery then you have regulation problems..



Start with a thorough check of BOTH the battery's positive cable & ground cable for a proper & clean connection (I saw a loose battery cable cause a problem like you have, once)..

Then move on to the regulator wires,, obviously the 3 yellow wires are in good shape so skip those,, verify the 2 green (or green/blk) wires go to a solid (clean) ground),, then verify the 2 large red wires are continuous & intact with good connections to the starter relay,, then verify the black wire wire is getting FULL system voltage with the ign switch turned on.. I suspect your problem is either in a poor ground on one of the green wires,, or a lack of system voltage to the regulator's black sense wire..

If all the connections & wires are properly hooked up & grounded correctly then you very likely have a failed voltage regulator..

Probably wouldn't hurt to make sure the battery water level is at least above the plates also..



Twisty

 

[janhsmn]

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Twisty

You said

I guess before condemning any parts or systems you really should install a small hand held D/C voltmeter across the battery posts & run the engine to 3000-4000 RPM's.. If it is OK there you have other problems (like a bad on-bike voltmeter),, if the voltage stays high across the battery then you have regulation problems..



We have a hand held multimeter that measures many things including DC voltage. It has the two prongs at the end of the cables.

I am now going to ask a really dumb question, (bearing in mind both me and my hubby have only had Goldwings since May and are trying to learn all this stuff).

There is a black test lead and a red one on the multimeter which ones goes on which terminal of the battery and will this type of multimeter suffice to do the test.

You said

then verify the black wire wire is getting FULL system voltage with the ign switch turned on.. :baffled:

Could you expand on the above a bit for me.



Sorry for being so thick. :stumped:

Thanks again

Janet

 

[twisty]

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janhsmn wrote:

Twisty

You said

I guess before condemning any parts or systems you really should install a small hand held D/C voltmeter across the battery posts & run the engine to 3000-4000 RPM's.. If it is OK there you have other problems (like a bad on-bike voltmeter),, if the voltage stays high across the battery then you have regulation problems..



We have a hand held multimeter that measures many things including DC voltage. It has the two prongs at the end of the cables.

I am now going to ask a really dumb question, (bearing in mind both me and my hubby have only had Goldwings since May and are trying to learn all this stuff).

There is a black test lead and a red one on the multimeter which ones goes on which terminal of the battery and will this type of multimeter suffice to do the test.

You said

then verify the black wire wire is getting FULL system voltage with the ign switch turned on.. :baffled:

Could you expand on the above a bit for me.

Janet,

On the meter usage: there are many different types of small multi meters.. Basically the RED lead goes to the Battery's (+) post & the Black goes to the battery's (-) post.. The meter set-up is a little more involved--- If the testleads can be placed in different sockets on the meter they will have to be moved to either the (DC +) & (DC-) holes (red wire to DC+),or moved to the solid line (DC) logo positions, or, if you have a twist dial the dial will have to be set to DC, or the solid line over the other solid line, or?.. Sometimes you will have to both set the dial to DC & also move the red & black wires to the proper input sockets.. In any case the metershould be set to something like the 20 or 50 volt DC VOLTAGE scale.If you can explain your meter to us or at least tell us what is movable & changeable on the meter we can advise further. DO NOT set to, or set it up to measure on the AMP scale as most of those small meters will only measure to about 10 amps so will blow an internal fuse or do other damage if set to the amp scale then placed across the battery posts..

On that black wire?- Once you get your meter to measure DC voltage in the 12-20 volt range just measure the voltage on that black wire going to the regulator (do it right at the regulator connection) with the engine running at 3000-4000 that black wire should be close to the same voltage as the battery..

If you have a Radio Shack or other electronics supply or repair store close to you just takeyour multimeter with you & pay them a visit.. I'm sure that they will give you a quick set-up lesson on how to use it..

Any further questions just post back..

Twisty

 

[janhsmn]

imported post

thanks twisty



this is a link to the voltmeter we bought of ebay. i dont know if that will help out with what type it is. THis is the first time we have used one of these. It does have the black and red leads, and the dial in the middle.


http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7540318312&ru=http%3A%2F%2Fsearch.ebay.co.uk%3A80%2Fsearch%2Fsearch.dll%3Ffrom%3DR40%26satitle%3D7540318312%2B%2B%26fvi%3D1

 

[twisty]

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janhsmn wrote:

thanks twisty



this is a link to the voltmeter we bought of ebay. i dont know if that will help out with what type it is. THis is the first time we have used one of these. It does have the black and red leads, and the dial in the middle.


http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7540318312&ru=http%3A%2F%2Fsearch.ebay.co.uk%3A80%2Fsearch%2Fsearch.dll%3Ffrom%3DR40%26satitle%3D7540318312%2B%2B%26fvi%3D1

Janet, the picture is hard to make out the voltage position but the lead placement is:

Black lead in the port marked COMMON

Red lead in the port marked VO A (R/H side)-- VO A is; Volts, Ohms, Amps

I can just make out the V on the upper right center of the dial so set the center dial to one of the V settings& try it, if it reads about 12 volts when placed on the battery posts you have it set correctly if it doesn't read battery voltage at around 12 volts try a different V setting until it does.. Then run your tests..

Twisty

 

[janhsmn]

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thanks for that just waiting for the other half to return from work then will be testing this. I have put it on the battery without the engine running and it shows 12 volts. so the battery appears to be okay.

janet

 

[twisty]

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janhsmn wrote:

thanks for that just waiting for the other half to return from work then will be testing this. I have put it on the battery without the engine running and it shows 12 volts. so the battery appears to be okay.

Janet, in looking closer at the picture it looks like there is a 2-20-50 volt meter setting just left of top center. If so try it on the 20 setting..

Twisty

 

[janhsmn]

imported post

hi twisty

have put the voltmeter on the battery and at 3000 revs it was registering 17.5 volts. i presume this means i need a new rectifier/regulator. i didnt have any lights on, on the bike for this test, should i have had.

thanks again janet

 

[twisty]

imported post

janhsmn wrote:

hi twisty

have put the voltmeter on the battery and at 3000 revs it was registering 17.5 volts. i presume this means i need a new rectifier/regulator. i didnt have any lights on, on the bike for this test, should i have had.

thanks again janet

Janet, you ask...

have put the voltmeter on the battery and at 3000 revs it was registering 17.5 volts. i presume this means i need a new rectifier/regulator.

Not necessarily so!!! It could just be a problem with the wires going to the regulator so it can't get the information to do it's job.. Read my original post about checking the regulator's ground wires & black sense wire for voltage.. You could possiblyhave a failed regulator but must first verify the wiring going to the regulator isn't the problem.. That regulator MUST have good grounds to the green wires & MUST have system voltage to the black wire or it just can't function correctly..

Twisty

 

[janhsmn]

imported post

twisty

on a previous posting of mine you said

There is a (I believe black with ? stripe) wire coming out of the regulator that needs to go to main line power as that is the voltagesense line



I apologise if i keep asking these questions but what is the main line power. :baffled:

thanks

janet

 

[twisty]

imported post

janhsmn wrote:

twisty

on a previous posting of mine you said

There is a (I believe black with ? stripe) wire coming out of the regulator that needs to go to main line power as that is the voltagesense line



I apologise if i keep asking these questions but what is the main line power. :baffled:

thanks

janet

Janet, just make sure that black wire has close to battery voltage with the engine running at least 3000 RPM's.. "Main line power"(probably poor words chosen by me)is fused ignition power from the ign switch ..

Twisty