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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Do you have any recommendations for a good voltage regulator for the 1986 SEI gl 1200 goldwing. If there is more than one source, can you let me know? thank you!
 

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this is one source, call them as inquire as to the exact model you need.




High Quality Powersport OEM Replacement Parts | RMSTATOR you have to enter the bike year/model

which then will lead you to this unit:


this is the OEM replacement

Personally, I would choose the MOSFET unit, as it runs cooler.
this is the only one that I would buy myself, select MOSFET as it is Rated Specifically for the Higher Output SEi stators.
if you buy the "Standard models", they will soon burn up because they can't handle the high output from the SEi stator.

 

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If I might hijack a bit,AZ,will the sei stator work in the 1200 interstate?thanks

Sent from my LM-X420 using Tapatalk
 

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If I might hijack a bit,AZ,will the sei stator work in the 1200 interstate?thanks

Sent from my LM-X420 using Tapatalk
I don't think it would fit and why would you want it to? If the stator puts out way more charge than you need it causes the regulator and wiring to overheat.
 

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I would advise to use the item that they recommend for your specific bike.
their list is exhaustive, never saw so many models of bikes covered replaced R&R units.
 

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You have to decide if you want to use a shunt or series regulator. The MOSFET is an internal electronic component that works better than the older technologies, but does not change the fact that the RR will be either a shunt or series regulator - both use the MOSFET technology. I would recommend a series RR as it does work the best. The only issue you would have is where to locate it as it is larger than the OEM RR and will not fit where the OEM RR is.

The newer shunt RR may only have 5 wires. 3 yellow for the stator, a red - power wire, and a black - ground wire. When you contact the company, ask if the RR is a series or shunt RR, and what is the amp rating - 35 amp or better would be good, 30 amp will work as well. You can test a shunt RR to determine if it is functioning or not, you cannot test a series RR.

Installing a 5 wire RR is relatively simple. Connect the RR red to the two red/white wires going into the wiring harness. The black wire connects to the two green - ground wires in the wiring harness, the yellow stator wires are self-explanatory. The OEM black wire in the wiring harness, the sense wire does not need to be connected, but does need to be capped off as it will be live whenever the engine is started. The newer RRs sense the electrical system voltage through the red power wire.

The SH847 series RR from Roadster is rated at 50 amp load and is a good option as is the SH775 RR. The Compufire 55402 rated at 40 amp load is another good series RR alternative. Just about any series RR on the market will work.

The SH847 and Compufire series RRs need a lot of room to install. A fellow I corresponded with in CA installed the SH847 on his '85 Limited Edition, I sold him the RR as I was not using it on my '85 Limited Edition - have the external alt mod, on the inside of the right saddlebag. These pictures show the installation, it worked well. He used the right saddlebag because the left saddlebag inside area is a bit more busy with brakes and such. Just have to have disconnects when you remove the saddlebag:
RR 1.jpg RR 2.jpg
Room there for a Compufire as well.

Good luck
 

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good points Rednaxs60,

he should be able to pick the right one,
as you said, I also favor the MOSFET Series regulator
 

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I just realized that I have a copy of the Series MOSFET regular on file here.


326539


....
 

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1986 SEi gl1200
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
this is one source, call them as inquire as to the exact model you need.




High Quality Powersport OEM Replacement Parts | RMSTATOR you have to enter the bike year/model

which then will lead you to this unit:


this is the OEM replacement

Personally, I would choose the MOSFET unit, as it runs cooler.
this is the only one that I would buy myself, select MOSFET as it is Rated Specifically for the Higher Output SEi stators.
if you buy the "Standard models", they will soon burn up because they can't handle the high output from the SEi stator.


Thank for the information which I will look into. The local Honda dealer also recommended Ricks Electric. They have want they call a Hot Shot RR which is supposed to run cooler. Have you heard anything about their products?
 

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Thank for the information which I will look into. The local Honda dealer also recommended Ricks Electric. They have want they call a Hot Shot RR which is supposed to run cooler. Have you heard anything about their products?
Took the Compufire series RR off the V-Strom when I sold it and installed the Rick's Hot Shot RR that came with the bike. It works well. It is shunt RR.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Took the Compufire series RR off the V-Strom when I sold it and installed the Rick's Hot Shot RR that came with the bike. It works well. It is shunt RR.
I am told the Hot Shot is supposed to run cooler and not so hot? Although my current regulator still works (Tour Max), the connectors tend to run hot connecting the yellow wires from the voltage regulator to the stator wires. Usually only one of the yellow wires runs hotter than the others. As stated above, would the MOSFET RR take care of that as well as running cooler? As shown in the pic above, does mounting the RR on the inside of the saddlebag have enough air flow for cooling purposes? I do like the idea of the RR being mounted away from the heat of the engine. Thank you for any comments you may have since I would like a cooler running regulator that I do not have to worry about.
 

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That heat is typically from resistance in the connectors, due to age. The usual solution is to remove those three connectors and solder the wires together with heat shrink over that. You could also replace the connectors with new ones that are rated to handle the current.
 

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the Series MOSFET Regulator will run cooler, because of the Technology that it uses.

A Series Regulator reduces the Amount of Current drawn by Opening/Closing the circuit extremely fast, so that the Amount of Current sent to the Motorcycle's Electrical System is ONLY ENOUGH TO KEEP THE BATTERY CHARGED.

Whereas, the SHUNT REGULATORS will Always Pull off the Excess Current to LOAD DOWN THE STATOR so that the Voltage can never rise above the Set Point to keep the Battery charged. ( this is why the Yellow Wires Run Hot )

( this is very important to understand, the way the two types of Regulators work is totally different )

But their Goal regardless of how they accomplish it, is to keep the battery from being Over Charged.

So, even if your current Shunt Regulator is working, and "Your Goal" is to make every thing runs Cooler, Buy a Series MOSFET Regulator and install it.
Then the current drawn from the Stator will be Reduced, and the 3 yellow wires will run much cooler.
This will have a Very Beneficial Side Effect: The Stator runs cooler, and will Last Forever and not burn up...

.

Now, as to the one or more Yellow Wire(s) that is running hotter?
You need to find out why, check the connection where you spliced it together ( or Honda did ) and if there are any Connectors in the circuit, take them out, and Solder the Wires together ( use a piece of wire to extend the length if necessary " same gauge " )

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EDIT: Rereading your post, it still has the Connectors.
Get rid of them, and Solder the wires together.
Push Heat Shrink over the wires before you solder them, so that once they are soldered together, you can slide the Heat Shrink over the joint to protect the wires from being shorted out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
That heat is typically from resistance in the connectors, due to age. The usual solution is to remove those three connectors and solder the wires together with heat shrink over that. You could also replace the connectors with new ones that are rated to handle the current.

How does one determine what connectors are sufficient for the current? Who would I go to for those type of connectors? Where the stator wires come out of the stator (back of engine) are soldered with heat shrink. It is where the wires connect to the RR located at the top of the engine that have the individual connectors which is the way the Honda dealer put it together years back when they installed the stator. They are rated for 200 degrees. Is there a specific type of rating I need to look for? If I understand as an alternative you are saying to replace the connectors on the yellow wires connecting to the RR and solder them to? The other red and green wires and black wire could retain the connectors?
 

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those connectors are too small to carry the high amperage that the stator puts out for the "long haul".

Engineers spec components to "just barely" meet the specs needed, they do that to "save money".

for our use, we need to delete all of those little "Molex connectors", the pins are too small, the spring tension weakens over time, as the terminals get hot.

So, yes, delete the connectors and solder the wires together, cover the joints with Heat Shrink.

I like to make the length of the wires a bit longer to allow moving components around a bit if necessary.

If you have not already, I highly suggest getting a Series MOSFET Regulator/Rectifier.
that will reduce the amount of current through the Yellow Wires, thus letting the Charging System run cooler.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I just realized that I have a copy of the Series MOSFET regular on file here.


View attachment 326539

....
Thanks for the info. on the SH 847 which I think I will get and plan to locate it on the inside of the rear saddlebag as shown in the prior pic. My concern since this is located by the rear tire, is there any concern getting it wet when riding in rain? Not sure if any water or much of it splatters in that direction from the tire or not or whether the RR is somewhat waterproof.
 
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