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Still a winger at heart.
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Bargoyle seems to have sprung a leak. I think I see some weeping from underneath.

I spose that the water pump needs to be changed out. First, anyone know of a source?

Second, after reading my book, it looks pretty straightforward. Is there anything I should watch out for?

Thanks

:cool:
 

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Pay close attention to where each bolt comes from as there are several different lengths. Make sure you get all the little O-rings in your replacement kit and use them. Be careful not to over torque the bolts and break one like I did! Take your time and clean up all themating surfaces.

My 83 GL1100 was leaking oil from the weep hole. I bought a seal replacement kit from the local Honda dealership for about $17.00. A new pump was about $120.00 so I didn't buy one. Mine seemed to be OK when I checked it out and hasn't given me any problems in the 25,000 miles since. I have over 96,600 miles on the bike now. Check your impellerout for side play, andfeel for bearing wear by turning it by hand. If any doubt, I would probably replace the whole pump (funds permitting, which they never are)ratherthan risk having to do it again.

I have seen water pumps on line for about $100.00. I don't remember where though but I'm sure you could find a source pretty easy!

Good luck,

Bob :11grey:
 

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$100 seems to be the average price, someone else posted a few days back about getting a pump for that price.
 

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I have ALWAYS had better luck with honda OEM O-rings than cheaper after market ones. also, put a thin coat of oil on the ring on the pump body before sliding it into the housing. I couple of times I have just nicked that ring and had to take it all apart again to replace it.

which year wing? while you are there consider replaing radiator hoses and timing belts if that hasn't been done.

I miss those wonderful oregon summers, but not the long dreary winters. lived in Gold beach 77-81 (bought my '78 then) and Greshem 2000-03.

sources... I get my parts either from www.bikebandit.com or www.powersportspro.com sabre-cycle also has aftermarket pumps
 

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What year is Bargoyle? I forgot. Anyway, Ijust did this job a month ago on my 78 GL1000.My advice;

1. Take off as much stuff as possible (faring, brackets, timing belt covers, engine case savers, etc). You'll need the room.

2.Assuming you have philips head casescrews, get an impact driver.

3.Many new impact drivers have too stiff a spring. When you hit it, it just bounces and does not turn the screw. Take it apart and shorten thespring. Cut off the first spiral.

4. Get a Dremel tool, an arbor and a cutoff wheel to cut slots in the screw heads of the most stubborn screws so you can use a standard screwdriver bit in the impact tool.

5. Get a couple different lengths of extensions to fit the impact driver's socket head.

6. Buy one of those stainless steelallen head screw kits onEbay to replace all thephilips head screws when you button her back up. You are going to ruin a couple screws in the process and the allen head screws are a so much easier to work with.

7. Usesome anti-sieze compound on the screws. You never can tell when you'll need to tear it down again.

8. Patience. It's a must. You need to "worry" those screws out.

9. I had to fashion a gasket scraper out of a stick of wood and a razor blade mounted to the end to get into some of the hard-to-reach spots on the engine case.

I was able to get 4 of the 9 screws loose with the philips head bit. Thehead stripped out of the other 5. I cut slots in these with the dremel tool, then used the standard screwdriver bit. The final screwhead split in half and I ended up cutting a slot in what was left of it. Luckily it finally came loose.

Good luck to you. In retrospect the job wasn't that hard and the challanging bits were kind of fun. It was just a little scary thinking that I was going to bust something off in the engine case.
 

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For what little they cost, I'd get a new set of bolts while you're at it. They sit there and take all the road muck. One's almost certainly going to break off.

Lots of freeing agent over a couple of days would probably help things as well - especially after a run (but not when it's piping hot).
 

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Thanks for the tips. I ended up buying all the o-rings, and a complete set of new bolts from bikebandit. The only real bummer is that I dont think I can get 'em in soon enough to ride on fathers day. dangi:X:X:X:X:X:X:X:X:X:Xt

Bargoyle is an 80gl1100.
 

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Think about replacing the fan switch if you need to do that while you have the radiator off and can get into that area. Other things: make sure you have patience as was mentioned. I spent about 6 or 7 hours on one of those screws. REplaced them with the Honda bolts from your year, so you will not have that problem.
 

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I dont have any clue at this point whether this tool will work on this project, but I have used the heck out of it on my 56 willy's. It slides into the air hammer. Put a socket on the end, and hammer away. Use the wrench to torque the bolt out. It works wonders. I found it at an aircraft tool website, about 3 years ago. I cant remember what it was. A really cool tool...
 

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Cool tool! If you strip the Phillips head out on any screws, be carefull how deep you cut out a straight slot. Too deep and half of the head may break off when using a straight blade driver.
 

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good advice... I believe I will trust those who have paid the dues prior to my arrival..

:goofygrin:
 
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