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Since I have my front forks off and i'm waiting on parts, I might as well change the oil,coolant, and change the waterpump as well. I bought the pump and seal kit a while back, but now is the time to do it.



Any tips from those that have done the job?



Thanks,



Ed
 

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edzinohio wrote:
Since I have my front forks off and i'm waiting on parts, I might as well change the oil,coolant, and change the waterpump as well. I bought the pump and seal kit a while back, but now is the time to do it.
Any tips from those that have done the job?
Thanks,
Ed
Not much to it Ed, a pretty straight forward job at least on my old 1200. The 1500 looks to be pretty much the same except for a more annoying lower radiator hose. On my bike the screws came out okay, I know some have had to use an impact driver to break one or two loose. If you have any corrosion buff it off with a wire wheel or WD40 and a nut and use a bit of anti-seize on the threads when reassembling. That stuff will keep the threads from galling in the aluminum and you won't have any hard to remove ones in the future.
 

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My 83 1100 went smoothly. Except for the front cover bolt I over torqued and broke off.:shock: My fault, just screwed up and had the setting wrong on the wrench.:whip: Had to remove all the bolts again and go to Honda for a new bolt. They of course had to order it and I was down a few more days (and dollars).:X Fortunately it broke off right at the head of the bolt and I could unscrew the bolt shank with my fingers after breaking it loose with Vice Grips.

It should be a snap with the front tire and forks out of the way!:walker:

Good luck,

Bob :11grey:
 

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Make sure you have the transmission cover gasket. I didn't and tried to use Permatex. Everything went fine with no leaks until I tried to drive it. Shifter would not return to center due to close tolerances. Had to drain everything and make a gasket. Everything was fine then. Also if your using the Clymer manual it calls out for removing snap ring. There is not a snap ring on my 83 GL1100. It had 3 bolts holding the water pump in. It was really a simple job.



Billy
 

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AZWinger wrote:
My 83 1100 went smoothly. Except for the front cover bolt I over torqued and broke off.:shock: My fault, just screwed up and had the setting wrong on the wrench.:whip: Had to remove all the bolts again and go to Honda for a new bolt. They of course had to order it and I was down a few more days (and dollars).:X Fortunately it broke off right at the head of the bolt and I could unscrew the bolt shank with my fingers after breaking it loose with Vice Grips.
It should be a snap with the front tire and forks out of the way!:walker:

Good luck,

Bob :11grey:
Bob, I'd think Yuma is a big enough town that you could have found a metric bolt or screw of just about any size at a hardware store.
 

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Take care with the little O rings in the front cover that they don't fall out of place or get damaged.
 

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exavid wrote:
AZWinger wrote:
My 83 1100 went smoothly. Except for the front cover bolt I over torqued and broke off.:shock: My fault, just screwed up and had the setting wrong on the wrench.:whip: Had to remove all the bolts again and go to Honda for a new bolt. They of course had to order it and I was down a few more days (and dollars).:X Fortunately it broke off right at the head of the bolt and I could unscrew the bolt shank with my fingers after breaking it loose with Vice Grips.
It should be a snap with the front tire and forks out of the way!:walker:

Good luck,

Bob :11grey:
Bob, I'd think Yuma is a big enough town that you could have found a metric bolt or screw of just about any size at a hardware store.
I probably could have found something that would have worked. I had been to both Lowes and Home Depot a couple of days before looking for a specific metric nut and couldn't find one. I found the bin where they were supposed to be but everything wasmixed up and I spent more than a few minutes at each store looking. Trying to find help was like looking for water in the desert. I didn't feel like going through the frustration again and just went to the dealer. Could have saved a couple bucks though!

Bob
 

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I probably could have found something that would have worked. I had been to both Lowes and Home Depot a couple of days before looking for a specific metric nut and couldn't find one. I found the bin where they were supposed to be but everything wasmixed up and I spent more than a few minutes at each store looking. Trying to find help was like looking for water in the desert. I didn't feel like going through the frustration again and just went to the dealer. Could have saved a couple bucks though!

Bob
I really get the gripes when I go to one of those places and find they don't restock their stuff. What do they do stock up when they have a grand opening and close down store when enough stuff runs out?
 

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I did the job a few weeks ago.

No real problems apart from making sure all the O rings went into the right places - and stayed there!

If you haven't got a new set of bolts, I'd suggest geting those. Just a few pence compared to the grief if one breaks as you tighten it.
 

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Need some help please:(!On my way home from show today, my temp gage went right up and all water from expansion bottle overheated and came out as steam from underneath engine from tube. Took water pump cover off - impeller is good but lots of movement from side to side and up and down on shaft. Perhaps you experience ones can answer a few questions for me.

  • Is this movement normal on the shaft? If not do I need to change the water pump?
  • If so how does the impeller be removed off the shaft?
  • If I need to change the pump do I need to drain the oil before removing the engine front cover?
There is no water mixed in with engine oil, I presume head gaskets are ok??

Any other advice given on this problem will be greatly appreciated.

The bike is a GL 1200 Ascepende LTD edition 1985 US import.

Thanks Nick
 

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Nick, if the pump wasn't leaking then that might not be your OH problem. I would have been looking at the thermostat & fan switch first. A small amount of play in the pump wouldn't stop it from circulating the coolant.

Some questions that need asking;

Did the electric fan come on when the gauge rose up (if not the fan switch may be faulty)?
Did the radiator hoses feel very hard with the engine running (if they are very hard to squeeze that would indicate head gasket failure)? You won't always get water in the oil when head gaskets fail, only if the wateror oil tracts blow in the direction of one another.

If the pump needs replacing you do have to drain the oil and coolant.

BTW, welcome to the forum. :clapper:
 

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Nikki,

Welcome to the forum!:waving: Wish it were under better circumstances.Grouchomax
asked some good questions. Make sure the fan is coming on first. My pump wasn't actually bad. It was leaking a small amount of coolant from the weep hole and I just replaced all the seals and O-rings. The seals I replaced are the ones that keep the water and oil separated in each side of the casing where the pump mounts through. On my 83 GL1100Aspencade the pump is not repairable and must be replaced as a whole unit.

I did however blow a head gasket one time.:X My symptoms were similar to what you described in that the temp gaugesuddenly read unusually high and the reservoir tank was overfull when I checked it. After it cooled off it was low so I topped it off and let it warm up again. It was fine for a day or two after that. Then it happened again.:shock: Once again the reservoir tank filled all the way up and started to dump out the overfull tube. After checking things out for awhile (it got good and hot) I could detect a sweet antifreeze smell from the right side exhaust, and as I watched a small thread of steam, thinking OH SH..it quickly turned into a large sweet steam cloud! I new I had found my problem! It took several warm-up cycles before it quit dumping pressure into the coolant system and start blowing steam. I guess the gasket was getting slowly worse.I did not have any water in the engine either.

I took it all apart and found I had blown the gasket and was sucking coolant into the head chamber. Nottodifficult a job to fix. I spent more time cleaning up the head-to-cylinder surfaces than anything else.

A good repair manual will give step-by-step instructions on water pump and head removal as well as other info as well!

Hope this helps,

Bob :11grey:
 

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Like exavid mentioned, I had to use the impact driver plenty on my 1000. The biggest problem I had was with the tight tolerances of putting in the aftermarket water pump from Sabre Cycle. It was so tight that it sheered a very fine bit of the o-ring around the pump:X. I figured it would be ok until I had it all back together and it leaked.

By the way, if anyone ever does the pump ona GL1000, make sure you replace the screws with hex-head or allen head bolts, for the next time.

I also had to use a universal socket here and there to get around the frame. I don't know if they fixed that on the 1100 and hopefully i won't have to find out anytime soon.
 

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When installing tight O rings it will help if you give them a light wipe of grease, if they have to slide in a good distance wipe the sliding surface with a bit. Just a very thin wipe. You will push some inside the cooling system if you do this when installing a waterpump, but it will be a very small amount and if you use waterpump grease or boat trailer wheel bearings (or any other waterproof grease) it will stay put and not mix into th coolant. Not that such a minuscule amount would hurt anyway. Any time you shave some material from an O ring, you may as well start over with a new one, cause that one ain't going to do the job.
 

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Nikki wrote:
impeller is good but lots of movement from side to side and up and down on shaft. Perhaps you experience ones can answer a few questions for me.

  • Is this movement normal on the shaft? If not do I need to change the water pump?
  • If so how does the impeller be removed off the shaft?
  • If I need to change the pump do I need to drain the oil before removing the engine front cover?
:waving::waving:Welcome to the Best Goldwing Site in the Internet, Nikki!:waving::waving:

The movement of the shaft says the bearingis most likelygone, if so you will need a new pump. The new pump will have a new impeller. You will need to drain the oil before installing the new pump, the pump separates the coolant from the oil. Lack of water in the oil is surprising if the pump has gone totally but is no guarantee that the head gaskets are okay. As Grouchomax said in his post you need to check that the fan operates when the heatcomes up, also a good possibility a head gasket let go and combution gases got into the coolant and over pressured the system.
 
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Hey Nikki :waving:Welcome to the forum and visit often. :clapper:These guys will soon get your problem sorted. :jumper:

:skipping::18red::skipping:
 
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I have just been reading some of the info that Grouchomax and AZWinger have provided to members and it's really first class:clapper:These two guys must be closefor promotion to "Guru" :clapper:

:leprechaun::18red::leprechaun:
 

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Redwing. wrote:
I have just been reading some of the info that Grouchomax and AZWinger have provided to members and it's really first class:clapper:These two guys must be closefor promotion to "Guru" :clapper:

:leprechaun::18red::leprechaun:
After spending some time on this site viewing posts and recognizing the levelof experience and knowledge some of these GURUS and others have, I can honestly say "I HAVE A LONG WAY TO GO" before I'll ever be near the GURU class! :cool:

But thanks anyway Redwing!! :waving:

Bob :11grey:
 
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AZWinger wrote:
After spending some time on this site viewing posts and recognizing the levelof experience and knowledge some of these GURUS and others have, I can honestly say "I HAVE A LONG WAY TO GO" before I'll ever be near the GURU class! :cool:

But thanks anyway Redwing!! :waving:
Hey AZWinger :waving:Keep up the good work, promotion is not far away.:clapper:

:leprechaun::18red::leprechaun:
 

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Thanks for all you welcome messages, much appreciated:clapper:

Yes the fan came on when the temp rose, took out thermo and done usual checks in boiling water and found stat to be opening and closing. The amount of movement on the impeller shaft is concerning me. How do I remove impeller to take front engine cover off after draining oil or will the engine cover come off over the impeller??

I think I'm gunna:gunhead:myself!!!!

thanks everyone for your help:waving:
 
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