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where is the waterpump located and how long does it take to replace it ?
 

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On a 1100 it is to the left of the oil filter. I would say for a first timer 4 to 6 hours.
 

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thank you for your quick responce. are you talking about sitting on the bike; its on the left side of the oil filter?
 

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SItting on the bike it is on the left or road side of the bike. Make sure to update you're login with you're location. You never know you may live down the street from one of us.
 

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good idea i live in fairview,tennessee. asyou may already figured out i'm not very good at typing either .

many thanks;

peanut
 

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Welcome aboard. When you do the waterpump make sure you don't overtorque the bolts or use silicone on the gaskets. It is a pretty easy repair. Are you planning on replacing the waterpump with new or rebuilding yours?
 

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the guy that rebuilt my carbs said it may need replacing soon. Its a 1982 goodwing with supposling 38000 miles its doing fine for the last 3500 miles. doesn't leak at all and doesn't overheat either.

thanks;

peanut
 

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They have an old and new style pump. If you have the old style it will have a bak o lite impeller the new style will have a metal impeller. The old style impeller will most likely break when you try to disassemble the pump to replace the bearings and seals. Save yourself the heartache, buy a new pump before you pull it apart.
 

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thanks to everybody for there help for a first timer. where would be the best place to get one?

thanks again;

peanut
 

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ebay of course. You might try one of the ebay stores that scrap goldwings, I ended up purchasing my pump thru them by calling ahead and telling them I was loking for the waterpump with the steel impeller, then I bought a rebuild kit from crescent moon cycles for 25 dolars. I bought the water pump for 30. A new pump can be bought for about 120 I know crescent moon carries them.
 

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since we are on the subject, I am dripping just a little antifreeze from what looks like a breather hole or something underneath. I always check levels and so far, I am not running hot, should I be concerned?
 

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whitehouse wrote:
since we are on the subject, I am dripping just a little antifreeze from what looks like a breather hole or something underneath. I always check levels and so far, I am not running hot, should I be concerned?
That hole is the WEEP hole. This lets you know your pump is starting to go bad when it drip's coolant OR oil . Mine was dripping oil. I ran it for over 3000 miles before putting a NEW one in. Don't do this tho as I got lucky!! Coolant could get into your oil and cause some major damage!!! CHANGE THAT PUMP!!
 

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any time you have a fluid leak of any kind you had better check it out.

peanut
 

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peanut wrote:
thank you for your quick responce. are you talking about sitting on the bike; its on the left side of the oil filter?
Actually, it will take days if you're sitting on the bike as it's heck to reach around to the screws.:cheeky1:

Sorry, it's been one of those months..........If your front cover has phillips head screws, you might want to replace those with a set of proper bolts. Ibelieve youcan buy those for a reasonable amount from several different sources.

I'll look up a couple of sites for you and I hope that your pump project goes smoothly.

Regards,

Hobie.......back in a bit.
 

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If peanut has an 1100 it should have bolts on the front cover, I believe it was only the 1000s that had phillips screws. When I replaced the water pump on my 1000 I had some front cover bolts from a defunct 1100 engine. I can tell you from experience that you can change the pump in half the time with bolts rather than phillips screws. If you do have phillips screws I sure recommend either and electric or hammer driven impact driver. They will break the screws loose much more quickly and won't damage the heads. Be sure to use aluminum anti-seize on the threads when reassembling.

One super handy tool I have is a Rigid battery powered impact driver. The thing is amazing, it will drive 3" screws into wood with no effort, you don't even have to push the driver, only enough to keep the screwdriver tip on the screw. There's no kickback trying to twist your arm either. The Rigid 18V unit generates 1489 inch pounds of torque which translates to 124 ft pounds. These things shouldn't be used to torque down screws and bolts since there's no control on the final torque but they sure are handy for removing bolts and screws and running them down for final torque with a wrench.

Here's a light duty impact driver from HF that's cheap and will do a good job breaking stubborn screw loose.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=93481

Here's a little heavier duty model. I normally use the smaller one on GW engines because it can get into tighter areas.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=37530
 

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here is a hint, if your screwdriver is slipping, before you strip out the screw head, put some valve grinding compound on the tip of your screwdriver.
 

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exavid wrote:
One super handy tool I have is a Rigid battery powered impact driver. The thing is amazing, it will drive 3" screws into wood with no effort, you don't even have to push the driver, only enough to keep the screwdriver tip on the screw. There's no kickback trying to twist your arm either. The Rigid 18V unit generates 1489 inch pounds of torque which translates to 124 ft pounds. These things shouldn't be used to torque down screws and bolts since there's no control on the final torque but they sure are handy for removing bolts and screws and running them down for final torque with a wrench.
They are even better at pulling long screws out! I have a Makita and it gets used all the time. Fantastic tool and it has a little light on the front so you can see what you're doing.



Sorry to move this off topic. Good luck with your water pump job and read up on the proper antifreeze to use.
 

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Taking the water pump off is a PITA..because you ahve to remove the whole front engine casing and install a new gasket set on that case..and you shoudl replace all the o rings inside the set sells for $22 most places.

N ow you can check the pump by jsut taking off the lower radiator hose elbow. It means draining youir antifreeze but you can see the impeller..if you can move it AT ALL side to side it's going bad..if it's bakolite it's original if metal it's a replacement.

But I wouldn't mess with it at all unless you have antifreeze or oil dripping front the weep hole which is at the bottom of the pump housing.
 

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