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I did search and found a lot of info but not sure what my issue is exactly. I have had the wing a week or so now and the front brakes have seemed to get weaker over time. I can pull the handle and it goes almost to the grip and barely grabs, I can push the bike forward while the brake is pressed.

To me it seems like a bad master cyl, I have one on order and plan on getting some speed bleeders as it seems the wings are hard to bleed. one more thing are the SEI master cyl rebuild kits differnt than the aspy/ interstate?


Thanks
Chris
 

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This is one area I will pay a decent mechanic to do is bleed the front brakes , I can succeed with the rears but never have been able to get the fronts right.
How are the pads?
Have you tried new ones and maybe add some fluid and pump the lever.?
Then you'll know.
 

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On the 1200, you have the "linked brakes" unless it's been converted. This means the front brake activates only one of the two rotors (the left one), and the rear brake activates the front right one in addition to the rear.

Just something to keep in mind while you troubleshoot.
 

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The pads look great, The rears feel good and the pads were just done on them before I bought it. Maybe I will ask the stealership how much it is for them to do the work, hopefully not much as I am unemployed and Obama hasn't sent me a motorcycle welfare check.
 

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Join the club. Very common complaint with 1100/1200 owners, including myself. I've done everything known to man for my front brake short of replacing the pads and the whole MC trying to get it to work, but no-go. Very scary thing riding two up, let me tell you.



I'll probably just take it to the dealer as suggested. But I can't imagine they would do anything different than what I've already done...
 

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I never deal with a Honda dealer ( except for a part ), cost too much, take too long and may refuse to work on your old bike anyway.
Luckily I have an independant mech shop only a few miles away , he will always drop what he's doing to change my tires right away.
It took Honda 5 days to do a tire change on a wheel I dropped off.!!!!!
You aren't finding any leaks are you ??? Make sure your hoses are good.
 

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It could simply be air in the line but also keep in mind that over time the rubber flex lines become weak and will expand when the brake handle is depressed and as a consequence full hydraulic pressure is not achieved at the caliper. Visibly ,they look fine but they may actually be weak. One way to check is put a few small clamps at various points along the line and depress the brake handle . Dont overly tighten the clamps, just snug them up. If you then have less brake lever travel than you know the line is expanding. I know you are on a limited budget but the best replacement is stainless steel lines. They are expensive butthey will not expand Brakes are not something that you want to scrimp on.............the above is something else for you to check along with the pads, master cylinder, air in the line etc. ...................GM
 

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Sure sounds like air in the system, or old fluid with lots of moisture in it. Seems like even if the hoses are bad, you would not be able to push the bike with the lever pulled.?? I'd bet a flush would do it. jimsjinx
 

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I have found that the front calipers on the 1200's can be loaded with road grime, brake dust and crud. You mentioned the front pads had been replaced. When the mechanic compressed the pistons into the calipers, that build-up of crud can actually lock the pistons in the caliper and prevent them from extending. It only takes a few moments to pull the caliper and pads for inspection. When the caliper is off the strut, gently operate the brake lever and observe the pistons.. If they extend easily (both of them) then suspect air in the system or a bad master cyl.
 

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Well I bled the front brake and got some nasty looking fluid out but the feel is just about the same maybe a little better.

So I guess my question is does the front brake feel weak beacuse its only one caliper and the rear controls the front and rear?

Here are some pics of the fluid I got out. ran about 2 MC reservoirs full of fluid through it.

 

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My front brake has been a bit squishy lately, as well. I figured the problem was with old fluid and decided to change the fluid in my front brake today since there was a holiday. I ended the day by ordering a new O ring for the junction between the metal part of the master cylinder and the plastic basin that holds the fluid. It was leaking pretty good and I had not noticed. I went ahead and bought a stainless brake line, too because I noticed that it said 1982 on it. I think 27 years is long enough. Can't wait to put it together sometime soon.
 

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Try pumping the brake until it is the best it's going to get then while holding the lever strap it to the handlebar with a bungee cord and let it sit an hour or more. Then if it is still holding crack loose the banjo bolt on the MC until fluid starts to come out, tighten it before all the pressure is gone. If it holds pressure the MC is OK, if not it may need a rebuild if there are no leaks anywhere else.
While it sits have the handlebars turned all the way left so the MC is higher than the hose.
 

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I zip tied the lever done overnight and it was still holding, so maybe I am just used to more pressure coming from a Abs equipped St 1300.
 

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hello, the speedbleeders are great, they made easy work of bleeding on my aspy.

The front brakes can be a devil to get up to pressure, after changing the fluids, it took me several goes over several days. before it gave in.

The main culprit, is the banjo bolt, at the master cylinder, it holds air in there somehow, before bleeding, protect any painted area, or the fluid will damage it.

loosen the banjo bolt, pull the lever in, hold it, and tighten the bolt. keep going until the air disappears, then bleed the caliper.

the rear brake, is linked to the right hand front brake, after changing the fliud, bleed the front brake first, then then the rear. I never had any trouble with air being held up anywhere in the linked system.

good luck,
 

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Oldwinger is right it about getting the air out of the front lines. Air wants to go up and due to the small amount of fluid it is hard to get the air pushed down and out.



Another note for troubleshootingsoft front brake problems.



Take a wide set of needle nose pliers and crimp the brake hose right after the Master Cyl. Be carefull to not cut the line you want just enough pressure to stop the flow. Then squeeze the handle. It should pump up hard and stay that way. If you can squeeze it all the way or it goes down after a bit then you have a bad Master.



If it is hard and stays that way you have air in the line.
 

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i had the same problem on my 1200 interstate,new pads,piston seals,caliper bushesand put a m/c rebuild kit it, i tried the zip tie on the lever, bled and bled it till i was blue in the face,still didnt cure it, finally i bought a stainless steel braided hose kit, 5 minutes after fitting it i had an excellent front brake
 

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Just a thought. Check to be sure your fork seals are good. If they are leaking fork oil, the oil will make its way onto the rotor and pads which will also create the ineffective front brake you describe. Good luck
 
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