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So - I've got a VM built in to the fairing where the CB usually goes.

It's always read about 2v lower than actual battery voltage, thus I know when it's reading 12VDC I'm actually at 14VDC±

Now, when riding in to work this morning, at cruising speed (3800 RPM) I was reading 10~11VDC (actually 12-13VDC)

At idle, no brakes applied, high beams on it reads back at 12VDC.

You'd think that it would be lower at idle... rather than high RPMs...

I know someone, somewhere has the answer... any takers?
 

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I would check with a multimeter to verify exactly what voltages you are getting and when.
At idle with lights on etc. you should read about 12V. or slightly higher , as you increase rpm past about 2000 you should read charging voltage of approx. 14V.
A new Vmeter for Christmas ???
 

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+1 on the new volt meter. It sounds like it's a little out of adjustment or something. Check with a multimeter to verify. I would check the battery with the bike off, at idle, and at 2k+ RPMs just to make sure. Off, it should read around 12.5 volts. On, it should be about the same. and at higher RPMs it would be higher (13.5 - 14+ roughly)
 

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This has happened before, don't know if it applies to interstates or even all years of 1200s but some have a radio noise suppressor connected between the regulator and the main harness that can cause this issue.
 

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I keep telling everyone, this is normal for the 1200. Mine has done it through several stator and VR changes, since day 1, back in May of 1987.
 

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People always make the mistake that amperage and voltage are mutually joined. That is not always the case. When the battery voltage is at a "regulated" level and a load is added, amperage increases and voltage drops.

The meter reading 2 volts below actual battery voltage is not "abnormal", but it is not good. Chances are the meter is tied into a system source and not directly reading battery voltage. For a true reading, it should be fed by a relay off the battery terminal, on an accurate gauge.

Double check your voltage at the battery and ensure it isn't reading over 14.4 volts @ 3000 rpm. If it is, you have an insuffficient battery source voltage to the regulator and could be overcharging the battery.
 

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Also make sure your fan can spin freely. Mine was stuck once and sucked the voltage out of her when she tried to cool the motor. Once the shroud was realigned, all was fine again.
 

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glhonda wrote:
People always make the mistake that amperage and voltage are mutually joined. That is not always the case. When the battery voltage is at a "regulated" level and a load is added, amperage increases and voltage drops.

The meter reading 2 volts below actual battery voltage is not "abnormal", but it is not good. Chances are the meter is tied into a system source and not directly reading battery voltage. For a true reading, it should be fed by a relay off the battery terminal, on an accurate gauge.

Double check your voltage at the battery and ensure it isn't reading over 14.4 volts @ 3000 rpm. If it is, you have an insuffficient battery source voltage to the regulator and could be overcharging the battery.
Gl, I was just about to finally get around to installing my VM and have it all wired now & ready to feed the wires through the bike & I ready your reply to this post. As I was going to hook directly to the battery thro' a 30 amp fuse. but what is the relay you speak of & how big do I need? Sorry azdesertdad for the hijack. Angela:waving::?:waving::waving:
 

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I'd 1st focus on the difference on volt readings between the bike's voltmeter and the voltage read from multi-meter. If there is a 2 volt split at idle, can you get to back of volt meter and check volts at connections with mutimeter?

If volts on multi meter match whats on bikes volt meter taken from this point then you can likely dismiss the voltmeter being faulty.

Be sure however to use both input wires to meterwhen checking as this will check ground integrity as well as power wire voltage. A faulty ground for the bikes volt meter would also cause this issue. Once checking at 2 input wires to meter put neg. probe direct to neg battery terminal. An increased volt read means faulty ground to meter.

If volts taken at back of meter match then you have to look at wiring. With all connections from battery through ignition switch to fuseblock intact and in good shape you should be able to tap the source for bikes voltmeter input from any circuit thatgets live with key in on or acc. The main point is you have to tap into circuit BEFORE any voltage consumer on that circuit or you will testingafter the voltage drop in that circuit.

As GLmentioned running a relay is a good idea however I'm curious since youmentioned it's always read differentdid you or a PO install it.



Angela, the main reason for a relay is so that the voltmeter shuts off when the key is turned off preventing battery drain. It's a good idea to install a relay with multiple sets of contacts so that futureelectrical items can be added and controlled by relay easily. These relays have normally open and normally closed contacts allowing you to customize what you are controlling. Why a 30 amp fuse for your meter. Unless you are installing an ammeter or a voltmeter thats combined with an additonal fuse block you can use smaller wire for voltmeter as it requires very little power.
 

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What a bunch of great info! You guys are great.

I suppose I should mention that as long as I've had the bike (bought in May of 2010) the VM has been rock steady indicating 12.2VDC~12.5VDC - it's only been in the last week that it's been flaky.

I did replace the battery about a month ago - just checked the electrolyte too, it's fine - but again, it's been rock steady until very recently.

I know for certain that the VM is running out of the fuse block on top of the air cleaner. I think I'm going to dig in to this, this weekend with my multimeter and see what I can find.

More to come as it develops.
 

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Use the diagram in this post for voltage checks.

http://www.goldwingfacts.com/forums/forum1/122017.html

Angela, you can use this diagram too, just ignore the regulator circuit.

All you need is an ignition source at point "A". That will close the relay and allow battery voltage directly to the meter. A 10 amp fuse is more than sufficient, and should be placed as close to the battery as possible.
 

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well butter my butt and call me a biscuit.

I found the issue...

The main fuse (blade fuse holder that I replaced the dogbone with) has a black cap on it to keep the elements out.

In 32 years of playing with vehicles, I've never seen a fuse of that type just... come loose...

that's what the issue was. I re-seated the fuse and now everything is back to normal.

I took a 300 mile ride today, and had ZERO issues. I even put a DVM on it... it's all good now.

I'm now having another issue, which I may open a new thread on. Not sure yet.
 

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azdesertdad wrote:
well butter my butt and call me a biscuit.

I found the issue...

The main fuse (blade fuse holder that I replaced the dogbone with) has a black cap on it to keep the elements out.

In 32 years of playing with vehicles, I've never seen a fuse of that type just... come loose...

that's what the issue was. I re-seated the fuse and now everything is back to normal.

I took a 300 mile ride today, and had ZERO issues. I even put a DVM on it... it's all good now.

I'm now having another issue, which I may open a new thread on. Not sure yet.
Congratulations Dad but don't fel bad. This sort of thing has happened to all of us @ 1 thime or anudder. hehehe:badgrin::badgrin::badgrin:
 

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Don I have another question for ya. I am a about to run the wire back to Baby's battery for my VM,when I do the stator test but I remember some one commenting on relays & fuse size. I have a 30 a fuse that I was going to use but I read where a 10 is enough but I didn't know i needed a relay. What size would I need if one is needed? Here is a pic of my VN & my switch panel. Cheers & thanks Angela:waving:


 
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