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Hello... first thing im wondering is, why when i release the throttle it takes a second or two for the engine start breaking the bike and as i pull it the throtle again i can feel a delay for the bike to start pulling again, like if there was some worn gear or something, it feels like when a chain driven bike, with big chain slack, the delay is a little big bigger on lower gears, it feels less on higher gears. i dont know if this is a good way to describe it, but if you have owned a chain driven bike, you if the slack is bigger, it takes a second or two for the chain to get tight and start moving the rear wheel and when you release the throttle it takes another time for the chain to get tight on the other side and then you start feeling the engine braking. i hope you get the idea. but im wondering if this is normal or what could be wrong?. there are no strange or ugly noises from the drive train when this happens.

another thing, i never get above 4500 rpms, a couple of days ago, i did first and second gears till 5000 rpms and i had the feeling that the engine was vibrating a lot, like if it was running rough, it had plenty of power but just a strange vibration feeling. and once i changed to the next gear it would go away untill it reached the 5000 rpms. could it be carb synchronization problem? i did my carbs last year with randalls kit and always running premium fuel. i've run sea foam like 3 or 4 tanks ago.


when i pull from a stop, as im releasing the clutch and it starts to engage i feel a strange vibration and it is gone once the clutch is completely engaged runs very smooth. it does not slip in hard acceleration or when taking off from a stop at high rpms. could also be carb synchronization? cuz when i pull the throttle lets say in third gear at 2000 rpms it vibrates untill reaching 3000 rpm

i had made a home made synchro tool but i could never get to perfectly synchronizate my carbs. the only shop that has this tool will charge me $50 us dollar, thats a little much in mexican pesos for me just for a 30 mins job. even if i bring it ready for it :(


i think thats all for now. :dude:
 

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Hey William_86,

You are going to want to hear for more of the guys on this, but here's my hunch.

Your mileage is up there into the samerangewhere I tohadexperienced at least a couple of these with mine. ;)

You should suspect drivetrain wear and review what you've done regarding:

1. Final Drive upkeep - thereis a lube requirement [like at 10K I believe] most guys look after it when they do rear tire changes.

2. Clutch state-of-service - Still got the factory original? Maybe she's tellin' you she's through.:p ->OR<- :cool:did you get clever andadd an additive in the case oil? Ya' know that's a "wet" clutch I believe, they don't take tookindly :Xto jazzy stuff in the spec'd oil!

3. That Avatar pic, that the bike in question? 1200? They're runnin' a hydraulic clutch aren't they? Well, couldn't hurt to check your fluid in that circuit :gunhead:if I'm right.

Anyway I realize we're both doin' nite duty here and so you probably weren't expecting to hear from anyone just yet. But I hate to see a guy hangin' in the breeze with a concern. Best 'o' Luck to ya'
 

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William, I suspect you may have an ignition breakdown at high RPM causing the vibration, not synchronization. Carb synch is not the magic cure all many think it is, it is only noticeable at low RPM with very little throttle, after maybe 1/4 throttle at most a tiny difference in the throttle opening does not matter.
A little slack in the drive train is normal but you should put the bike on the center stand, in gear and turn the rear wheel to check how much slack. 1 to 2 inches I don't think would be too much.
The vibration when taking off if it happens with very little throttle could be the carb synch but could also be the clutch chattering if a plate is warped. It could also be an ignition problem the same as the high RPM vibration.
Check plugs, caps, wires and coils.
A home made synch tool (clear tubing with oil in it) is more sensitive than gauges so getting it perfect is more difficult but more accurate. If you got it close with that a gauge set would probably show it to be perfect.
 

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One of Randakks tips covers inspecting the driveshaft u joint. I would do that first. Then pull the back wheel and final drive and inspect the splines of the coupling back there.
 

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I would do an over all inspection of bolt tightness, things get loose have a tendency to move under sudden load. Motor mount bolts at least.
 

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The driveline does have a fair bit of slack. You'll probably find you can rock the wheel 2 inches either way when on the mainstand and in gear. As for the vibes- I think it's endemic, though some are worse than others. Mine wouldn't like full throttle below about 2800 revs. I've readtests that complained about thiswhen the bike was brand new.They do get awful busy sounding at high revs too. Not Honda's best engine I should say, maybe a stretch too far? On the plus side, the engines are pretty strong. Steve
 

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regarding the last maintenance i've done....
around 5k miles changed the rear tire and lubed the splines which looked worn, i bleed the clutch with new fluid.

i mean, there is a vibration/roughness feeling above the 5,000 rpms, i have shifted at 7500 and the engine seems to have even more power at those rpms
 
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