Wes's gl1100 Alternator or Poor Boy Conversion

The first thing to do is take the seat, left crash bar, false tank, and radiator off the bike.



I made The lower alternator bracket out of some stock metal I had laying around.





Lower brkt bolted by the engine bolt.

This shows the radiator removed and how far I bent the horn mounts out of the way.





The center of the bolt marked for the pulley.




The hole saw used for the hole in the timing belt covers.
Make sure the gasket is removed before drilling.



The hole for the pulley.




8 Ga wire with 40 Amp self resetting fuse before I Plastic dip it.



Routing of 8 ga wire from battery to alternator.





Lower brkt for alternator with bolt welded in place. I did not care for the first brkt.




Lower brkt. I took the heat shield off the bike. Using the vertical brace as a template for holes.



Heat shield removed.




Alternator with the third leg sawed off.




The bolt welded on was too short. I made the third lower bracket
so it would cover some of the cutting of the heat shield.

These are the lower fairing bracket. These have been cut and will be reversed
When installed.







This is a plate to move the cover bolt over 1 inch so it will miss the pulley.
Tap the left hole so a bolt will fit.




I used the cover bolt and cut it off.



This plate is installed permanently to move the cover bolt over one inch.



Bolt fits in cover.





This is how it fits. I did not cover the old hole.




Cutting of the heat shield is a hit and miss. Cut it so the alternator misses the shield. I cut too much and that is why my lower bracket was made bigger
to cover some of my over cutting.
Lower alternator bracket is installed




Looking at the heat shield cutting and lower bracket in place.

7/8 inch Hanger ring. Can be found at Lowe's or any big box DIY store.




You can see the hanger installed on the right.




Hanger in place.




The spacer for the bottom of the alternator.
I used electrical conduit.




The hanger is used for the belt tensioner.
I used thread all and nuts doubled to keep it from moving.
I did not try to make an arc as the alternator has very little room.
My previous alternator never needed altered after first install.




View of belt tensioner.



Not much clearance.



Very little room.

Pulley, Stock washer with hole enlarged, and 60mm bolt.




Pulley installed.




Belt installed. Tighten the belt to snug.




Clamp a straight edge on the pulley.






Straight edge shows I am perfectly aligned from pulley to alt. If not aligned put some spacers
on the bottom of the alt.





Radiator as it comes off the bike.




Shroud cut off by rad filler tube. I cut too much off the right side.




rad filler tube.


Both legs welded and extended. Blades hacked.





New position for fan.




1 inch spacer for lower radiator.





Rad in place using the spacer. Do not forget to put the lower fairing brkt on. This pic I forgot to put the bottom radiator on.




1 inch chevy truck spacer and gaskets.



spacer installed.




Lower hose attached.


To put the top rad hose on. I took the alt back off. Put the hose on, AND
DO NOT FORGET TO PLUG THE FAN WIRE BACK TOGETHER.
Install the alt again.

Rad installed.





Unplug the regulator plug. This disconnects the stater. Leave in place
for a back up in case something goes wrong with the alt.
I used the black wire in this plug to connect my
exciter wire for the alt. This plug is keyed to the ignition key.


The alternator connections.




Fill your radiator with the correct coolant and enjoy.

Finished the alternator conversion.
No plastic had to be cut.





Now one can add any number of lights, Heated clothing, Gloves with out reaching the max amps.

I am installing a second fuse box. I will be adding any new lights etc.. to this new fuse box.
I think it will be better than using the 30+year old wires to put this new current to use.

Hope you learned something here.