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What brand of coolant that can be found easily at most auto supply or Wally world do you recommend?
 

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None of them. If you do not wish to pay the high price for the Honda pre-mix, just go by a Honda Car dealer and purchase it there. Same thing, and half the price.

Coolant is important to an engine, should be changed every two years, and if not, with time it is the coolant that deteriorates the head gaskets and seals and so on, so a few bucks for coolant is a very good investment in your machine.

Kit
 

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Thanks for the input Carson. It's not the price but the convienance. I just changed my head gaskets yesterday and want to run the bike today. The honda shop is closed today. Can I run with just distilled water for now? I'm not going riding just want to check that everything is in working order.
 

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tallyho wrote:
Thanks for the input Carson. It's not the price but the convienance. I just changed my head gaskets yesterday and want to run the bike today. The honda shop is closed today. Can I run with just distilled water for now? I'm not going riding just want to check that everything is in working order.
Certainly you can use distilled water just to check things out. Just means you have to drain the system again to add coolant, but might save cost in the long run if you were to have a leak.

No harm in that.

Kit
 

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Kit Carson wrote:
tallyho wrote:
Thanks for the input Carson. It's not the price but the convienance. I just changed my head gaskets yesterday and want to run the bike today. The honda shop is closed today. Can I run with just distilled water for now? I'm not going riding just want to check that everything is in working order.
Certainly you can use distilled water just to check things out. Just means you have to drain the system again to add coolant, but might save cost in the long run if you were to have a leak.

No harm in that.

Kit
I have half a brain sometimes, I came back to see if you lived up north, would not want water to freeze and bust the motor, but as you are in florida it is cool.
 

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I'm also going to change all the seals on the water pump. I've read on the forum somewhere that there's a cross over seal that can go bad and let water into the oil. Where would that be located? I changed the head gaskets do to poor running. The engine would only run with the choke engaged. Noticed that the valve covers were unusually hot. Checked the coolant level which I had just changed and topped of to notice it was very low (nearly empty). I checked the oil and noticed a white milky substance on the dip stick. Drained the oil and it was a light brown milky color. Is ther another way water could have gotten in besides the head gasket. When I pulled them they appeard to be in pretty good shape.
 

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Kit Carson wrote:
Kit Carson wrote:
tallyho wrote:
Thanks for the input Carson. It's not the price but the convienance. I just changed my head gaskets yesterday and want to run the bike today. The honda shop is closed today. Can I run with just distilled water for now? I'm not going riding just want to check that everything is in working order.
Certainly you can use distilled water just to check things out. Just means you have to drain the system again to add coolant, but might save cost in the long run if you were to have a leak.

No harm in that.

Kit
I have half a brain sometimes, I came back to see if you lived up north, would not want water to freeze and bust the motor, but as you are in florida it is cool.
it's okay. It's still eary and you've probably not had your coffee yet.:D
 

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Water could get into the oil via some of the O rings in & around the water pump & front cover. If you had no bubbles coming up in the rad than I would suspect this area was your problem. If you are going to the trouble of head gaskets etc, then I'd pull the front cover & go through the cooling system as well.



As for type of coolant, just use what the bike's manual says. Types of antifireeze have changed based on age of bike you have. ie: my 77 just calls for ordinary 50/50 mixedantifireeze suitable for aluminum engines nothing fancy. I do run the Honda type but its not required for this year of bike. Change it periodically is what matters.
 

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Well the brown color of the oil is for sure a sign of water in the oil. And the white substance on the dipstick shows it has been going on for some time. Oil turns brown with water in it and will eventually turn completely the color of milk.

I suppose it depends on what you found when you removed the heads and looked at the gaskets, you should have seen any area that has been leaking, maybe, should have been able too.

As for rebuilding a water pump, not only with bikes but with cars, both buying them and trying it myself, I have simply learned to go buy a new one. Install a new thermostat too while there, just for GP. Then you are done, no having to go do it again.

I have tried to rebuild the seals and rotating ceramic seals on water pumps in my trade several times, and even totally cleaned up, all the care taken in the world, and to wear rubber gloves when handling the seals to prevent a fingerprint on the surface of the seal, that just somehow, there is enough wear on the shaft to allow it to wallow a bit and normally does not last long.

So now if dealing with a water pump, it is just a new one.

Kit
 

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I could see no visible signs of wear on the gaskets however I'm not sure exactly what I would be looking for. So should I test it out with the current pump installed before I plunk down the cash for a new one?
 

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At WallyWorld, Prestone Longlife.



Remember that what ever you put , Make sure it is SILICATE FREE antifreeze.



Most long life antifreeze that are Pink or Orange are silicate free
 

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I started the bike and the oil looks good (no milky residue) and stays golden brown. Temp looks okay as well. Problem is the bike won't run unless the choke is engaged. When I try and give throttle it hesitates like it's going to quite but doesn't. The bike won't run at all even if I start it with the choke then back it off. It won't start at all without the choke. I recently rebuilt the carbs and it seemed to run fine initially. I don't see any obvious vacum leaks.



Please help!!!





:?
 

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cycleman wrote:
As for type of coolant, just use what the bike's manual says. Types of antifireeze have changed based on age of bike you have. ie: my 77 just calls for ordinary 50/50 mixedantifireeze suitable for aluminum engines nothing fancy. I do run the Honda type but its not required for this year of bike. Change it periodically is what matters.
:waving:When our bikes were built antifreeze didn't have silicates in it and that is why is does make a difference what type of antifreeze you put in your vintage GoldWing. You do need to use a silicate free coolant otherwise eventually the water pump seals will be damaged. The Honda Type 2 antifreeze which is prediluted and silicate free can be bouhgt at your local Honda auto dealer in gallon quantities which is cheaper that buying it by the quart at you local Honda bike dealer.
 

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I second the Prestone long life. Readily available at Wal-mart.
 

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83GoldWinger wrote:
cycleman wrote:
As for type of coolant, just use what the bike's manual says. Types of antifireeze have changed based on age of bike you have. ie: my 77 just calls for ordinary 50/50 mixedantifireeze suitable for aluminum engines nothing fancy. I do run the Honda type but its not required for this year of bike. Change it periodically is what matters.
:waving:When our bikes were built antifreeze didn't have silicates in it and that is why is does make a difference what type of antifreeze you put in your vintage GoldWing. You do need to use a silicate free coolant otherwise eventually the water pump seals will be damaged. The Honda Type 2 antifreeze which is prediluted and silicate free can be bouhgt at your local Honda auto dealer in gallon quantities which is cheaper that buying it by the quart at you local Honda bike dealer.
Silicate was & is used as a corrosion inhibitor in antifreeze for aluminum engines.It has been around since aluminum engines became popular.It wasn't needed back inthe non- aluminum engineday. If you don't change it as required the silicates can separate out of the mixture. That's what can cause problems in the cooling system. Another issue when mixing antifreeze is to use distilled water not tap water. Silicate free antifreeze is a relatively new type of antifreeze that allows for longer runs between changes as there is no silicate to separate out.



In actuality using a non silicate antifreeze in an older wing may contribute to some leaks. As stated above just follow the manufactures recommendations. For my 77 they specify asI've noted above.
 
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