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Vintage Rider
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Can anyone tell me what these parts (circled) actually do? I believe the cause of my squeaking noise in coming form these parts. They appear to be a reed valve controlled system designed to inject air into the exhaust system, and if so they are nothing but an emissions control contraption that has nothing to do with how the engine runs. I have had 3 other bikes with systems like this, and I removed all of them. If that is what this system is, does anyone know how to remove/disable/plug it? It would seem that it might also cause a possible vacuum leak if there is a problem with it.

http://tinyurl.com/3npsqlr
 

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Piled Higher and Deeper
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Why not show it??
 

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Anti-Guru
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The PAIR system allows fresh air into the hot exhaust stream between exhaust pulses under certain vacuum comditions...

You'll fins a bunch of discussion on the use and disabling of Pulsed Air Injection systems or Reacive Air Induction systems (depending on designer), but most offer that the air injection will ac to lean-out the exhaust during decelleration where carbs will typically go very rich. IN a Catalytic system, the air can be used to help supoprt down-stream catalitic modification of the exhaust gasses, in non-cat systems leaning the exhaust will help to avoid re-ignition in the pipes (decel popping) and also helps to reduce the decel emission of the exhaust (mostly by controlled dilution of the exhaust stream, but alos by supporting some decomposition/modification of the still quite-hot exhaust componant gasses.

In brief, PAIR should help to reduce decellration popping, and to dilute rich exhaust mixtures common with carbs and decelleration. As post-power production, it should not impact how the bike produces or uses its power.
 

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Thanks for the information. I don't know why the link didn't work, other links I have posted worked ok. I do not yet know how to post pictures, I'm assuming you have to have them on photobucket.

I have positively identified the source of the "squeaking" noise coming from my engine. It is coming from that box in the middle that all 4 air lines connect to, the ones going to the exhaust ports. I have one off right now. There is a rubber hose connected to the box (which appears to have a reed valve in it) which then connects to the metal line that goes to the exhaust port. By removing the entire intake for each cylinder (the manifold, fuel injector, the part the fuel injector fits into, and the connector between the fuel line and injector, necessary to remove the injector) I was able to remove the section of rubber hose, and the metal air pipe. I intend to cap off the inside end of the metal pipe and reinstall it, to plug the opening in the exhaust port. I will then cap off the fitting on the box to keep dirt out. I am going to do this to all 4 cylinders, which will stop air movement through the system, and will hopefully stop the noise.

I have removed similar systems from 3 other bikes with excellent results, this is basically the same thing, but is more complicated, and you can't get to to all the parts without removing the entire intake system. Hopefully plugging it up will be enough.

Oh, one more thing. Before I go any farther with this, I am assuming that you do not have to "reshim" the fuel injectors if you do not take them apart, and if you put them back in the same place they came from. Is that correct? Thanks, Jerry.
 

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The upper parts would be the idle speed control. You really don't want to remove that, if it's working correctly. IE: fast idle, and as engine warms up, the idle slowly reduces down to stop screw setting.

The other parts are to assist in back-fire problems. Without them, it will back-fire bad when rolling throttle to idle, while moving at any kind of speed. I wouldn't remove them either. Just make sure the reeds and hoses are in good shape.

When all is in place, and good vacuum, the thing runs perfectly, assuming good ecu, sensors, etc.

. No re-shim on injectors.
 

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At this point there is no way to get to the reeds. That will have to wait until winter. It's 110+ here now, with high humidity. Getting to the reeds requires removing EVERTYHING. Right now I just hope that plugging the lines to the exhaust ports will stop the noise. The rubber hoses between the reed valve box were rotted anyway, and the one I took off split when I tried to pry it off. I may just replace the hoses, and put something in them to plug them up. On the Kawasaki Vulcan 750, most owners either remove the system completely, or remove the hoses (which are bigger) and put marbles in them to stop the air flow. On most bikes, removing or disabling this system makes the bike run better. It actually reduced popping on deceleration, which is basically a lean backfire, because without the system it does not lean out the exhaust too much. This system is strictly an emissions control system, it's purpose is to reduce emissions by continuing to burn some of the unburned fuel in the exhaust by introducing oxygen into the exhaust. It works the same as the GM AIR (air injection reactor) system did back on '70s cars before EFI. It actually had a pump, which was referred to as a "smog pump" Anyway, I will plug it, and see what happens. So far I have not had any problems with backfiring on deceleration. Older bikes with richer air/fuel mixtures ran fine without this setup. I wonder if the original GL1000 had it?


Thanks for explaining about that "air valve" I will leave it alone. Engine starts and runs fine, just makes that awful squeaking noise.

BTW, I passed through Medford, OR on my way to Portland and back (in a car) a couple weeks ago. Stopped for gas both times. They sure have a strange deal in OR, a station attendant wearing an orange vest has to pump the gas. No self serve stations. Do they do that with motorcycles too?
 

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Motorcyclist can actually legally dispense the fuel into the bike, but they're not sposed to touch the actual pump. Altho, some do the whole thing, and many attendants simply "Don't know the whole law". The market type fuel stops, are pretty good about that. The attendant type thing helps to keep our fuel more expensive. Gotta pay for those bodies hangin' around. But, it "creates ""jobs"". TIC
 

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Oregonwinger wrote:
The other parts are to assist in back-fire problems. Without them, it will back-fire bad when rolling throttle to idle, while moving at any kind of speed. I wouldn't remove them either. Just make sure the reeds and hoses are in good shape.
Can you explain what the difference is between the Wing and the Valk PAIR system? A lot of us Valk owners have 'de-smogged' our bikes to eliminate the backfiring and noisy reed valve problems. And on the Valks it looks a lot cleaner, too. I think I read a thread that indicated the PAIR system on the Wing plays a slightly different role in advancing and retarding timing. Is that right?
 

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As far as timing, I don't think so. It's just a way to pump air into the exhaust, to help completely burn unburned fuel coming from the exhaust port. Unfortunately, it creates a very lean mixture in the exhaust, which causes backfiring, and also causes the exhaust to run hotter. Cars with a system had an "anti-backfire valve", but I don't remember how it worked.

Right now I am simply removing the rubber hoses between the reed valve chamber and the metal pipes that go to the exhaust ports, and capping everything off with rubber vacuum caps. Thats 8 caps total, 4 on the reed valve assembly, and 4 more, 1 on each metal pipe that goes to the exhaust port. This should stop all air flow through the system, and stop the noise, which is probably coming from the reed valve itself.

The Valkyrie should be similar, but it has 6 cylinders. I'm not sure what all the differences are between the Valkyrie and the GL1500. I know the GL only has 2 carbs, and hydraulic valves, but I don't know anything about the emissions systems.

My Vulcan 750 had a system like this, plus a CA evap system. By the time I got it all off, I had about 25 pounds worth of junk. I had to cap off 2 vacuum fittings, the 2 fittings on the heads where the air injector hoses went to, and 3 holes in the airbox. But it did look a lot cleaner, and ran better, no backfiring, and with the evap system gone, you could actually fill the tank all the way up without killing the engine.
 
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