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Picked up this '84 just a week ago. It's been sitting for over 6yrs.
It's all complete and has been stored in garage. Doesn't run yet, drained all the gas from the tank, freed up throttle which was very tight, bled clutch which was filled with air.
I have a set of working carbs that I want to swap in but I want to flush existing carbs on bike enough to try to start before I pull everything apart.
I plan to drain carbs then pump in fresh gas with berrymans additive or seafoam and drain a couple times then see if it'll start up.
Any better suggestions out there ?
Later.
 

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...take them off and take them apart.
 

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I have heard of folks filling the carbs with Seafoam and let them sit for a few hours/days. Then they drain the seafoam out and put in fresh gas. If it runs and idles on all 4 (doubtful) you are the luckiest guy I've met. The problem is the slow speed or idle jets. They don't actually sit far enough into the float bowls to get Seafoam soaked. There is also the idle mixture circuit which will not get cleaned by any other method except to pull them. When you decide you've had enough trying to clean them on the bike then here is a great tip that I got from Randakks site. Remove the jets and boil them for 15 to 20 minutes using only distilled water. Yep in the kitchen on the stove is fine. There will be no calcium build up if you boil distilled water like you would with tap or filtered/bottled water.
 

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I have heard of folks filling the carbs with Seafoam and let them sit for a few hours/days. Then they drain the seafoam out and put in fresh gas. If it runs and idles on all 4 (doubtful) you are the luckiest guy I've met. The problem is the slow speed or idle jets. They don't actually sit far enough into the float bowls to get Seafoam soaked. There is also the idle mixture circuit which will not get cleaned by any other method except to pull them. When you decide you've had enough trying to clean them on the bike then here is a great tip that I got from Randakks site. Remove the jets and boil them for 15 to 20 minutes using only distilled water. Yep in the kitchen on the stove is fine. There will be no calcium build up if you boil distilled water like you would with tap or filtered/bottled water.
 

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1987 GL1200 Interstate
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If you have the other carbs, just put them on. Bikes that sit 6 weeks can have carb problems that require removal. What you are contemplating is just going to be a waste of time.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
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Yeah, I ended up just taking them off and swapping in the other set I have. Tried to start today and found out the fuel pump is non-op, so got a syringe and squirted a few ounces in there and it fired up. Smoked some for a while but settled down and idled good. Now I got to take care of the fuel pump issue so I can take a test ride. Later.
 

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Had to replace my fuel pump, got one on E Bay $70 with the relay. As Dennis asked, do you have the manuals ? If not i can send you a CD with most of the manuals on it.Also the fuel pump only operates while the engine is running.

Jim
 

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Dennis and Jim I do have a factory manual. Jim, was that a new one for $70.? good deal. All the ones I see on ebay are used and for about 4/5 the cost of a new one.
 

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1987 GL1200 Interstate
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CBX n GL man wrote:
Dennis and Jim I do have a factory manual. Jim, was that a new one for $70.? good deal. All the ones I see on ebay are used and for about 4/5 the cost of a new one.
New for '84 through '86 are still available for $120 bucks.

http://www.westernhonda.com/fiche_section_detail.asp?section=146636&category=MOTORCYCLES&make=HONDA&year=1986&fveh=3448

Make sure it's the pump. I think you have to test them according to the Honda manual. They only pump with certain signals.
 

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Used----- If Dennis has a source for a new OEM fuel pump for $120, i would go for it, once your sure it the pump.Mine was blowing the ign. fuse evert time i hooked it up and turned the key.


Jim
 

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Well I was almost positive it was the pump, but now that Jim said it had to be tested by the book and not on the bat. I'm starting to wonder. Also how can I test the relay and is it needed, I tested the terminals coming from the relay at the plug with the key on and there is no power at the plug? Is there something here that I'm missing in checking elect. flow. Thanks. Later.
 

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Not me,Dennis.But since you can get it running, you should have voltage at the pump, unless the relay is bad. But i would think hot wiring the pump, it should run.As long as the bike sat it would not surprise me it's bad.Mine pump was fine befor it sat lost for 3 years and bad when i got it back.
I'm sure others that know the correct procedure to test both will chime in.

Jim
 

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Ken, thats what I figured but was advised differently. Besides the pump not working there seems to be no power to the plug so got to trace that back. Later.
 

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CBX n GL man wrote:
Ken, thats what I figured but was advised differently. Besides the pump not working there seems to be no power to the plug so got to stace that back. Later.
The pump doesn't get power without the bike running, the test in the manual just fools the relay into thinking that the bike is running or the relay could be bad. Whatever the power issue is or isn't if you hot wire the pump and it doesn't run it's fubared.
 

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CBX--- Have you checked Dennis's source ( Western Honda ) if they have the pump for $120, Just curoius.

:?:? Jim
 

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Just called Western Honda, they checked the part # and said it was still available at the web. price.Hope it stays that way when the order is actualy placed.

Jim
 
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