[77GL1]

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This wire came off the GL1000 (seen in avatar). I've scraped on it, it's solid as far as I can tell, not coated. I didn't have enough magnet to test it that way. This same wire is what comes off my stator, and found in the '76 harness I got on ebay.

 

[exavid]

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77GL1 wrote:

This wire came off the GL1000 (seen in avatar). I've scraped on it, it's solid as far as I can tell, not coated. I didn't have enough magnet to test it that way. This same wire is what comes off my stator, and found in the '76 harness I got on ebay.

If you're asking what type and size wire is shown in the picture, it's stranded copper, around 16 or 14 gauge.

 

[77GL1]

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How'd it get to be silver colored? I've never seen silver colored copper....and it's very hard to solder. you just have to smuther it with solder and get it much hotter than is typical.

 

[exavid]

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77GL1 wrote:

How'd it get to be silver colored? I've never seen silver colored copper....and it's very hard to solder. you just have to smuther it with solder and get it much hotter than is typical.

Plated copper wire isn't all that rare. Smothering it in solder isn't the key, the key is to have it clean, heat it, then apply the rosin cored solder. A lot of AC zip cord wire is color coded with plating.

 

[77GL1]

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exavid wrote:

Plated copper wire isn't all that rare. Smothering it in solder isn't the key, the key is to have it clean, heat it, then apply the rosin cored solder. A lot of AC zip cord wire is color coded with plating.

I've tried scraping the plate off, can't find any sign of copper.

 

[johnmac]

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77GL1, I'm sure there is copper under that plating. Scraping the plating off will be tough to do.
Be sure the wire is clean, and be sure your fingers are clean when twisting them together.
I have a small tube of rosin that I got at Radio Shack for cleaning wires before soldering. You just apply a small amount and heat it like you are soldering. It will bubble and boil the dirt off.
And yes, the plated wires may need more heat. Be sure your soldering iron has enough wattage to heat the heavy wires. They may not be getting as hot as you think.

 

[77GL1]

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Here's my theory....I think Honda knew how much heat was being put out, and use aluminum in the hope of dissipating heat. The three wire plug coming from the stator is frequently melted on the GL1000s and other models. I'd like to know for sure because it might be a bad idea to replace the wiring from the stator with anything but wire with real good heat dissipation.

 

[twisty]

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77GL1 wrote:

Here's my theory....I think Honda knew how much heat was being put out, and use aluminum in the hope of dissipating heat. The three wire plug coming from the stator is frequently melted on the GL1000s and other models. I'd like to know for sure because it might be a bad idea to replace the wiring from the stator with anything but wire with real good heat dissipation.

77GL1, there shouldn't be ANY heat put out. If that wire is sized correctly it shouldn't heat up. On your 1000 the charging system is only 300 watts so that is less than 8.5 amps per leg. Those wires- be it copper, aluminum, or steel should be able to handle 8.5 amps AC easily.

Even then, if Honda wanted to dissipate heat they wouldn't cover the wires with an insulator covering. Remember aluminum wiring would carry less current than a similar sized copper wire.

Anyways the problem isn't with the wire (I haven't ever seen one burn the wire apart), it's with the terminals & connector. What happens in the terminals build resistance (due to oxidation, battery acid, too small, or whatever),, then the terminals burn & turn black,, then they lose current carrying ability & connection& build more resistance yet,, then the connector melts,, then the terminals touch each other & short out,, then the stator burns..

I'm not exactly sure what those wires are covered with (could be silver or any of the other alloys). But they do solder (aluminum won't solder)..

Twisty

 

[77GL1]

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Well, you're probably right Twisty, but I've tried scraping, cutting and magnifying for a real good look....and just can't see any sign of plating. Sometimes I just have to find out for myself nomatter what everybody says. I'm looking for a way to REALLY find out what this material is.

...they're quite a small qauge (old and flemzy) and I'm considering changing them.

 

[exavid]

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77GL1 wrote:

This wire came off the GL1000 (seen in avatar). I've scraped on it, it's solid as far as I can tell, not coated. I didn't have enough magnet to test it that way. This same wire is what comes off my stator, and found in the '76 harness I got on ebay.

The stuff should solder okay without being scraped off. If all else fails use a crimp connector on that wire. Use a good quality crimp, an uninsulated on. Slip a piece of heat shrink on the wire before crimping and then slide it over the joint and shrink after squeezing. I prefer uninsulated crimps because it allows inspection of the crimp.

 

[77GL1]

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Thanks for the input, but I replaced the plug a couple weeks ago (soldered splice). I believe that I'll want to replace the wires completely before too long because I thought it to be week, old, flemzy....not burnt, but I might want to prevent that in the future.

 

[englishted]

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I don't think you will find copper wire under the silver, it's just the way the thing is made.

 

[exavid]

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I think you're right Ted, I mispoke, (miswrote) when I said plated, the stuff is a different alloy but usually still solders well.