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Okay, I'll make a list and if you would add to it or suggest some priorities. And of course money is going to be an issue. I bought the bike to offset the cost of diesel for my powerstroke (that's another story):

have rebuilt rear brake caliper still dragging, wtf? rear master cylinder rebuild?

front brakes appear to need the same, I have new pads for the front but I fear installing them for pushing the pucks that far back into the caliper and causing them to drag. they need rebuilding also.

occasional hard starting, sounds like starter doesn't get enough power from battery

magical mysterious 3 yellow wire issue...(say no more)

alternator conversion (wait until/if the stator fails?) or should I launch a pre-emptive strike?

tires (no brainer) they have some life left in them but I wont do more than neighborhood runs until they are replaced (my comfort zone)

also need a new battery cover, it evidently flew off sometime this weekend and I never noticed it. Anyone got an extra lying around?

carbs - slow air cut off valve?, spray carb cleaner? it runs VERY rich and I too get poor mileage about 150 miles to a tank (about 30mpg?) seems poor to me...

exhaust - many pin holes and rust



I've read many posts on these topics and have become overwhelmed. In your best opinion (what else would you offer?:D) what should be address first?
 

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that is quite a list for sure.... I wouldn't start with an alternator conversion IF the orginal is working... basically I would start with all the simple things first KISS!

I would start with bleeding out all the brakes/fluids... and make sure the caliper glides are sliding. the three yellow wires and four wires at the selenoid would be next. I would also try some gas/cleaner mixture into thecarbs to see if that works as well

btw... isn't the question "Who's on First?" or is it What's on second?"
 

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Ditto what Matt said.

I have seen Stators go along way once the connecters were fixed.
 

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As for the brakes, I'd check out the master cylinder if the brakes are still dragging and the caliper is free on it's pins. If the master is okay it's time to replace the rubber lines. I never push the pistons back into a caliper unless I've already disassembled it and cleaned the pistons. When you just push one in, all the corrosion and dirt goes with it and can often damage the seal. It makes sense to me to replace the seals when replacing the pads.

Matt is telling you right, if the stator is good leave it alone. After all it lasted this long already! Brakes are the thing to take care of first, not nice if you can't stop. If they are dragging they can heat up and lock up. Not to mention that could be where most of your gas mileage is going. Fix the wires and connectors. Cheap work that, and it pays off. Do the exhaust last, pinholed ones work as good as new ones.

BTW my old 90 Dodge Cummins gets 22mpg, what are you getting on your Ford? I'd think it was a lot better than gas even with the high price of diesel these days.
 

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avnsteve wrote:
Okay, I'll make a list and if you would add to it or suggest some priorities. And of course money is going to be an issue. I bought the bike to offset the cost of diesel for my powerstroke (that's another story):

have rebuilt rear brake caliper still dragging, wtf? rear master cylinder rebuild?

front brakes appear to need the same, I have new pads for the front but I fear installing them for pushing the pucks that far back into the caliper and causing them to drag. they need rebuilding also.

occasional hard starting, sounds like starter doesn't get enough power from battery

magical mysterious 3 yellow wire issue...(say no more)

alternator conversion (wait until/if the stator fails?) or should I launch a pre-emptive strike?

tires (no brainer) they have some life left in them but I wont do more than neighborhood runs until they are replaced (my comfort zone)

also need a new battery cover, it evidently flew off sometime this weekend and I never noticed it. Anyone got an extra lying around?

carbs - slow air cut off valve?, spray carb cleaner? it runs VERY rich and I too get poor mileage about 150 miles to a tank (about 30mpg?) seems poor to me...

exhaust - many pin holes and rust



I've read many posts on these topics and have become overwhelmed. In your best opinion (what else would you offer?:D) what should be address first?
avnsteve, top of my priority list would be the brakes. None of the other things matter if you CAN'T STOP IT!!!

Next would be the tires, ever blow a tire on a 1000# bike at speed? I have & it will give you a new pucker factor to add top your life experiences.

After that,, ride it a while & see if the charging system still keeps going & possibly the fuel system will get better the more you use it..

Twisty
 

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exavid, my stroker gets 19mpg when I nurse it along at < or = 2000rpm and no faster than 60mph. Thats the least amount of diesel it'll sip, I have gotten as bad as 11mpg when I really stick my foot down her throat!

SORRY ABOUT BEING OFF TOPIC EVERYONE!

Twisty, the brake system is IMHO, the bane of my existence! Seems no matter what I do, I cannot get back the feel I had before putting my grubby little paws on it in the first place. So much for "fixing" it! Thanks for the guidance!:cooler:
 

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Does anyone have anything to add to the above list? Maybe something you personally experienced that I might need to watch for?
 

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I am not so sure the stator IS good. I haven't put a multimeter to it yet, but the "new" battery now seems to have a hard time turning the engine. After all the lurkingI've done on this site in regards to electrics, I'm inclined to believe the stator or charging system is starting to fail. I've got a lot of work to do this weekend. My fear is once I get it apart, I'll be down for the rest of the summer, waiting for the :crying: $$ to buy the :whip:parts to make the various fixes! Oh well, at least if I do eventually do these repairs, I can be sure I will eventually be back on the road!
 

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I would check the AC voltage out of the Stator I think it is suppose to be around 60 volts. Somebody will correct me if I am wrong. My old 84 was bad about sticky bearings in the starter. I had to pull it twice and clean & grease the bearing. Probably should have replaced the starter the first time.

By the way the starter can be pulled with out pulling the moter but it ain't easy.
 

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I'd put a volt meter on it. Can get one at Auto Zone for about $15. Easy to install.
My '84 was giving me problems last Sunday (main 30 amp fuse had a crack in it) and the volt meter tipped me off early. Was able to make it home and not get stranded. I would also do away with the stock 30 amp fuse. Just put an inline blade
type fuse holder in place of the fuse. Another easy installation and less than $5 at
AZ. Good luck with the brakes.
 

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yes, I plan to run some MMO and change the oil this weekend to be sure its not just sticky residue. If the problem continues, I'll reevaluate then.
 

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Fix the brakes, check the wiring and repair as necessary. Those two jobs are easy and cheap. Connect an AC voltmeter (Harbor Freight has digital volt/amp/ohm meters for less than $10) across the three yellow wires, two at a time to see if the stator is okay, should have around 50VAC or more across all three coils. Hard wire the three yellow wires from the stator, check the wiring from there up to the regulator to make sue there's no other problems with overheating stator wires.

These two chores should help a lot. Might even solve the starter problem and don't cost much.
 

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New brushes and a good cleaning on the starter might fix that hard starting problem. Brushes are only a few bucks and it only takes a couple of hours to pull, clean, replace brushes and re-install the starter.

Made a world of difference on mine.

As for the rest of it, I have to agree with the others. Start with the brakes.

Bob :11grey:
 
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