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Lost my front wheel bearing last Sunday about 2 1/2 hours from home. Had to get my trailer and bring it back that way. Finally got around to pulling it apart and sure enough, the bearing, opposite the speedometer box was grinding. Went to my friendly dealer, figuring he would have them in stock, only to find out, I had to order them.

I had read somewhere that the aftermarket bearings were higher quality than the OEM. Dealer tells me no. Dealer says OEM quality is far superior. All Balls set cost $19.99, compared to $71, for the OEM's. I went with the aftermarket, because he told me I should have them in time, and I have had luck with All Balls bearings. Any other opinions or beliefs on quality differences?
 

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In my experience with trailers, motorcycles and autos over the years most bearings are okay regardless of where they come from. I've never had a bad set and all gave good service if installed and lubricated properly. Most of the bearings you'll find now are going to be foreign, Pakistan, China, Korea, etc. but they all seem to give satisfactory service. All Balls bearings should work fine for you.
 

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I use no name bearings at our plant. I have a set that run all the time & their 8 years old now. I have never had a problem with cheaper bearings aside from normal wear & tear.
 

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I think honda sells koyo if I remember right. I'd trust most name brand bearings, SKF, NTN, Timken. I'd be a little leery on no name china ones. They might be 2nd or 3rd pick parts. Give them a spin before you put them in to be sure they feel good. You should be able to pick up locally at a bearing supply house, or Napa may stock them.
 

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Don't have enough personal experience myself to answer your question, but I have a question. The bearings the dealers around here are selling for the 1200's now are sealed. Are the 1500 bearings sealed also? Seems like the sealed bearings would last a lot longer with no contaminates getting in the grease.

John
 

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They are sealed, John. There is also a grease seal that fits over each one. The side that gave out is the side opposite the speedo gearbox. The bearing on the gearbox side is fairly well protected. The bad one is more exposed, and there is some rust present. It would seem more logical that the more exposed one, would give out quicker. The other bearing popped right out and still looks good. They will both get replaced.

On a side note, I had to order the bearings from my dealer. I have a spare wheel, so I thought I would pick up another set, for that wheel too. To be nosy, I ordered the second set from SaberCyle, just because. ;) The dealer actually beat Saber's price by a few bucks. It will be interesting to see when both sets come in. They were ordered the same day.
 

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Bearing have a number stamped or etched on the race or with smaller sealed bearings it's on the seal. It is a universal number with all brands so take that bearing or the number to a local parts or bearing house and get new ones. Very seldom will you find a bearing that is uncommon and can only be bought from a dealer. Of course they are going to say theirs is better but Honda, along with everyone else buys them from various makers,low bidder? who knows, the same ones you can get elsewhere.
 

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Interesting.

By part number, ie 6302RS (front wheel bearing) is a standard regular general bearing part number, but the various suppliers' price for this bearing can range from <$1 to >$35 ea. I have bought these same bearings and many others in lots of 10 for $1.50 each from ebay.

These bearing are double sealed bearings, but we tend to look at name brand vs performance. I guess for piece of mind, name brandrepresents quality and name brand represents performance. But, I will tell you, I can not tell a difference from a cheep bearing or a high dollar bearing. As far abearing being new, allare manufactured in high production withhigh quality controls and with high precision just due to the nature of thebearing manufacturing process. I would tend to believe the same for the cheep bearings when millions are being produced..and yes, in China.

But, many people out there ARE NOTtechnically inclined and are your average Joe's that really could care less. Give them a part number, and they are just glad to get the part. Who knows what they are getting and who knows the mark up, ...theydo not care. At least Autozone is pushing Timken bearings now-a-days. I do like Timken- maybe it is the orange box.

My application for the cheep bearings is for my lawn mower deck(s). I have noticed that Autozone integrates idlerpulleys with the exactsame cheapo bearings I have, and they do not use the Timkens.

Now, I do not think I really want to use my cheapo bearings for my MC wheels. Would ya'll have a problem in using the Timken bearings on your wheels?
 

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As posted by someone earlier I dont think it makes any difference anymore. I think Timkins are also imported now!
 

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So be it. The el-cheapo bearings are good enough, right.

So next time, ya'll will go with the super duper el-cheapo's, if available?

Do I hear a second?
 

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Napa auto parts. They have or can get overnight just about anything. Bearings, seals, orings, e-clips, metric fasteners, banjo bolts and seals, brake lines made to size, all that sort of thing.

Those big reference books on the counter contain a whole lot of information.
Kit
 

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Bearings from SaberCycle came today and just got done installing. Still waiting for that call from my dealer, to get that set. Ordered from both last Friday. Glad I didn't wait.
 

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mikef wrote:
Bearings from SaberCycle came today and just got done installing. Still waiting for that call from my dealer, to get that set. Ordered from both last Friday. Glad I didn't wait.
I think I'd carry the dealer set with me after they show up, personally.
 

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I don't see a difference anymore either. The bearings I got from All Balls were Chinese. Have used a couple sets for different bikes. So far, no problems. I just ordered a bunch of bearings for my old 71 Yamaha 360 from this place. http://www.skatebearings.com/index.htm

The price was right, the bearings look fine. I am using them all through the engine, main bearings, trans bearings, etc. Time will tell, but seem fine so far..
 

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I use the generic bearing from Napa...you can buy them at an electric motor replace shop also....about 7 bucks apiece....some places sell them by the measurements...ID/OD/width....works for me...OEM's are way overpriced....
 
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