Where are the GL1500 Strg Stops
- Status
1 - 8 of 8 Posts
Joined
·
3,358 Posts
imported post
Lower tree as far as I remember.
Lower tree as far as I remember.
Joined
·
781 Posts
imported post
If I remember right on mine, the wiring loom on top of the steering head can be pinched if not held in place directly above the pivot point, after you remove the trim from around the key, just pull up the trim over the handlebars and look forward with a good light, you'll see what I mean.
If I remember right on mine, the wiring loom on top of the steering head can be pinched if not held in place directly above the pivot point, after you remove the trim from around the key, just pull up the trim over the handlebars and look forward with a good light, you'll see what I mean.
imported post
I figured out the wierd "somethings in the way" feeling at full left turn with bike on stand. I pulled the top fork bridge off again and couldn't see anything trapped or in the way of any of the moving components. Then I looked under the fork bridge and saw where something had been rubbing the black paint off. Its cast aluminum - some flashing on the casting was just lightly rubbing the top surface of the outer edge of the ignition switch body. Filed a couple thousandths off and all is smooth and free. Obviously been like that since new - you can see the corresponding marks on the switch.
What turned into a simple install new tires and adjust the head bearings has turned into:
Tires
Clean/lube/adjust steering head bearings
Brakes (incl fluid)
Clutch hydraulic fluid and bleed
Rebuild forks
Rear drive lube (grease all splines)
Coolant
Remove trailer hitch and wiring
Can't wait to see how it feels with a front and rear tire not all worn out!
Thanks for the help.
Bob
I figured out the wierd "somethings in the way" feeling at full left turn with bike on stand. I pulled the top fork bridge off again and couldn't see anything trapped or in the way of any of the moving components. Then I looked under the fork bridge and saw where something had been rubbing the black paint off. Its cast aluminum - some flashing on the casting was just lightly rubbing the top surface of the outer edge of the ignition switch body. Filed a couple thousandths off and all is smooth and free. Obviously been like that since new - you can see the corresponding marks on the switch.
What turned into a simple install new tires and adjust the head bearings has turned into:
Tires
Clean/lube/adjust steering head bearings
Brakes (incl fluid)
Clutch hydraulic fluid and bleed
Rebuild forks
Rear drive lube (grease all splines)
Coolant
Remove trailer hitch and wiring
Can't wait to see how it feels with a front and rear tire not all worn out!
Thanks for the help.
Bob
imported post
Tony - Gotta pick the rear tire up tomorrow ( I let the dealer do the install on the wheel and balance for $20), change rear drive lube, bleed brakes and clutch hydraulics. Given my work schedule I hope to be riding Tues. eve. The bike RAN perfect when I picked it up from my neighbor but RODE terribly on the badly cupped front tire and squared off rear tire (looked like a sidecar tire!) and loose head bearings. The front was cupped and deformed so badly that the tire bounced the front end up and down. No tread to be seen. Zero. The guy was crazy about dealer performed oil changes ( 20 oil changes in 8 yrs and 20K) but let the tires go way too long.
I'll let ya know how it goes - I'm expecting a real treat. Thanks for the tip on shipping the trailer wiring to UK. Bob
Tony - Gotta pick the rear tire up tomorrow ( I let the dealer do the install on the wheel and balance for $20), change rear drive lube, bleed brakes and clutch hydraulics. Given my work schedule I hope to be riding Tues. eve. The bike RAN perfect when I picked it up from my neighbor but RODE terribly on the badly cupped front tire and squared off rear tire (looked like a sidecar tire!) and loose head bearings. The front was cupped and deformed so badly that the tire bounced the front end up and down. No tread to be seen. Zero. The guy was crazy about dealer performed oil changes ( 20 oil changes in 8 yrs and 20K) but let the tires go way too long.
I'll let ya know how it goes - I'm expecting a real treat. Thanks for the tip on shipping the trailer wiring to UK. Bob
imported post
Did the head brgs, frt and rear brakes, tires, ALL fluids, lubed all splines, replaced driveshaft boot. The bike is transformed and rides wonderfully.
One tip for those who might want to try it. The fork springs measured same as new so I left them in, but cut new spacers out of white PVC pipe (JUST fits inside fork tube ID) and added about 1/2" of preload (made spacers 1/2" longer than stock) This does two things:
1) Raises the front ride height about 1/2" (reduces sag) but I still have maybe a little too much sag - about 35% of travel.
2) Makes the initial rate higher. Since these are Honda progressives springs, partially compressing them further by increasing preload probably gets you to a slightly higher initial spring rate. Without knowing the travel/rate curve it's hard to tell how much. With 15W oil the forks feel GREAT now. I set the level as the book recommends for '98.
I set the strg head brgs right about 15 lb ft and achieved 5 lbs of force to pull the forks off center (pretty much by the book though I went just above the spec). The bike isn't even close to being tight enough to have a weave (normal symptom of too tight head brgs) so I think you could go a little higher than 5 lbs. I'll try 6 next time around and report back. The bike is straight as an arrow with this setting and the new Dunlop E3's.
One thing I was a little disappointed in. The dealer installed the new rear E3 on my wheel. The bead is seated evenly all around but when running bike on stand ( I know I shouldn't!!) the tire has a side to side (lateral) wobble about 1/8" total. Looks funny, can't be felt riding but still. wheel checks out at zero runout so it's the tire. Anyone else seen this? I shouldn't complain - the tires feel great.
So, after having paid a little too much cuz the bike was so darn clean and then putting more time in it than I planned am I pleased? YEP. Thanks again for the help.
Bob
Did the head brgs, frt and rear brakes, tires, ALL fluids, lubed all splines, replaced driveshaft boot. The bike is transformed and rides wonderfully.
One tip for those who might want to try it. The fork springs measured same as new so I left them in, but cut new spacers out of white PVC pipe (JUST fits inside fork tube ID) and added about 1/2" of preload (made spacers 1/2" longer than stock) This does two things:
1) Raises the front ride height about 1/2" (reduces sag) but I still have maybe a little too much sag - about 35% of travel.
2) Makes the initial rate higher. Since these are Honda progressives springs, partially compressing them further by increasing preload probably gets you to a slightly higher initial spring rate. Without knowing the travel/rate curve it's hard to tell how much. With 15W oil the forks feel GREAT now. I set the level as the book recommends for '98.
I set the strg head brgs right about 15 lb ft and achieved 5 lbs of force to pull the forks off center (pretty much by the book though I went just above the spec). The bike isn't even close to being tight enough to have a weave (normal symptom of too tight head brgs) so I think you could go a little higher than 5 lbs. I'll try 6 next time around and report back. The bike is straight as an arrow with this setting and the new Dunlop E3's.
One thing I was a little disappointed in. The dealer installed the new rear E3 on my wheel. The bead is seated evenly all around but when running bike on stand ( I know I shouldn't!!) the tire has a side to side (lateral) wobble about 1/8" total. Looks funny, can't be felt riding but still. wheel checks out at zero runout so it's the tire. Anyone else seen this? I shouldn't complain - the tires feel great.
So, after having paid a little too much cuz the bike was so darn clean and then putting more time in it than I planned am I pleased? YEP. Thanks again for the help.
Bob
Joined
·
1,154 Posts
imported post
Bob,
Thanks for posting your results. My '85 is a bit soft in the front end. I may try the spacer trick. Like a lot of older Wing owners, I keep finding things that need replacing. With the spacers, I can use the spring money on something else.
Bob,
Thanks for posting your results. My '85 is a bit soft in the front end. I may try the spacer trick. Like a lot of older Wing owners, I keep finding things that need replacing. With the spacers, I can use the spring money on something else.
1 - 8 of 8 Posts
- Status
Join the discussion
