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Thanks
 

· Monkey with a Football
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I don't think they exist as a manufactured part and 1.5" is about max.

I have a document at home that shows how to make the two sets you need to be able to move the box and the helmet locks if you want to keep those. I'll try to find it for you tonight if someone hasn't beat me to it.

One thing to remember is that it doesn't take much shift back on the rear axel to create a lot of lifting on the front forks.

I always wondered why there was not a setback kit for the 1500 when they exist for earlier models.
 

· Old School Guru
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Rudy wrote:
I always wondered why there was not a setback kit for the 1500 when they exist for earlier models.
I think it has to do with the trunk and bags being formed to mate into each other to form a more streamlined look. Where as the trunk was removeable on the earlier models, the 1500 trunk was intergrated to the bike.:D

Gene:waving:
 

· Monkey with a Football
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Bartlett wrote:
I moved my truck back 2" and it was not hard at all ... a little fab work and walla ..
Ok Bartlett, you've got the baton.

Put up the details/drawings/photos so he can follow your lead.
 

· Monkey with a Football
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Here are some text instructions I acquired somewhere... I'll try to find the drawing another guy sent me and post it soon...

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The following was posted on the GWRRA message board on March 03, '03 by Tim Peck. I met Tim and his wife at Pomeroy Ohio and saw his 1500 GoldWing, and unless you were told that he had moved the trunk back, you wouldn't have noticed it. He told us how he did it, sent me an e-mail explaining it, and told me then to feel free to share the info. It weas after this that I moved mine back. you have to move it either 1 1/2" or 2 1/4" or modify the lower rear trunk cover .

The two front holes are closer together than the two rear holes. I used two 1" wide and about 14 1'2" long pieces of 3/16 inch steel to make my relocation brackets, Tom Peck used 4 shorter pieces of 1/4" aluminum, or you could get two longer pieces of 1/4" thick, 1" or 1 1/4" wide aluminum.

The holes that hold the brackets to the bike mounting holes should be done with counter sunk holes, I used 1/4-20 fasteners tapping out the bikes metric bosses. I even added a nut underneath to lock them. One hole very near the end of the strip, and the second 11 1/8" back. Space these holes 5/8" from one edge of 1" wide strip, or 3/8" from the other .... so when the other holes are marked you have metal left.

If you do it with two pieces like I did, just drill the 4 holes to mount them to the bike first, then attach over some long screws in the stock holes, and use a square to mark the new mounting holes 90 degrees off the line going between the two front or rear holes. So trunk is moved straight back.

Measure diaganally, cross measurements should be same (like an "X").
Countersink later and secure, then just mount trunk to brackets.

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>>" I have had several guys ask me for more info, so i thought i would post it here for everyone that is interested. There is no bracket or kit to move the trunk back. The first one I did (mine) took me about 6 hrs to figure out with help from a motorcycle internet bulletin board. I disconnected and removed trunk and saddlebags completely. It now takes me about 2 hrs. without removing them. You will need to remove the seat and the trunk bottom cover. Then have someone hold the trunk tilted while you cut off the plastic ribs underneath. You also have to make a couple mods to bike, but they are not noticeable afterwards. I learned on the GWRRA BB that it was possible to move the trunk either 2 ¼” or 1 ½” back. I thought that 2 ¼” was stretching the cables too far, so IMHO, 1 ½” was the way to go. You need to either make 2 long or 4 short pieces for brackets. I used 4 pieces of ¼” thick aluminum (1 ¾”X 2 ½”) and drilled two holes in ea, 1 ½” apart and 9/16” from one side. One I tapped 6mm X 1.0 for factory bolt to thread into and the next was ¼” to allow new longer 6mm bolt to go through to attach piece to framework. By using the 4 pieces, I did not have to worry about aligning the holes in the brackets perfectly (while doing this by myself).
You have to cut away the ribs that are used for aligning the frt mounting holes of the trunk at the factory to allow the aluminum plates to lay flat.
I removed the 3 shortest ribs. Also, you need to cut the sides of the bottom cover at the access hole for the release levers, where they hit a bar under the trunk, (now that it is moved back). You will see where when you go to bolt up the bottom cover. I used a couple washers between the trunk and brackets to make up for the space difference the heads of the bolts made 'cause I did not want to countersink the bolt heads into the aluminum. I also put a couple small washers behind the opening levers bracket to move it a little so you could use the levers w/o hitting your fingertips on the bar. The helmet locks also have to be moved back 1 ½”. You will need to make brackets for them, too. I used thinner aluminum that was 4” X 1 ¾” with a corner cut off to be able to bolt up next to the angled frame. I drilled two holes 1 1/2” apart, the frt one was ¼” (to use the original bolt to attach it) and the rr one was 7/32”. After filing off the small alignment tab, I then attached the locks to these brackets. Some guys don’t use the helmet locks, so they just remove them. The plus for all this is that you can now remove the saddlebags w/o removing the cover under the trunk, since the trunk is now ¼” higher and no more of the complaining about the backrest intruding into Her space!! The usual disclaimers apply, so do this only if you are qualified and have someone to help you. Also, it does not seem to affect the bike handling in any way.

GOOD WRENCHING,
T
 

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well I went to take pics but it isnt realy going to show much ... I will try to exspain the deal the best I can ...

unbolt the box and lift it slightly

I used a nylon stap to hold the box up off the bike without completly having to remove the box ..

take a look at the 4 bolt holes on the bike frame that the box mounts to.

buy a peice of 1" wide 1/4 thick steel clamp the steel ontop of the bolt holes in the frame. use a marker /center punch ect to locate the frame holes to the steel bar. now unclamp the bar and measure from that hole back 2" scribe a line across the bar at that point. now reclamp the bar back up only this time clamping it so the scribed line is centered in the body hole on the frame. make two marks for the new bolt holes . remove the bar and drill and tab all 4 holes in the bar.

the bar now will be able to mount in the stock location but also have two new mounting holes 2" back for the box to mount on .

*note* the new bolts holding the bar down to the frame will need to be installed from the bottom and ground flush . also a small amount of the plastic box moulding fins need to be ground off so the box will sit flat. (I used a 4" grinder)

you will need to repete this for the other side also ..... Total 2 straps

the helemt holders I removed

There is also a frame bar that crosses right at the levers to open the trunks..I cut the bar completly out ...

good luck .... I will try to draw this out and post it ....
 

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anyone close by wanting this done im willing to do it for you if needed and you cna leave the bike for a couple of days ect ... im very anal about the bikes looks and when its done you cannot tell its been changed unless you are a wing pro !!

the wife loves the added room and the bike rides 100% the same as before ...

I can also just mae up some relocation brackets for people ... ones jiged up its very fast and simple for me ...
 

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rudy thanks for that pdf ....

I realy do not like the way he did his. IMO he has way to many parts and his also raised the box 1/2" or so ... now im bound to get good pics of how I did it .

the guy with the pdf definitly did a good job on his write up ...
 

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Bartlett How much can I give for for a set???



Rudy you have been very helpful to me thanks a MILLION!!!
 

· Monkey with a Football
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fasman wrote:
Bartlett How much can I give for for a set???



Rudy you have been very helpful to me thanks a MILLION!!!
You are most welcome. I like Montana and it's non-Hollywood folks :waving:.

Bartlett... put me down for buying a set too. I hope you also do the helmet plates too as I use them all the time. If you get me the photos and parts, I'll do a writeup on your stuff too and throw it up online.
 

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I will make a few sets ..

right now there wont be a helmet holder bracket ( I will look into making one ) it should not be to hard. ( I dont use them so I removed them )

I cant imaging a ton of people needing these kits, And they will come with NO warranty or gurantee of ANY thing . Im just making them to help people move there box. IM not a engineer , and cant predict what happens in a 60 mile cross wind while hitting a truck in the snow ect (thats a joke:cheeky1:). the box mounts very solid and ive witnessed no changes in handling , just more passanger room.

today I will make two sets , $30 for a set shipped priority usa. I can ship anyware for cost of ship.

paypal is [email protected]

first two should goto the members that posted they want one . they can repost to members saying how they worked out in there situation.
 

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I posted earlier that my paypal was sent as well it didnt show tho so here ya go...



Fast 60 buckers thanks
 

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Hello Bartlett

Are you still making the trunk relocation brackets? If so I would like to buy a set.
How much? How do you want paid.
Thanks

Ray Castleberry (dogwooddir)
 

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Bartlett
Now that you are selling them are you still going to post pictures of how to do it your way?I'd really like to compare the 2 setups.Would like to keep the bike as stock looking as possible.Also not that crazy about using alum. as it has a tendency to crack with the vibration.The wife could use the extra room,but I'm not sure I want to start modifying my bike just yet.She really doesn't need it that bad,but it's nice to have an option.
 
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