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Since I purchased my wing, I always try to spend the week between Christmas and New Years doing preventive maintenance on the bike. This year is no different.






As you can see my rear brake rotor was grooved from the P.O. When I bought the bike, I had new brakes installed. 10K miles later, these too were almost gone. So I gathered all my parts that I thought I need to replace and began the tear down.



I removed the saddle bags (done it before so used to that method) and removed the rear tire. No problem with that since I replaced the tire 2 years ago. As I read all the search threads on this, I knew I must pull the final drive and grease everything.



Well as I began the removal, I saw where my air shock boot was busted. I pulled on it a little and the next ring broke as well. So today I ordered a new boot. I think I can get everything together except the right side until the boot arrives.



OK....so onward with the final drive removal. Wow were those bolts tight. I know they must of never been removed. I finally got them all broke loose and the drive removed. Some grease still but very old. All the splineslook very good. Cleaned everything well and then put the new Honda Moly 60 on all the splines. Tried to insert the final drive back in the bike and had a little problems getting it started. Back to the forum, searched and found a few ideas. Didn't mess with the front boot. Crawled underneath and worked it aroundand moved the gear a little and it slipped right in. Wew again as I read where others had a lot of problems with the alignment.



After getting everything bolted back up, it was time to drain the gear oil out of the drive and replace it.



Bolted the new rotor on the rear wheel and then began with the brake removal. Had more problems with this as I didn't understand how this initially went together or came apart. Searched again. Humm. Front brake instructions but no rear brake instruction. Ended up doing a google search and found out how this all worked. Not complicated. Just never did this before. Polished the pins and used silicone break grease on them.



So I quit for the evening. Tomorrow all I need to do is install the wheel, get the brakes on and then put theleft and rear tupperware on.



Oh yeah.....I'm draining the oil out of the air shock and replacing it as well. The shock holds air very well so I'm pretty certain I don't have to rebuild it. If I did, I can count on this forum for help.



Two years ago I replaced the timing belts and pulleys. Just followed the instructions on this web site. I thank you guys once again for all you information and help. I have a real satisfaction of doing this work myself, knowing it was done right and saving a little money doesn't hurt either.
 

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While you are at it replace the Brake and clutch fluids. Suck out the old from the master cylinders and clean them out the flush the systems and bleed the air out. This should be every 1-2 years max.
Same with the fork oil. I just changed a friend's fork oil. The old might have been original the way it stunk! Big difference in the ride too, he has no more dive upon front brake grab.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
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Good idea on the break fluid.

I got my rotor from Wingstuff but not sure if they have you bike listed. I think mine was around $135.
 

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firebrick wrote:
rotors are expensive!! lol
Yes they are. I searched all around and with my discount, this was about the cheapest I could find. Pads aren't cheap either! I can't imagine the cost of having to pay someone to do this work!
 
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