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I have a 2000SE with only 13,000 mile on it. Which doesn't have anything to do with my question but someone always asks.

The other day when I pulled away from a stop light I was watching my voltmeter and it stayed in the 12 volt range as I went thru the gears and was up over 3000 rpms. It stayed that way for about 3 miles then it went up to around the 14 volt range where it should be. I left it sit for a few days and started it and it was putting out plenty of volts. I checked all the connections and everything was clean and tight.

Now, I'm half afraid to ride it is the alternator going to die when I'm on the road and let me sit?

Just for peace of mind I think I will repace the alternator bit this is my question.

Do I get a 85amp compufire or a 90 Hitiachi I found on ebay? For $125 less.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=290585976828&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT



It's not the more amps I'm after it's a better than stock alternator for $125 less that a compufire.



I would appreciate fellow winger opinions.



thanx
 

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If you have tons of accessories/lights, you may want 90 amps running through a system designed for 40 amps. I don't have any add-ons that amount to anything, so I had my Hitatchi rebuilt. I know lots a guys swear by the Compufire, but I have no reason for so much amperage, plus I used to be a fireman.JMO jimsjinx
 

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Not sure of the difference between the two but I just installed the compufire about 3 weeks ago and have had no trouble at all. I have Rudy's warning light and it use to flash while sitting at the red light with the brakes on. Since the swap I can sit at the light with with everything on including brakes, external decorative lights, heated clothing, and trailer lights and still the light does not flash.. Hope this helps...
 

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Your bike is new, very new at 13,000 miles. If it were my bike I would do a complete diagnostic to appraise the alternator and charging system and...

It is over 3 years old and as such the complete electrical system needs a very complete going over. Which means every wire, connector, socket must be clean, secure, tight and as it was in 2000.

But to get you started:
Charge the battery check it then with an hydrometer verify the cells.
With a known good battery installed and a multi meter test the open circuit voltage of the battery when off.
Test the voltage as you start the engine.
Test the voltage right after a start.
After a cold idle then at temp at idle.
At 2500-3000 RPM with a constant RPM during the whole time you are taking readings.

The voltage should be 12.7 V at a minimum after a charge or higher.
While starting never less than 10 V
After a start at least 12.6 V
At idle at least 12.6
At high revs at least 13.7 to maximum 15 V

Your system may be sticking, have worn or short brushes, have a failing conductor(s), a dirty or out of commutator, or bad or failing rectifier, or regulator. But as new as the bike is age takes its toll whether lots of miles or sitting.

It will take a specific test to check all different elements of a complete electrical system.
 

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The Compufire has a very good track record for being a quality product. I'm not familiar with the Hitachi product on ebay but the guy has a very good feedback rating and I would be tempted to go with the Hitachi and save a bunch of money.

Having said that, I would also do as arknapp suggested and do some tests on the electrical system before buying a new alternator. Might fix your trouble by cleaning some connections. I would also take the old alternator out and either take it apart yourself and do a good cleanup and check for worn brushes, etc. If you don't want to take the alternator apart yourself you could find a local starter/alternator repair shop to do it for you.
 

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Check the connections on the back of the volt meter. Mine was doing wacky things like that(w/compufire) but ended up the connections were loose on the back of the firecreek guages.
 

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Going with a Compufire and a new AGM battery solved all the electrical problems I was having...........and they sound very much like yours.

T.
 

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tnoort wrote:
Going with a Compufire and a new AGM battery solved all the electrical problems I was having...........and they sound very much like yours.

T.
Same here. Compufire and Gell Battery all the way for me. Peace of mind goes a long way.
 

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mlbrenn wrote:
I have a 2000SE with only 13,000 mile on it. Which doesn't have anything to do with my question but someone always asks.

The other day when I pulled away from a stop light I was watching my voltmeter and it stayed in the 12 volt range as I went thru the gears and was up over 3000 rpms. It stayed that way for about 3 miles then it went up to around the 14 volt range where it should be. I left it sit for a few days and started it and it was putting out plenty of volts. I checked all the connections and everything was clean and tight.

Now, I'm half afraid to ride it is the alternator going to die when I'm on the road and let me sit?

Just for peace of mind I think I will repace the alternator bit this is my question.

Do I get a 85amp compufire or a 90 Hitiachi I found on ebay? For $125 less.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=290585976828&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT



I would appreciate fellow winger opinions.



thanx
I don`t mean to tell you your stuff but the compufire like I have is 90 amp & The other one must have been rebuilt to put out 85 amp !
 

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hummer5205 wrote:
I don`t mean to tell you your stuff but the compufire like I have is 90 amp & The other one must have been rebuilt to put out 85 amp !


Hummer, you must not have looked at the ebay page. The Hitachi is rated at 95 amps according to the specs published on the page. Looks like it might be a good deal to me.



 

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I would assume that like the Compufire, you would be wise to replace the battery with an AGM? If so , brings the price closer to the Compufire/battery pairing available @ most Goldwing parts retailers (such as Cyclemax, Wingstuff, etc.).

The 95 amp Hitachi does seem a reasonable way to go if it performs similar to the Compufire - anybody here tried one?

T
 

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Steveorino
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I'm in the same boat. Looking to replace my alternator.
It seems a couple guys have had good luck with these:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/HIGH...torcyclesQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories#ht_2534wt_938

But like jimsjinx, I too am concerned with running 95 amps in a 40 amp system. But each connection will only draw the current it needs the way I understand it. But the battery will most likely need to be gel.

So yeah, it's $350+ minimum to upgrade....
 

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Be sure the rad fans are not on when reading voltage.
At 13000 miles the alt. should be good as new.
 

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Seems that no one has mentioned the re-build route.
Heard lots of good things about this service.
Probably going to go this route next Spring.

http://mysite.ncnetwork.net/resp3jbj/

Price is certainly reasonable.
 

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Installed a Compufire and gel battery three years ago and love the set up. No worrys about charging even with the all accessories on. It is a lot of money, but I think it was worth it.
 

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Speedbird wrote:
Yes, you will want the Gel battery. Running a standard battery with this alt runs the possibility of a boil-over, something that you do not want.
FUD "Fear Uncertainty Doubt".
Just because an alternator says it can output X number of amps doesn't mean it does so all the time. Your alternator is regulated and only outputs enough to run your bike plus accessories and slowly charge the battery.
The Compufire "claims" to charge at about ½V more than the stock alternator which the gel or AGM batteries like but that will not hurt your ordinary vented battery.
I do agree that gel or AGM batteries are the way to go but not until your current battery bites the dust.
 
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