Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums banner

Status
Not open for further replies.
1 - 18 of 18 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,931 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
imported post

I have to havea nail puncture patched so I took the rear wheel off and can feel a wee bit of slack when I try to wiggle the axle, so perhaps I should replace the bearings before I get the dreaded race rotation.There is no apparent roughness or noise when I rotate the axle and it rotates very smoothly and easily. Thoughts????

Also, at the JCW site, which bearings do I select?

http://www.windowshopnepa.com/ispellbad/jcwparts.htm

Thanks

Hawker22
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,777 Posts
imported post

Hate to send you off again, but check out the tips section on this forum. It list the number for the 1200 series. (6204/6304) I just can't remember... Tho I am pretty sure the rear wheel requires two different sizes.... Good Luck------Shooter
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,191 Posts
imported post

" a wee bit of slack "  ... hmmm not very precise.. I assume on last tire change.. there was "Nae a bit o slack " ?? ..... One of the 7 motorcycle dealers in this area ... has set himself up as a "Tire expert " for ALL brands.... and the Honda, Harley, Victory  dealers all send their tire work his way.. he has a huge inventory... and a huge knowledge base...  When I got my rear tire re-done , last month.. I asked him about rear bearings.. He carries all sorts of axels, and  a test bench for run out, etc...  and he checked it out completely......... I would much rather have a guy like this check things than  be guessing myself... perhaps see if you can find such a knowledgeable expert  in your area........... SilverDave /forums/images/emoticons/emoticonsxtra/cooldj.gif
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,931 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
imported post

SilverDave wrote:
" a wee bit of slack " ... hmmm not very precise.. I assume on last tire change.. there was "Nae a bit o slack " ?? ..... One of the 7 motorcycle dealers in this area ... has set himself up as a "Tire expert " for ALL brands.... and the Honda, Harley, Victory dealers all send their tire work his way.. he has a huge inventory... and a huge knowledge base... When I got my rear tire re-done , last month.. I asked him about rear bearings.. He carries all sorts of axels, and a test bench for run out, etc... and he checked it out completely......... I would much rather have a guy like this check things than be guessing myself... perhaps see if you can find such a knowledgeable expert in your area...........SilverDave/forums/images/emoticons/emoticonsxtra/cooldj.gif

Ido not know about the "slack" at the last tire change as I only just got the bike. By a little slack, I mean that there is a very small movement-just feelable- when I wiggle the axle with the wheel off. There is such a person in my local area, and he is the one who advised me to change out the bearings IF I had any doubt whatsoever-cheap insurance. BTW, how should I have worded it to be more precise?

Thanks for the advice, my guy happened to be outwhen I breezed by from having my tire repaired. I got the bearings anyway.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,491 Posts
imported post

Hawker22 wrote:
I have to havea nail puncture patched so I took the rear wheel off and can feel a wee bit of slack when I try to wiggle the axle, so perhaps I should replace the bearings before I get the dreaded race rotation.There is no apparent roughness or noise when I rotate the axle and it rotates very smoothly and easily. Thoughts????
Hawker22, the best advise pertaining to wheel bearings on motorcycles is: On packable type bearings, re-pack at each tire change.. On sealed bearings, to replace at each tire change.. If you don't know the bikes history definitely replace at first tireremoval time..

Twisty
 

·
Postpubescent member
Joined
·
36,382 Posts
imported post

I'd certainly go along with the 'if there's any doubt, change them' group. If you don't you'll always be wondering about them. Personally I'd feel okay running them for 30-40k miles, but that's just my opinion.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,931 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
imported post

I put in new bearings and O rings and a new grease seal. Before I put the wheel back on, I stuck the axle thru and gave it the same wiggle test as before. I got exactly the same amount of slack or a very slight wiggle--even when placing the axle at a different places on the race. The axle was inspected at the bike shop that repaired the tire and was declared to be good.

That wiggle must be normal and may just be the normal freeplay of the bearing itself. Based on that, unless I hear a warning against it, I am going to put the wheel back on the bike.

The bearings came out OK and the new ones went in nice and tight.

Hawker22
 

·
Postpubescent member
Joined
·
36,382 Posts
imported post

Hawker22 wrote:
I put in new bearings and O rings and a new grease seal. Before I put the wheel back on, I stuck the axle thru and gave it the same wiggle test as before. I got exactly the same amount of slack or a very slight wiggle--even when placing the axle at a different places on the race. The axle was inspected at the bike shop that repaired the tire and was declared to be good.

That wiggle must be normal and may just be the normal freeplay of the bearing itself. Based on that, unless I hear a warning against it, I am going to put the wheel back on the bike.

The bearings came out OK and the new ones went in nice and tight.

Hawker22
Wiggling the axle in the bearings really doesn't prove much, stick your finger into the inner race of the bearing while it's in the wheel and see if there's any play, turn the race and see if it's smooth turning with no grittiness. The axle has a bit of clearance in the race, when the wheel is installed on the bike the axle clamps the bearing's inner race so there's no play.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,491 Posts
imported post

Hawker22 wrote:
I put in new bearings and O rings and a new grease seal. Before I put the wheel back on, I stuck the axle thru and gave it the same wiggle test as before. I got exactly the same amount of slack or a very slight wiggle--even when placing the axle at a different places on the race. The axle was inspected at the bike shop that repaired the tire and was declared to be good.

That wiggle must be normal and may just be the normal freeplay of the bearing itself. Based on that, unless I hear a warning against it, I am going to put the wheel back on the bike.

The bearings came out OK and the new ones went in nice and tight.

Hawker22
Hawker, there is a spacer inside the wheel between the bearings,, you really can't judge the bearings for lateral or radial play without placing the wheel & proper spacers back in place& torquing the axle nut..

*You might be able to install the spacers on each side of the wheel, then add enoughadditional spacer to allow the axle nut to be tightened on the axle then see what play you have with the wheel off the bike.

Twisty
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,931 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
imported post

OK, thank you gents, for the explaination. Looks like I may have replaced a perfectly good set of bearings AND ruined a good seal for no reason. Well, maybe not. The bearings were in a little need of a repacking, had they stayed in. They were the type with no inner seals. The guy gave me the wrong size seal as I forgot to take the collar spacer so he could fit the seal to it. Tomorrow. At least I took everyones advice and had my tire properly patched.

Hawker22
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,931 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
imported post

Today, I took the wrong sized seal back and got the correct one and put it all back together. I torqued it up very slowly, rotating the wheel as I went and finally got the main nut up to 69 ft lbs. The wheel still rotated nicely with no bearing or brake drag, and what was even nicer was that I had ZERO slack in the wheel when I tried to wiggle it. I also had a good chance to check for any looseness in the swing arm while it was free and there was none. I also pushed the boot back and inspected the U-Joint which looked good with plenty grease. Is there a zerk in thatthing, I forgot to notice. I am cleaning and dielectric greasing all electrical connections as I reassemble. What great fun. Oh ya, I removed about 17 lbs of trailer hitch as well. AND, it rained all the while my bike was down,

Thanks for all the help.

Hawker22
 

·
Postpubescent member
Joined
·
36,382 Posts
imported post

Unfortunately U-joint is permanently lubed.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,491 Posts
imported post

Hawker22 wrote:
Today, I took the wrong sized seal back and got the correct one and put it all back together. I torqued it up very slowly, rotating the wheel as I went and finally got the main nut up to 69 ft lbs. The wheel still rotated nicely with no bearing or brake drag, and what was even nicer was that I had ZERO slack in the wheel when I tried to wiggle it. I also had a good chance to check for any looseness in the swing arm while it was free and there was none. I also pushed the boot back and inspected the U-Joint which looked good with plenty grease. Is there a zerk in thatthing, I forgot to notice. I am cleaning and dielectric greasing all electrical connections as I reassemble. What great fun. Oh ya, I removed about 17 lbs of trailer hitch as well. AND, it rained all the while my bike was down,

Thanks for all the help.

Hawker22
Hawker, the drive shaft splines should be greased with a high moly content grease every few years, as Exavid said, no fitting on the actual U-joint though..

Be very careful with that dielectric grease. If that is added to a connection that has existing corrosion or oxidation it will make the problem worse (or cause you new problems).. If there is any heat build-up in a connection & dielectric grease is added, that connection can still heat up, therefore melting the grease & allowing it to run into & between the terminals & cause more resistance & even more heating (and or connector failure).. Personally I prefer to cut out old existing connectors & either hard wire & solder, or add modern Packard sealed type connectors with new Packard terminals to match..

Twisty
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,148 Posts
imported post

Honda says "0" play at the rear wheel bearings.. :waving:
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
623 Posts
imported post

Twisty, I've never heard of replacing sealed wheel bearings at every tire change. On our wings that would be what? every 10 to12,000 miles? On a sport bike that might be as little as 3-4000 miles?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
537 Posts
imported post

Hawker 22

I had the same slack as you. Took the wheel to motor cycle wrench. He said to change the bearings. 15000 miles on bike. I replaced the bearings. WALLA same slack no better.

Alski
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
991 Posts
imported post

There are two type bearings on the back wheel of the gl1200. I got this off the tips page;

GL1200 Rear Wheel Bearings. These are available from most bearing suppliers a lot cheaper than from Honda dealers. Ask for the equivalent of 6204RS (driveshaft side) and 6304RS (disc side).
 
1 - 18 of 18 Posts
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top