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Ok, so I have the wig-wag module, and the headlight modulator on order from "Signal dynamics" and want to do some adjusting to the setup.

The way the module is installed is by interrupting the brakelight lines, and seperating a signal to the different brake lights. There are two modes you can use, but they are not selectible on the road, you need to connect up either a red wire or an orange wire for repeating or terminating flash patterns. There is also no way to turn on or off the modulation. So, I am going to try and rig up a bit of a modified setup. I also want to wire in a 12v indicator light so I can verify that the brake system is energised. (I miss that from an old bike of mine.)

Please look at my diagram, and the original wiring instructions, and let me know what you think.

This is the link for their install guides:

http://www.signaldynamics.com/products/Modules/wigwaginst.asp

Here is what I want to do:

I am using a pair of DPST switches rated at an acceptable amperage. The first one in the circuit (Closest to the brake light switch) will determine if the wig-wag will be active or not. The second one, that connects to the two input wires of the wig-wag, will select between the two modulation modes. My indicator should light when either brake is applied, and will remain on steady.
 

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Philcand, your system won't function if wired as pictured. That wire running between the two brake lights will impair it's ability to wig/wag & could possibly damage the wig/wag module.

If I were doing it, I would find a (4) post, double throw toggle switch (or relay) & wire per this picture (sorry for the poor diagram but I don't have much of a cad program on my laptop here).

If you want to get real fancy you could also add a resistor (unknown value at this time (probably around 10-12 ohms) between the original rear brake light wire & ground as that would probably keep your dash warning light off.

Questions---

Twisty

 

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At first I was thinking diodes, but I think Twisty's on to something. What I'd do differently though, is to use a two pole double throw switch (see attached drawing), instead of a four pole.
 

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In retrospect,the switch in my adaptation of the drawingneeds to bae a double pole SINGLE pole switch. A double throw would give you an Off position!:shock:
 

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Thanks guys. Frenchy, I like your idea, seeing as I already have 2 DPST switches. It's always good to run these things by others, as my mind was obviously not working right...
 

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Frenchy wrote:
In retrospect,the switch in my adaptation of the drawingneeds to bae a double pole SINGLE pole switch. A double throw would give you an Off position!:shock:
Frenchy, actually you had it right in the first post.. He needs a DPDT (double pole/double throw) switch. The switch you thought you were specing is called a DPDT "center off" switch as that also has the 3rd center off position..

He needsa DPDT switch for his application.



Dual ON-ON
Double Pole, Double Throw = DPDT


A pair of on-on switches which operate together A DPDT switch

ON-OFF-ON
DPDT Centre Off
A special version of the standard DPDT switch. It has a third switching position in the centre which is off. This can be very useful for motor control because you have forward, off and reverse positions. Momentary (ON)-OFF-(ON) versions are also available where the switch returns to the central off position when released.


Twisty
 

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then what's a DPST switch? (Dual pole, single throw)

What I have, and am going to use are the switches with 6 contacts on them. One set of 3 is indepentedt of the other set of three. The mode selector switch will only be using one side of the switch. (common, A, B) The Off-on will be set up to have the output to the brake lights tied to the common, and the wig-wag inputs on A1 and A2, while the standard signal will come in on B1 and B2.



Assuming that the switch is laid out like this:
 

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philcsand wrote:
then what's a DPST switch? (Dual pole, single throw)

What I have, and am going to use are the switches with 6 contacts on them. One set of 3 is indepentedt of the other set of three. The mode selector switch will only be using one side of the switch. (common, A, B) The Off-on will be set up to have the output to the brake lights tied to the common, and the wig-wag inputs on A1 and A2, while the standard signal will come in on B1 and B2.



Assuming that the switch is laid out like this:
Philcsand, a DPST (double pole/single throw) is just as it says.. 2 separate poles with just a single direction throw (off & on only)... (see pix).

Using your switch shown you need to have the 2 rear lights be on the center COMMON terminals, with the wig/wag wires attached to 2 end terminals, & the original brake input split & hooked to the other 2 end terminals.

Twisty

 

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Here is the correct wiring on your DPDT switch..

Twisty
 

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Sweet!

This all will come in quite handy.
 

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Philcsand, as you are wanting a brake light indicator on the dash board, why not us a fibre-optic instead of another incandescent bulb. This would give you the indicator you want without adding to the power draw on the electrical system.
 

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Hmm, interesting idea... I could run one from each light so I could see that they are both working...
 

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New to this. Where is the best place to make the connections for a WIG WAG on a '08 1800?
 

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jackjohn wrote:
Philcsand, as you are wanting a brake light indicator on the dash board, why not us a fibre-optic instead of another incandescent bulb. This would give you the indicator you want without adding to the power draw on the electrical system.
Do you mean LED? If not, where would you get a Fiber Optic cable/indicator?

Thanks in Advance, Phil
 

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tomzspot wrote:
New to this. Where is the best place to make the connections for a WIG WAG on a '08 1800?
[align=center]
Welcome to The Worlds Greatest Goldwing Forum. :clapper::clapper::clapper::clapper:[/align]
[align=center]:leprechaun::18red::leprechaun:[/align]
 

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tomzspot wrote:
New to this. Where is the best place to make the connections for a WIG WAG on a '08 1800?
Tom: I am having computer problems.....saw your post ealier......anyway actually the Wig Wag is not the best choice for the 1800 for a brake modulator. The 1800 has six tail light bulbs.....and the wig wag is not made for the amp load.....and there has been trouble with them burning out.....aslo the main feed brake wire which is green/red stripe runs back as a single wire........and spits under the trunk to the left and right lights....so you end up splitting the lights and running jumpers if you mount the device under the seat....and or installing it in the trunk and serving those lights and making more jumper wires. If you go to Wingstuff.com and look at the reviews on this particualar device....you will understand.

This is a much better product.....and very simple to install.....if you wish I can draw a diagram later.....on how to wire the wig wag......it just a lot of work......and you have to be an electrical engineer....

Try this one......cut one wire and it is installed
Kuryakyn GL1500, GL1800 Pulsating Brake Light Controller - Honda Goldwing Parts and Accessories

Instructions to install this one are located in my photo gallery on this site. Kit
 

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Yes this is what my neighbour has fitted to his :18red:and it works great :clapper:

:leprechaun::18red::leprechaun:
 

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I recently fitted a Wig-Wag to my '06 and I am very happy with it.

I removed the lower part of the trunk, (very easy) and wired the device to the trunk brake lights only.

My reasoning for doing it this way is twofold:-

1) I only want the upper lights flashing, I don't want to leave any doubt in the mind of the following cager that this is a brake light, not some kind of emergency signal.

2) If the Wig-Wag fails, I will still have functioning brake lights at the bottom.

Although signal Dynamics instructions are somewhat minimalist, I believe this is how it is supposed to be installed. They sell a different one if you want to modulate all brake lights together.

BTW two brake lights at 21W = 42W/12V = 3.5 A well within the stated capabilities of the device.
 

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English Bob wrote:
I recently fitted a Wig-Wag to my '06 and I am very happy with it.

I removed the lower part of the trunk, (very easy) and wired the device to the trunk brake lights only.

My reasoning for doing it this way is twofold:-

1) I only want the upper lights flashing, I don't want to leave any doubt in the mind of the following cager that this is a brake light, not some kind of emergency signal.

2) If the Wig-Wag fails, I will still have functioning brake lights at the bottom.

Although signal Dynamics instructions are somewhat minimalist, I believe this is how it is supposed to be installed. They sell a different one if you want to modulate all brake lights together.

BTW two brake lights at 21W = 42W/12V = 3.5 A well within the stated capabilities of the device.
Hi :waving::waving:. I agree with you, but would like to take the time to try to explain, and use your post as a guide for others.

The wig wag and or the back off both the same were originally designed for two light systems. They work great just as English Bob has installed. I have also installed a couple for friends...I just take the trunk inside panel off and the tailight covers and wire it in right there....for those two lights only. And run a short jumper under the trunk and tie it in to the feed wire.

If this is what you want......and you wish both steady lights and modulation at a stop then this is a good deal.

What they do not tell you is the device was not designed for the amp load or the easy application or installation for the 1500 or the 1800. Simply too many lights and the amp load does tend to burn out the device. Also there is only one wire going back to the main lights from the pin connetors under the seat....so easy installation is not so easy. If you want to serve all lights.....modulate all lights.....other devices have been produced specifically for this and for the 1800.

The Kuryakyn one was only recently produced....and put on the market.....it was made for quick and easy installation to one wire....and will carry the amp load of all six tail/lights.

As English has said........if you want only to modulate the trunk lights......these other devices such as the back off and wig wag.....are a cheaper more economical solution to the installation. And quite easy to install....for that purpose.....Kit
 

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I should have expanded a little bit, if you install the Wig-Wag under the seat then it will be on the full brake light load and it is not designed to take it, as Kit has pointed out.

6 lights at 21W = 126W

126W / 12V = 10.5 A, I believe the device is only rated for 10A.

I am specifically referring to the Wig-Wag for bikes with twin brake lights, the Back Off device I don't have any data on.
 
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