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Appreciate all the great help! :cooler:

I'll let you know what I decide on. Since I already bought the wigwag I may just install it to the trunk lights, and leave the saddle bag lights alone.

Looking forward to getting my profile and pics up and running too.
:15red:
 

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scadaman29325 wrote:
jackjohn wrote:
Philcsand, as you are wanting a brake light indicator on the dash board, why not us a fibre-optic instead of another incandescent bulb. This would give you the indicator you want without adding to the power draw on the electrical system.
Do you mean LED? If not, where would you get a Fiber Optic cable/indicator?

Thanks in Advance, Phil
Hi Phil, the Fiber Optic cable is a very thin piece of bendable glass cable. All that is necessary is to drill a small hole in the back of the light source (Brake light/tail Light) stick one end in the hole and seal it up with silastiseal or epoxy (don't get it on the end of the cable) run the cable along the frame up to the dash board and mount it where you can see the end. Fiber optic cable is available through most large electronics outlets. (Not Radio Shack) Probably 1.5 mm would work best in this application.
 

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[align=center]jackjohn
Senior Member
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[align=center]Posts: 954[/align]
[align=center]Hey jackjohn :baffled: how the hell did you get promoted to[/align]
[align=center]"Senior Member" and you onlygot 954 posts :2finger:[/align]
[align=center]:leprechaun::18red::leprechaun:[/align]
 

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First time I've noticed it. I didn't get a notification.

By the way that's a hell of a welcoming phrase you have there.
 

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jackjohn wrote:
scadaman29325 wrote:
jackjohn wrote:
Philcsand, as you are wanting a brake light indicator on the dash board, why not us a fibre-optic instead of another incandescent bulb. This would give you the indicator you want without adding to the power draw on the electrical system.
Do you mean LED? If not, where would you get a Fiber Optic cable/indicator?

Thanks in Advance, Phil
Hi Phil, the Fiber Optic cable is a very thin piece of bendable glass cable. All that is necessary is to drill a small hole in the back of the light source (Brake light/tail Light) stick one end in the hole and seal it up with silastiseal or epoxy (don't get it on the end of the cable) run the cable along the frame up to the dash board and mount it where you can see the end. Fiber optic cable is available through most large electronics outlets. (Not Radio Shack) Probably 1.5 mm would work best in this application.
Thanks JackJohn, I've worked with fiber networksa little bit, but this application is a little different. All the fiber that I work with is VERY small. I just realized that this must bethe typeof stuff that the 'fiber optic Christmas trees' use.

Thanks for the info! Phil
 

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I like the idea of the fiber optic indicator. I think I am going to try this idea out myself.
 

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I have a 2007 GW1800 w/o airbag and I am interested in how you wired the Wig Wag in the lower trunk. Wiring colors etc.
 

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hawkip50 wrote:
I have a 2007 GW1800 w/o airbag and I am interested in how you wired the Wig Wag in the lower trunk. Wiring colors etc.
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Hey hawkip50 :waving: [/align]
[align=center]Welcome to The Worlds Greatest Goldwing Forum. :clapper::clapper::clapper::clapper:[/align]
[align=center]Please update your profile and insert your LOCATION. :action:[/align]
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Welcome HAWKIP50! :waving:

I'm still trying to figure out how to wire mine :?....so many wiring harneses... wires... everywhere! (At least I know how to remove the bottom of my trunk now!):dude:
 

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Kuryakyn GL1800 Pulsating Brake Light Controller I bought this and can not get it to work I followed the instruction, The one wire i found under the seat to be hot when you turn the key on did not work and the one wire i found to become hot when you press the brake would not work.

If anyone has an ideal I'm open for some ideals

Thanks Allen
 

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Kit, I would have liked the Kury version when I did my 04 1800, I only wanted the lights on the trunk to blink so I used the wig wag unit. However I did not like the idea of both lights on one side coming on then switching to the other side. An inattentive driver would almost think you were signalling to turn.

I took off the lower back part of the trunk to access the wiring coming from the lights and added in some additional jumpers. By wiring up the outer lights to the "right" lead and the inner two lights to the "left" lead this allowed the outer two lights to come on, then the inner two, after a few seconds all 4 will blink and then they all will go on solid.

The pattern is like this.....0oo0...o00o...0oo0 etc, then switches to 0000...oooo...0000...etc and finally they all come on and stay on.

It is certainly noticeable. The bottom lights are not affected and work normally. Because of where I hooked them in it also does not affect my trailer brake lights.

Henry
 

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Pattersona,

I'd have to see the wiring diagram for your Kury unit to help you with your situation. I've wired the Signal Dynamics Wig Wag Back off Brake Light modulator on three different bikes, all Gold wings, two 1800s and one 1500 and they've all been, and continue to be, working flawless. I wired them in accordance with the standard instructions that were provided but, I altered the final install just a tad.

Now, again, not seeing the wiring instructions on yours, I'll use the S/D unit as an example. What they have in theirs is, three wires into the unit and two out. Obviously, the two out are for "right and left" brake lights and the three in are:

1. Black for ground

2.Red for regular flash pattern(s) and continuing flashing sequence as long as the brakes are on

3. Orange for regular flash pattern(s) and solid brake lights after the flash sequences is over



I did things kind of simple, I found the wire to each brake light on each side and top and bottom. I then cut them from the harness and soldered in a pig tail for each wire and brought them all to a central point, under the seat, where, I tied them into a screw terminal. On the other side of the screw terminal, I'd attach the two out put wires from the wig wag. Now, the out put side is all taken care of. By moving those pig tails around on the screw terminal(s) I can alter the flash pattern of the brake lights. OK, so much for the out put side of the Wig Wag unit.



As for the input side. You use the main brake light wire, cut it from the harness to the rear of the bike, and tie it into one of the screws on the screw terminal. You then decide which of the two flash patterns that's offered that you'd like. Tie that wire into the screw, opposite of the brake light wire you just put on. The remaining flash pattern wire is left unattached. Hook the ground to a good source of ground.



Now, can this be done with your Kury unit, I have no idea. Again, I'd have to see the wiring diagram to help with that decision. But, if you can do it the way I did it, you'll be real happy for a couple of reasons. One, you have your choice of how the lights flash looking at the rear of the bike, and two, if the unit goes bad, all you have to do is, attach the main brake light wire, to the screw terminals of the right and left, upper and lower brake light pig tails and your Wig Wag unit is completely out of the loop until you get a new one. Simple. Hope this helps at least some.

Scott













 

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I looked at the Kury and watched the demonstration/installation video. It flashes them all at the same time, no back and forth, no patterns except for all of them at the same time. Click on the link that was provided earlier in this thread and watch the video, its quite easy to connect. There are only 3 wires that connect to the unit. The connections are quite simple,

1: Locate the main brake wire under the seat. Either use a Meter to find the wire or a test bug/light.

2: Cut the wire in half, strip each half back slightly, insert into the Kury and tighten the screws.

3: Add in the ground wire and attach it to the chassis/frame.

If it does not work then one of the following are wrong.

You may have used the wrong wire. Make sure the wire goes hot when the brakes are activated. When you cut the wire make sure the brake lights no longer come on before you continue. Also make sure the wire from the brake light switch still goes hot when you put the brakes on.

You may have hooked the two halves of the line into the Kury backwards. Make sure you hook them in according to the instructions...The side that still goes hot when you activate the brakes goes to the "Brake Input" Side, the other half of the wire goes to the "Output to Brake Bulbs" side. The ground wire goes in the middle. Make sure you have scraped the paint away from the chassis connection so you get a good connection.

Use your meter and connect the negative lead to the negative side of the battery, the positive lead to the "Brake Input" connection on the Kury. When you activate the brakes this should go high (+12V or so). If it does not then you probably used the wrong wire.

Move the positive meter lead to the "Ground" connection on the Kury. When you activate the brakes the voltage should not go to 12+ Volts. If it does you do not have a good ground.

If you have everything hooked up properly and it still does not work you have a defective unit.

Henry
 
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