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It aint rocket science
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Hey Guys,

It is time to cut the wind screen down 2".

Did a search and way too many results. What I would like to know is what blade to use in sabre/jig saw. And what sand paper to use for finishing of the job.

JD
 

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I have cut several windshields down on Gold Wingss, most all while on the bike. In fact, just trimmed my 1200's wrap around style some off the sides to narrow it up, height is low enough after last cut a few years ago to see over top.

Decide how much first, then take a Sharpie marker and draw the proposed cut line. I used a compass with sharpie rubber banded in place for pencil end, hung the point over the top edge of the stock wshield, and marked a parallel line ever how far down I wanted to go.

If going down a foot or so, I suggest a strip of wood with a hole drilled for the sharpie and a small block of wood to hang over the top edge, and use it to mark this parallel edge.

I did the two corners with a plastic lid off of a 5 lb. coffee can laid in place to guide me. If you sit on the bike (now might be a good time to take it for a test ride with the sharpie markings in place) and it looks like what you want ... proceed.If not, use windshield polish like "Plexus" and simply clean it off. You can just go to next step and simply tape and mark on the tape where you want to cut it .... I do that sometimes when I know what I want.

Tape with masking tape, along side the cut on the "good side" especially well, and wide. Transfer the marks to top side of masking tape so you can see them now.

Beg, borrow, steal, a variable speed sabre saw, I use a Makita variable where you dial a speed and pull the trigger and that's the speed you get. Install a fine cut metal cutting blade, set saw speed to slow ... on a 1-9 dial I use about 3. Take your time, and without forcing the saw, make the cut from right to left, or left to right as suits you.... just start at one side and go all the way to the other taking it slow and easy and keeping the saw on the line. Don't mind the plastic dust residue.

Cut from front side looking back towards rear of bike, stand on something if need to but keep in mind you want to do it non stop. Low saw speed keeps from melting the plastic and the cut rewelding itself shut behind saw. Fine tooth blade shakes windshield less and makes for smoother cut on it, and a helper with airhose chuck periodically blowing dust away doesn't hurt.

When done, leave tape on good side ... get out your small orbital sander and work that edge with 320 once, then 400 grit some until it feels smooth and round it on front and back, then graduate to 600 paper to really smooth it.

Then use small block of wood wrapped in 600 (if prerfectionist, go to 1000 grit) paper to hand wet sand edge until it starts to really get smooth.

Polish with plastic polish until it looks like glass. Remove tape. Take bike outside and blow or vac all dust off, plastic dust static clings to bike.

Wash front.

Ride.
:waving:


.
 

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Token Canuk
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An added suggestion is to have some way of stabilizing the free cut edges behind your saw, I now use rubber tipped wood clamps, or masking tape , if not there is a "chance" of the free end flapping around and cracking the windshield, :cool: enough said :(
 

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mark it then drill small holes all along the line...dont go too low or you will have to clean it up...not fun... put as many holes as you can 1/16 or 1/8 bit..then start slicing it from hole to hole....finish with file and dremmel,sand paper
 

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Being a cabinet maker, I would caution that you listen to pistol's advise of blade and speed. You could really ruin your shield if you don't. The metal blade is the right choice. And a nice post by pistol in terms of marking/taping the shield.

Personally, I intend to rout mine off when I get to it. Meaning I will clamp a strip of 1/4" MDF to the shield and use a trim router/flush trim bit to cut above the line and then final trim it one more time.

+1 on a friend holding the tail end of the fall off as well.

This topic came up recently......

I was curious to know if our trick in the shop to lightly heat the edge of the polished cut could be used on this type of plastic. We use a pencil torch.....or a heat gun to heat the edge to make it like glass. Nothing technical about how we determine if it's a plastic it will work on......we simply try a piece of the fall off. If you make the cut.....I would be interested to see if it would work. The end result is impressive.

RED
 

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It aint rocket science
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Thanks for the info. It is now on the to do list.:applause:

JD
 

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DriverRider wrote:
Thanks for the info. It is now on the to do list.:applause:

JD

What ...


:waiting:


... you mean youain't done it yet?



:sleepy:



LOL .... :ROFL:
 

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I took mine to the local glass shop. At first he didn't want to do it. Talked him into it, turned out great. Cost? Ten(10) bucks. When he saw me bring in my next bikes shield. He just waved me into the shop. Said it was on me. I have sent many others to him. Tom
 

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DriverRider wrote:
Hey Guys,

It is time to cut the wind screen down 2".

Did a search and way too many results. What I would like to know is what blade to use in sabre/jig saw. And what sand paper to use for finishing of the job.

JD
Good Ideas here..I worked for 4 years in an exhibit house and we worked extensively with Plex..We always used the router deal that was brought up here and then after buffed the edges down with Ruby Rouge. Just can't use a cheap low speed router . Have to use the high speed with good Bits Like DML, Bosch or similiar high quality bits. A jig is a must.:thumbsup:
 
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