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Bought our wing Aug 08, an 1990 GL1500SE ,from a dealerm and know nothing of it's maintenance history. It has 37k miles on & run fine.

Since I do not know the maintenance history & we are planning to take some long trips on it in 2009, here is what I am doing and wondering If there is anything I should add to the list.

1. Replace timing belts
2. New Avon Venom tires front & rear
3. Replace the wheel bearings
4. Flush & fill cooling system
5. Replace brake pads & clean & lube caliper slides
6. Torque steering head bearings
7. Replace U-Joint
8. New Spark plugs
9. Oil & filter change
10. Change fork oil

What else should I add to the list?
 

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Air filter, change all the brake fluids, check all the brake lines if found swollen replace. Replace the radiator hoses. Sync the carbs, check the reverse cable adjustment so it does not sneak up on you.

Think I would take a peek into the master cylinders, if they look clean cool just purge and replace the fluids, if dirty clean them out well.

All I can thing of at the moment. Kit
 

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Thaks kit, have added that to the list.
 

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You might consider cleaning and regreasing rear drive splines and the one on the shaft (can't remember what it's called)

60% moly grease only!!!!!
 

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Scratch the "flush" part of that "flush and fill". Just "drain and fill", if anything. Flushing might cause your water pump to leak.
 

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Change all the light bulbs and a new paint job..........
Gads I didn't think the winters were that long in Tennessee........
 

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37k on a 1500, I'd upgrarde the alternator, the weak spot of the 1500. rebuild or Comp-U-fire with AGM battery.

Mine conked at 20K miles....Sylvania H4 Ultra bulbs for headlights.


ALSO UPGRADE FROM A .25
 

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Kit Carson wrote:
Think I would take a peek into the master cylinders, if they look clean cool just purge and replace the fluids, if dirty clean them out well.
Kit, I have seen more than one post on the forum talking about replacing the brake fluid. What is the reasoning behind that? Is it due to the age of it?
If it were contaminated, you would surely want to change it, but I've never heard of, in the automotive world, to change your brake fluid as a preventative measure. There must be something I missed because you are not the only one who has suggested it.
 

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ponymanr wrote:
Kit Carson wrote:
Think I would take a peek into the master cylinders, if they look clean cool just purge and replace the fluids, if dirty clean them out well.
Kit, I have seen more than one post on the forum talking about replacing the brake fluid. What is the reasoning behind that? Is it due to the age of it?
If it were contaminated, you would surely want to change it, but I've never heard of, in the automotive world, to change your brake fluid as a preventative measure. There must be something I missed because you are not the only one who has suggested it.
Brake fluid < dot 5 has an affinity for water. Also the fluid will get to a lower boiling point as it ages. Accumuation of goo also appears in the lower flow areas after a while and this needs to be cleaned out.

Cars have redundant systems and the MC and slaves are larger and can tolerate deteriorated conditions better than the smaller parts on bikes can.

On the original subject, winter is a good time to do electrical things. Particularly removing and cleaning up old bad wiring jobs and adding more or better light and horns.
Might also boost that sound system too if you have the power and wiring for it.
 

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Rudy wrote:
ponymanr wrote:
Kit Carson wrote:
Think I would take a peek into the master cylinders, if they look clean cool just purge and replace the fluids, if dirty clean them out well.
Kit, I have seen more than one post on the forum talking about replacing the brake fluid. What is the reasoning behind that? Is it due to the age of it?
If it were contaminated, you would surely want to change it, but I've never heard of, in the automotive world, to change your brake fluid as a preventative measure. There must be something I missed because you are not the only one who has suggested it.
Brake fluid < dot 5 has an affinity for water. Also the fluid will get to a lower boiling point as it ages. Accumuation of goo also appears in the lower flow areas after a while and this needs to be cleaned out.

Cars have redundant systems and the MC and slaves are larger and can tolerate deteriorated conditions better than the smaller parts on bikes can.

On the original subject, winter is a good time to do electrical things. Particularly removing and cleaning up old bad wiring jobs and adding more or better light and horns.
Might also boost that sound system too if you have the power and wiring for it.
That awful looking Santa Clause just about explained it. Our service manuals call for the brake fluid to be changed no longer than at a two year period. Brake fluid is clear when new , with time it turns amber and water absorption takes place and gunk is the result, that all settles and plugs up the pressure tappings. Not too bad normally, but a bike ten years old , never had the fluid changed, can be a mess.

They recommend it in cars too, at two years. Coolant at two or 4 years depending on the make.

Just a good thing to do. Keep things clean and working well.

Kit
 

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Thanks Rudy and Kit, That filled in the missing part!
 

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English Bob:

Thanks.

I'll do that when I replace the U-joint
 

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Kit & Ponyman:

Brake & clutch fluids already flushed , Master & slave cylinders cleaned.
thanks

Popeye:

Have new aloternator isolators, Brushes & bearings to Install.
Thanks

English Bob;

Side covers already tethered.
Thanks

Foodman:

Replaced the headlights with 90/130 all-weather bulbs, and the other bulbs with led bulbs to equalize the alternator load, but the paint is in good shape and has been cleaned & polished.
thanks

If fact, Thanks to all of you, y'all make this a great forum.:cool:


:
 

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Big John
Man you have way too much free time..
Can I ship my bike over to you next winter????
It'll probably need an over haul by then..
Thanks in advance...........
 

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Naaw, Foodman, I've got PMS.......Parked Motorcycle Syndrome.
I bet I have It ready by New Years, did my Sabre & Magna last December, but I knew the history of those bikes. Even cleaned & rebuilt the Carbs, did the oil modification on both, adjusted the valves & cam chain tensioners, Braided brake & clutch lines, & a kevlar clutch in the Sabre + most of the above list, but just cleaned & lubed the U-joint, and the alternators were in great shape. Got them ready to ride for another 10 years or so, then got the Wing so Eleanor could ride along, found and joined this forum & we had great time meeting some wonderful members in person at Calhoun, looking foward to meeting more.

Some of us just want the bike to be ready when we are. And the ONE thing I do NOT want to have happen is to break down on a trip with Eleanor along.

Want to ride next year, not ride some repair some...repeat
 

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You need another hobby, or two or three...........
 

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Big John; if you don't have it consider road service option on your insurance. I had a flat in Nowhere, Wy this past summer and while it was certainly inconvenient it was a lot less of a problem because the $320 tow charge was picked up by insurance.
 

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big john ; heres something alot of riders miss remove the speed o cable and relubitcate it. just take it off at the front wheel and pull it out then lub and reinstall. i had a few go on me in my riding career this cable conrols the cruise control and speedometer, turn signal cancelling ,volumn control. also change out the rear diff. fluids. and check the seal on the output shaft where it enters the rear diff.this gets expensive to replace, this i know from experience
 

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Thanks Lenny b. thie speedometer cable lube is a great reminder, hadn't thought of that at all.

The final drive seal will be replaced when I replace the U-joint, and If the splines on the drive shaft are worn a new drive shaft. When slowing from very high speedsw and the u-joint gets into a no torque situation is causes a mild vibration, due the slack betewwn the u-jiont & the drive shaft, but only when the u-joint is in a float or no torque mode, then quits when the bike gets under 75mph.
 
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