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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
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Greetings, heres the deal, bought new wires( 8mm greys- suppression core)from crescent, and installed them today into new coils from same vender.



I am hoping that i did not screw up:((second guessing).



The instructions said to cut back a part of the outer and bend back the exposed core before adding the new clip to end of wire. Here's the concern, these wires have three layers( grey outer on white on black)into center fiber core.I cut awayall coatings and folded back the fibers then added the clips on each wire. When i saw how fragile the fibers were i freaked out but continued( to late now:shock:).



So, did i destroy these wires and my bike may not start/run when i put it back together?
:?


I am hoping for good news, today was a VERY productive day( timig belts are replaced, valves are adjusted, new coils are mounted:banana:).
 

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1993 gl1500, 1976 gl1000
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All is well. Normal for that type of plug wire. You did good!
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
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Update I got the bike back together and got it to start and run(yeh), it's back-firing at idle speeds though. So far so good.
 

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All sounds the right way to go now that you have good spark!! you will have to first adjust the air fuel screws. that will help the popping at Idle, then a good carb sync if its sluggish on the getty up. Oh yah clean or replace points if you have not. Good luck..
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
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Treetrans wrote:
All sounds the right way to go now that you have good spark!! you will have to first adjust the air fuel screws. that will help the popping at Idle, then a good carb sync if its sluggish on the getty up. Oh yah clean or replace points if you have not. Good luck..
Thanks for responding, i guess i will have to go after the "air fuel screws" in the morning. I don't see how i can do a"carb sync" until i get a set of gauges.

And my bike has the electronic set-up.:waving:
 

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2Dahorizon wrote:
I don't see how i can do a"carb sync" until i get a set of gauges.
I'm so cheap that when I hold a nickle the buffalo bellows. I have found that if I truly need something I can almost always make it.

I got some clear tubing and attached it to a board in a U shape using zip ties.Thensiphoned in a small amount of ATF. Vacuum adapters can be made by center drilling a 5mm bolt and then cutting the head off. A few wraps of Teflon tape on the threads should seal them when installed into the vacuum ports of the intakes.
Some owners use restricters in the tubing to steady the vacuum impulses but I just let mine bounce. When the highs are matched the lows will also be matched. On my '76 the non-adjustable carb is#3. Using the throttle adjust linkage; adjust #1 to match #3 and #2 to match #4, then adjust throttle linkage adjustment near the #4 carb toadjust the left side to match the right side.

If #1/#3 are syncd and #2/#4 are syncd, then either vacuum port on each side maybe used to sync left to right.

One more thing, make sure you're NOT trying to adjust the carbs using the Idle Air adjust needle. Use the slotted screw with the 10mm lock nut. It's a quick process, About 10 minutes or so, once I left the Idle air adjust needle alone.

Terry
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
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terry_208 wrote:
2Dahorizon wrote:
I don't see how i can do a"carb sync" until i get a set of gauges.
I'm so cheap that when I hold a nickle the buffalo bellows. I have found that if I truly need something I can almost always make it.

I got some clear tubing and attached it to a board in a U shape using zip ties.Thensiphoned in a small amount of ATF. Vacuum adapters can be made by center drilling a 5mm bolt and then cutting the head off. A few wraps of Teflon tape on the threads should seal them when installed into the vacuum ports of the intakes.
Some owners use restricters in the tubing to steady the vacuum impulses but I just let mine bounce. When the highs are matched the lows will also be matched. On my '76 the non-adjustable carb is#3. Using the throttle adjust linkage; adjust #1 to match #3 and #2 to match #4, then adjust throttle linkage adjustment near the #4 carb toadjust the left side to match the right side.

If #1/#3 are syncd and #2/#4 are syncd, then either vacuum port on each side maybe used to sync left to right.

One more thing, make sure you're NOT trying to adjust the carbs using the Idle Air adjust needle. Use the slotted screw with the 10mm lock nut. It's a quick process, About 10 minutes or so, once I left the Idle air adjust needle alone.

Terry
COOL, INTERESTING, something i will have to build up to though (lack of parts and a coulpe tools), definately better than 200+( i guess):clapper:.
 
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