[Richardrwg]

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I have an 83 1100I, and inside the bucket for the headlight there are two sets of wires with connectors that don't go to anything. I've checked the Clymers manual and it dosen't mention these wires at all, I'm assuming they there for turning lights which my bike dosen't have. Is this what the're for or are they for something else?



If they are for turning lights, where would they have been mounted, (pics would be appreciated).


Also a follow up question, I'm looking at putting in a set of running lights, where is the best place to wire these into the system? Do you just hook them up to the accessory fuse or do you connect them in with the headlights?

 

[GSMacLean]

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For running lights, you need to run a fused wire directly to the battery (with fuse as close to the battery as possible), and put a relay on it, that is actuated by the accessory terminal. The accessory terminal does not have enough capacity to run running lights, and the headlight fuse/wiring is designed to run the headlight, not extra lights.

 

[chris in va]

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By 'running lights' you mean extra headlights, don't do it on the 1100. The stator can't handle the load. Ask me how I know!

 

[Richardrwg]

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What I was looking to do was attach a single 55 watt light to follow the direction of the front wheel when it turns.

Any idea as to the purpose of the wires in the headlight bucket?

 

[RB]

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What color are the extra wires

 

[GSMacLean]

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chris in va wrote:

By 'running lights' you mean extra headlights, don't do it on the 1100. The stator can't handle the load. Ask me how I know!

Not true. I put two 35-watt H4 lights on my 1100, and it handles the load quite easily.

 

[83GoldWinger]

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:waving:The accessory terminals are provided to power 12 voltaccessories up to a maximum of 60 watts (5 amps). Higher current demands may blow the fuse or discharge the battery. You can safely power 2 30 wattauxillary driving lights from the accessory terminal which is the maxumum as they will draw a total of 5 amps. This iscalculated by the formula: Current=Power divided by Voltage which is 60 watttsdivided by 12 volts=5 amps.

 

[Richardrwg]

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Don't recall the colors, right now I have to be a doctors appt. I'll be back inabout an hour and I'll check the wires and post the colors.

 

[Richardrwg]

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83GoldWinger wrote:

:waving:The accessory terminals are provided to power 12 voltaccessories up to a maximum of 60 watts (5 amps). Higher current demands may blow the fuse or discharge the battery. You can safely power 2 30 wattauxillary driving lights from the accessory terminal which is the maxumum as they will draw a total of 5 amps. This iscalculated by the formula: Current=Power divided by Voltage which is 60 watttsdivided by 12 volts=5 amps.

THIS IS WHY I PUT A BUCKET OF FROGS IN THE DRAWERS OF MY MATH TEACHERS DESK.

 

[GSMacLean]

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83GoldWinger wrote:

:waving:The accessory terminals are provided to power 12 voltaccessories up to a maximum of 60 watts (5 amps). Higher current demands may blow the fuse or discharge the battery. You can safely power 2 30 wattauxillary driving lights from the accessory terminal which is the maxumum as they will draw a total of 5 amps. This iscalculated by the formula: Current=Power divided by Voltage which is 60 watttsdivided by 12 volts=5 amps.

But do you really want to be pulling the maximum design current, full-time, from a 30 year old wiring harness? Or would you rather run your own, brand-new wire directly to the battery, and add only a trifling load (to energize a relay) to the accessory terminal? I know which option I selected.

 

[83GoldWinger]

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GSMacLean wrote:

83GoldWinger wrote:

:waving:The accessory terminals are provided to power 12 voltaccessories up to a maximum of 60 watts (5 amps). Higher current demands may blow the fuse or discharge the battery. You can safely power 2 30 wattauxillary driving lights from the accessory terminal which is the maxumum as they will draw a total of 5 amps. This iscalculated by the formula: Current=Power divided by Voltage which is 60 watttsdivided by 12 volts=5 amps.

But do you really want to be pulling the maximum design current, full-time, from a 30 year old wiring harness? Or would you rather run your own, brand-new wire directly to the battery, and add only a trifling load (to energize a relay) to the accessory terminal? I know which option I selected.

:waving:I know what condition my wiring is in since I have owned this bike since new. I've been all through my '83 and I would have no problem adding 2 30watt aux lights to the accessory terminal which would not be on full time. I don't plan on doing this but at a later time I might add 2 13 watt HID aux lights which would draw2.166 amps.

 

[GSMacLean]

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Be careful with HID lights (true HID lights, the ones with separate ballasts). From my experience, they draw a large amount of current (3 to 4 times their rated current) at startup, and gradually ramp down to their rated current as they warm up, around 15-20 seconds or so.

 

[83GoldWinger]

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GSMacLean wrote:

Be careful with HID lights (true HID lights, the ones with separate ballasts). From my experience, they draw a large amount of current (3 to 4 times their rated current) at startup, and gradually ramp down to their rated current as they warm up, around 15-20 seconds or so.

:waving:These lightsare in myAeroStich, which is located in Duluth, MN, catalog and next time I'm back there I will stop in and check out the 13 watt HID lights which are fairly compact with no external ballasts.