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1983 Honda GL1100 Aspencade
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Discussion Starter #1
I have an 83 1100 Aspencade, bearings are new, forks rebuilt, new front and rear tires (balanced) all done in a bike shop. No issues with acceleration or cruising, only wants to wobble when decelerating.... Anyone have any thoughts/suggestions? Would be hugely appreciative!
 

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1983 Honda GL1100 Aspencade
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7 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
Also had brakes done and a new front rotor.. (aftermarket) slightly smaller... Cod this be the culprit?
 

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2003 GL1800A
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555 Posts
Wobble on decel, at about 30 mph is a mystery for the ages, commonly attributed to steering head bearings needing to be re-torqued or replaced.

Some will blame tires and replace them, but the condition returns after a few thousand miles.

How does a smaller rotor work, given the brake pads are a set distance away from the hub?
 

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1983 Honda GL1100 Aspencade
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Discussion Starter #4
Wobble on decel, at about 30 mph is a mystery for the ages, commonly attributed to steering head bearings needing to be re-torqued or replaced.

Some will blame tires and replace them, but the condition returns after a few thousand miles.

How does a smaller rotor work, given the brake pads are a set distance away from the hub?
The Mechanic got this aftermarket rotor from EBC brakes... Stopping isn't an issue, but I'm wondering if the slight variation in diameter could be a contributor to my issue.... And I should mention that when the forks were being worked on, he broke the main air input hose for the front fork and JB welded a tire fitting onto the fork head... Not impressed with that, as a professional welder, I could have found a better solution. Due to this Covid Crap going on, I couldn't get parts from Honda, but I was thinking about a small mod I could make to allow the pump to work for the front again... I don't like the idea of using either a bicycle pump, or an air compressor to charge the forks up....
 

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As long as the top of the pads is not above the outer edge of the rotor it shouldn't matter. It's not enough to lessen the gyro effect of it much anyway. Maybe snug the steering head bearings a little more.
 

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1983 Honda GL1100 Aspencade
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7 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Just looking at that now Dave, and in all truth, I've noticed on the new rotor that there is only about 5/8" of wear from the pads on the outer edge of the rotor.... And yes, I will look at tightening down the steering head, seeing as how I have the fairing off now.. Thanks! Hope it does the trick
 

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2012 GL1800
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530 Posts
Just don't over tighten the bearings, it will create a new problem that the bikes wants to wander on the road.
Over tighten the bearings slightly, loosen them and then torque to specs.
 

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1987 GL1200 Interstate
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22,764 Posts
Wobble on my bike has ALWAYS been rear tire wear. Some brands are worse than others with METZLER being the WORST and Dunlops nearly as bad. Pirellis have been the best with Bridgestones a close second.

What brand tires are you using, is it a matched set, and how much air are you putting in the tires?
 

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1983 Honda GL1100 Aspencade
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Discussion Starter #9
Just don't over tighten the bearings, it will create a new problem that the bikes wants to wander on the road.
Over tighten the bearings slightly, loosen them and then torque to specs.
Thank you! Will be continuing work on it tomorrow morning!
 

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1983 Honda GL1100 Aspencade
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Discussion Starter #10
Wobble on my bike has ALWAYS been rear tire wear. Some brands are worse than others with METZLER being the WORST and Dunlops nearly as bad. Pirellis have been the best with Bridgestones a close second.

What brand tires are you using, is it a matched set, and how much air are you putting in the tires?
Thank you! Will be continuing work on it tomorrow morning!
Pulled the upper bearing, though in truth, I should truly have replaced both upper and lower, however, I cleaned the upper bearing, repacked with fresh grease and reinstalled, torqued to specs as per my Clymber Manual... Took it for a short boot up the road, seems to have fixed the issue! Now I have to modify my front air input from the air pump. Wanted to say Thank You Very Much! Working on all the mechanical on this ol' gal before addressing the cosmetics.. I bought it and she was in rough shape, working on giving her a good home... Eventually get to fixing what I've dubbed the Frankenfairing! Need to run some carb cleaner through.... Lots of little details to debug.... Again, thank you for your wisdom in this wee matter! Hope you're enjoying the riding season! 👍
Wobble on my bike has ALWAYS been rear tire wear. Some brands are worse than others with METZLER being the WORST and Dunlops nearly as bad. Pirellis have been the best with Bridgestones a close second.

What brand tires are you using, is it a matched set, and how much air are you putting in the tires?
Running Dunlop D404's. Mechanic set the tire pressure... Yes, I used to run Bridgestone Spitfires on my old Magna... Beautiful tires... I cleaned and repacked the upper steering head bearing this morning, and torqued it to spec, took it for a short run and all seems fine for now, haven't put the fairing back on yet until I modify the front fork air input line... Mechanic chewed it.... Thank you for your help, safe riding!
 

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You could remove a front brake, rotor and all, and it would not cause a wobble, as you have one front tire with one contact patch. I would reduce braking power. My Triumph had only one front disc brake, no wobbles. It's not like you have front wheels on each side to pull in a direction. Deceleration or braking does shift weight to the front and makes a slight change in trail as the front drops.
 

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1983 Honda GL1100 Aspencade
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Discussion Starter #12
You could remove a front brake, rotor and all, and it would not cause a wobble, as you have one front tire with one contact patch. I would reduce braking power. My Triumph had only one front disc brake, no wobbles. It's not like you have front wheels on each side to pull in a direction. Deceleration or braking does shift weight to the front and makes a slight change in trail as the front drops.
I have thought about doing just that, as I have eliminated this issue down to 3 things: Brakes too tight, as they are scruffing.. ( new pads all around).. #2 perhaps the lower steering stem bearings (uppers inspectected, cleaned, re packed , and torqued to spec) , and finally #3: Crappy new tires (heard alot about Dunlop's, first run on them)... Or a combination of all three, which I'm not going to discount at this time, until I whittle this problem down to an absolute "Eureka!" moment.. thank you for your input! Much appreciated, I've had bikes that have been beaten up terribly,( especially off roads) yet keep on rolling... There is something yet to be addressed on this bike, everyone's input here has been gratefully received, will be keeping in communique as this unfurls! Again, I bout this ol' gal, and she looked and smelled like an old beer.... Promised her a good home, and so far, I think I'm on the winning team here! 👍👍
 

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1987 GL1200 Interstate
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If they are indeed new tires...say, less that 1500 miles...and you are running the air at 40+ pounds, I'd be inclined to not suspect the tires, but. Those really are crappy tires, for sure.
 
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