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You never, ever, try to test a fuel pump that is NOT immersed in gasoline.

if you do, it will burn up almost immediately.

the gasoline is what keeps the motor cool.

the proper test is to put a length of hose on the pump's output and then have a jar/can raised up about 2 feet higher than the pump.

the pump should fill that can in short order.... a #303 can, not a gallon container. about a pint
 

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To AZGL1800 Moderator/ 1985 fuel pump ?

O K Moderator.

I comprehend your instructions and will be doing exactly as instructed in the near future.
As of right now I know the fuel pump motor has no continuity. This check was done prior to running 12vdc directly to the female electrical plug originating at the fuel pump motor.

So would it be safe to say the motor was bad before I jumped the 12vdc to the fuel pump motor?

Thanks Rick
 

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I have never tried to measure the resistance of a good fuel pump, but it is a DC motor and it stands to reason that "should have some continuity"...

how much? I don't know.

the only thing I cared about was that it hums and fuel spurts out :)
 

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I believe the GL1200 fuel pumps are pulse/diaphragm so if there's pressure in the outlet line there's no continuity, when the pressure drops on the outlet line it pulses until the pressure comes up to specification then stops.
 

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I believe the GL1200 fuel pumps are pulse/diaphragm so if there's pressure in the outlet line there's no continuity, when the pressure drops on the outlet line it pulses until the pressure comes up to specification then stops.
i forgot he was talking about a 1200, I was using the logic for a 1500 fuel pump.
 

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Simple things changed over the years so not every 1500 works like every other 1500.

My 88 1500 the pump will run just flipping the key on and off and not cranking or anything. Also with engine off I can fill the carb bowls just flipping on off the key. 88 does have a vacuum petcock also I'm pretty sure.
I did this to fill the carbs for push starting after I let the 88 sit a long time after that deer hit it.
However, I can also just turn on the key and use reverse without the engine running on the 88. My newer 1500's like 95 and 99 reverse will not work unless engine is running. Sometimes it's simple changes like that which can make things confusing.

I'm sure somehow Honda decided it safer for reverse to NOT work if engine not running, I consider it rather dumb and a problem at times, also unsafe!
What if 1000lb bike dies and it needs to be rolled backwards up a little hill to get out of a road??? One thing to not have a reverse at all on a bike, but if it does have reverse then it should work!

Sure was nice with 88 to be able to back up a hill a little then roll to start it (since my idler gear was busted and had to always roll start).
With 95 and 99 it's a pain that if they sit a long time and hard to start I just have to keep cranking on them till they do start or battery goes dead. I have to back up a hill in my drive to get out but then I can roll a long long ways down hill to roll start if I wanted/needed, but of course cannot do that since the engine has to be running to back up!

Again it's nice the 88 reverse works without engine running. She been sitting well over a year and I'm sure will be hard to start! SO I can roll her down a little hill at the shop and if she don't start then just back up the hill a bit and try again. If I get the battery a bit low just swap batteries and charge up the low battery while using the other full charged battery.
Chromo, it would be a simple thing to make reverse work without the engine running in your later 1500s. Just disconnect the oil pressure switch input to the reverse control unit. Also a push button switch could be added to run the pump to prime the carbs.
 
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