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1983 Aspencade.Bike was running when I bought it from the P.O.That was in about July or so.Since then I have been screwing around with the brakes.So in that time I never started the bike because he had the tank out and the brakes delayed me getting around to actually ever starting the bike.

Well I got the tank in today with a new fuel line and fuel filter.The tank probably has 3 gallons of new gas in there.Tank is clean inside.Battery charged up nice to about 12.5v or so.

When I turn the key the digital dash comes alive,horn works,turn signals work.So electric seems o.k.

Bike will turn over real strong but not start.

I have spark to all four cylinders.

I have fuel coming out the new fuel line into the fuel pump and out the fuel pump into the carb.I know that because I unscrewed the connectors and let some fuel drain.But thats where the trail goes cold.

The manuals do not help me.Either the black Honda manual or the Clymers.

Can anyone get me going on troubleshooting this thing?
 

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hi tom if you have spark and fuel as far as the carbs i can only assume the gas is not getting to the cylinders or the air intake is blocked remove the air filter and if this cheques out OK, pour a small amount of gas into the carb in takes and crank the bike to see if its firing if it fires you will have to pull the carbs for a clean out the wings don't like to be left lying around as they have a habit of the gas turning to jelly in the float chambers you can try tapping the float bowels in case the valves are stuck
 

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Hi Tom

Just try gently tapping the fuel bowls, the floats may just be stuck and not allowing fuel in. Good Luck Tom
 

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"jelly in the float chambers " Oh man...you're killing me.JELLY.I hate gas jelly.

Would a few minutes with a torch to the float bowls help? (C'mon man...I'm just kidding.It'd take more than a few minutes...even I know that.)

O.K. If I remember correctly when I learned what I could about internal combustion engines the only need GAS to start.Thats gas,air and spark.Of course there is also the timing issue and proportions too but this guy won't even cough.Just turns over.

I was wondering if a wire needed to be connected somewhere like a ground for the gas tank or something.You know one of them security things designed into the process to keep me from blowing the place up?

I noticed the tank has two male pins on the top.One is color coded green so I hooked it to the green wire.The other has no color but it got the second wire.

What do you think?

I'm on those float bowl in the morning.

Air filter looks good too.

Now where am I putting this gas in the carb intakes?Remove what to get to the intake?I'll bet its starving for fuel at the cylinder.I hope there is no damn jelly in there.
 

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O.K. tapped the bowls.No change.Come to think of it I don't smell any gas.So its not flooded but then again maybe no gas is passing into the carbs either.
Damn...was hoping to avoid taking the carbs out.Was hoping at least it'd start.Oh crap.Well there is always tomorrow.Wasn't doing anything but working on the Goldwing anyway.
 

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Hi Tom, check the compression on all four cylinders, stranger things have happened. Also your description didn't give me any reason to think you might have had the coils out but if you did, it is possible that the blue and yellow wires got reversed when reassembling. It they are reversed, the spark is 180 degrees out so it looks good but won't start.
 

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Thanks for the thought jackjohn but you see it was running at the P.O.'s place and he delivered it to me so unless he sabotaged the this bike to keep me interested or something and since you are correct...I have not touched the coils yet.
I also thought of a timing issue but how did it jump time from his house to mine?
I'm thinking the carbs are starved for fuel.Something is keeping fuel outta the cylinders.Guess I'm going in tomorrow morning.Better start early.I'll need all day just to get them off,looked at,diagnosed,repaired and replaced.
The P.O. did tell me he had the carbs off and I think he said he used a Randakk carb rebuild kit but he felt he left something dirty because it idles a bit high.Sounded to me more like an air leak keeping the idle a bit high.
 

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Well you might want to do some reading at this site ->Honda GL1000 Restoration Specialist - Randakk's Cycle Shakk

Perhaps you have already done some reading there . Most of the 1000 model info will transfer over to the 1100 . Of course there is some specifics that dont . Overall he has a very valuable bit of info .
 

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What do your plugs look like? Dry or wet? Take all four out, turn the motor over and smell for gas.

FWIW I rebuilt my carb rack a couple months ago. They weren't so much plugged up with gelled gas as they were crammed with gas tank sediment. Two carbs weren't getting gas at all due to the crud built up at the little micro screens feeding the bowls.


BTW 12.5 isn't really charged up that well. I'd feel better if you had said 12.8.

Also due to the mechanical fuel pump, it takes a LONG time to prime the carbs. Take the plugs out and turn the bike over for a couple minutes.
 

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Pull your plugs out. Put them into their boots & rest them on the cylinder heads so you can check for spark. Are they wet or dry?

Key on, Kill switch in the run position, Hit the start button. If you see spark, stop cranking. replace plugs if they are in good visual condition. switch fuel to reserve, Pull choke & try to start again.

No safety wire on your fuel tank. Fuel, air & ignition is the burn recipe, compression helps but I dont think that is your issue.

keep us posted.
 

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As already mentioned, check for fuel by cranking the engine with the choke on for a few seconds then pull the plugs to check for fuel on the business ends. If dry you have a problem with fuel getting to the carburetor. Disconnect the fuel line from the #3 carb and see if you get any fuel out of the hose while cranking the engine. If not check the pump and petcock. If you do get fuel then the problem is in the carbs most likely all four of them have blockages or bad float valves.

If you do have fuel on the spark plugs when you check them, check for spark by pulling the plugs out, connecting them back up and laying them on the cylinder head. With the petcock off, crank the engine and see if you have good spark.
 

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good to see your back paul! Hope your new roads are more fun than your seattle ones.
 

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Before pulling and dismantling the carbs I would drop the float bowls and see if there is fuel in them. I'm betting the float valve in the #3 carb is stuck.
 

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hatchetman wrote:
good to see your back paul! Hope your new roads are more fun than your seattle ones.
So far they are, about one per cent as many cars on them!
 

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Alright gentlemen.I'm back out there today.Took notes on your advice which is much appreciated.Could not do this without some input from you guys.The books...well you know about the books...right?
BrokeWinger says "drop the float bowls..." before pulling the carbs but WHAT THE HELL! I can't get my meats in there to get the bowl bolts off.So how about it I look for fuel on the #3 bowl by pulling the drain plug?

Chrisinva you say "...a long time" to prime the carbs? How long? Thirty seconds of cranking? Generally speaking I'm the kind of guy that will not crank a bike for that long thinking it should start on a tap.But if your experience says otherwise I'll go with that.
Onawingandaprayer.I like that line in your signature about "some assembly required"That is the case with mine!

Jackjohn thanks for the heads up on the coil wire.I had been tracking that down as well.Looks fine right now.In fact I'd say they have not been touched in the 25 years since this machine left OHIO! Thats one thing I like so much about these ressurection projects.I think of them as "Living Relics"
Here's a little rant on the black Honda manual.Piece of junk.Save your money.Get a Clymers instead and a cheap digital camera so you can take pics of anything before you take it apart and then refer to those pics when reassembling.Wish I could get the $50 back I spent on that manual.I'd buy a set of carb balancers with the money instead.
I'll check back in later.Stay tuned for updates."C'mon Wing...ROAR for me!"
 

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When it comes time to get the carbs out...and I think that time will come later today because I am thinking the float bowls are involved here can I rely on the Clymers manual for direction?
Or is there a write up somewhere in this board I should read?
You know...pictures with arrows and comments written by a guy that just did it not an engineer sitting at a desk.No offense to engineers meant.I used to work in an engineering department at one time.
 

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tom with the air filter off put a soda bottle cap full of gas down each barrel of the carbs and crank as i said if the bike fires you have to go in after the carbs
 

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two things..yep, unscrew the #3 drain if no gas..stuck float most likely and it feeds all the other carbs,

Put some gas in a spray bottle, take the air filter off and spray gas or use starter fluid or even carb cleaner( Spray is more efficient distribution method) in while cranking if it starts..back to pulling the carbs. Be careful of backfire though!!!!

Getting them out is a jiggling act, once you get the right side caps off and the cables and fuel line disconnected. crash bars may have to be loosened or removed on the left side or pull the intakes of the left side.most don't do that. They can come out in one piece except for the right side caps and the air box, it's just a very tight fit.
 

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O.K. guys.Had a power outage here for the last two hours or so and its raining so couldn't take the bike outdoors to work on it and had no lights in the garage.
Back in order now so I'll get to it and report back here.
Thanks for the information.
 

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Tom...
before you start tearing apart the carbs you can check to see if gas is making it to the bowls by loosening the screw on the bottom of the bowl. Each bowl has a 'drain screw' that is about the size of a dime or a little smaller. They face out from the center of the carbs and can be a real bear to loosen if someone has overtightened them. Use a long, large screwdriver to try to loosen them... a small screwdriver can cause damage like rounding off the slot.

If you need to remove the carbs here's a hint: You don't have to loosen the engine guard bar. Remove the air filter box, remove the bolts that hold the intake to the head. Then loosen the screws that hold the intake manifolds to the carbs, insert a large screwdriver INSIDE the manifolds from the bottom side and PRY off the manifolds pushing in a upward and out direction. By removing the manifolds you make for a lot more room and easier disassembly of the throttle cables...which is next.
If you have a model with a fairing you'll want to remove the left front carb top (at least). The rest of the proceedure is fairly basic... fuel line and choke cable, etc.
Good luck.
 
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