[RikPardun]

Hi all,

I have a 92 GL1500 that I bought last year after I finally gave up trying to duct tape my ventures plastic back together.

I have had it since last fall and have put about 10k miles on it. Which, for NY is quite a bit of riding. It has 108K miles on it and is in excellent condition.

Now while I am not mechanically declined, I usually don't love jumping into the guts of stuff until I have a need to. Recently I have noticed the brakes are chattering when the brake pedal is not depressed so I am going to change brake pads and clean stuff up per the forum posts that I have seen on here. I was also investigating a front end wobble and found the metzeler tire cupping issue that is quite common so I will be replacing tires this week as well. So I figure, while I have this stuff opened up, gonna do a basic tuneup and stuff, what other things are items I should look at, be aware of, inspect, etc. I know what the back of the manual says but what do YOU guys say? There are so many posts about fork seals and pressure and bearings and stuff that it makes my head spin. How bout a list of the most common or most important things I should learn how to check/adjust/repair on these bikes. If you have links to other forum posts that give instructions but if not, I can surely do the leg work, I just need some things to track down.

Thoughts? Like I said, there is nothing obviously wrong but just because it isn't blatant, doesn't mean I shouldn't be looking at it.

Would love to hear everyones take on this.

Regards,

Rik

Combat Veterans Motorcycle Association
FM#7995

 

[rpeters549]

Many of the posts detail a lot of this. Since you are not super mechanically inclined you might not want to tackle the carbs or anything, but much of the maintenance does not require a huge amount of skill. Just common sense and the ability to go a step at a time.

With the front end off the ground (jack/wood under the motor) you can check the steering bearings. Twist left/right and see if rough, loose, flat spots, etc. Mine have a tick under 99k and they feel perfect.
When you do the brakes, clean (with a toothbrush and brake clean spray) the pistons before pushing them back in. Clean and grease the caliper pins (that allow the two halves of the caliper to slide). A sign this is an issue is one brake pad badly worn and the other not so much on the same caliper.
If the timing belts have never been changed it is easier with the wheel out of the way. This is a job that takes a while, but with the tutorial you could spend about $35 and a handful of hours nd be done. Again, not hard, but follow the directions.
Ad for forks, I have chosen not to mess with them. When I did my timing belts I removed them and dropped tham at the shop for a rebuild. Makes doing belts real easy as far as space goes, and for about $100 I had 100% fresh forks (oil, seals, etc).
Change the coolant. I assume you stay up on oil/filter changes.
Synchronize the carbs. After my annual tear apart and tune session I have realized a gain of 1-3 mpg. My carbs were within Honda spec (less than 2" out of synch) but I went all anal on it and got them to within 1/4". Easy, just need the tool.
Check the cruise and sub filters. Make some out of cheap foam paint brushes for less than $1. Easy! And the shape does not have to be perfect because they will squish to fit.

Out back?
Brakes, same as front.
Grease the drive splines requires removal of the rear wheel. I have used a basic high temp red bearing grease for the life of the bike so far, used annually, with no to minimal signs of wear. Many will say use Moly-60. Make your own decision there.
Change the oil in the drive unit. Easy, cheap.
Consider drying the dessicant in your air pump if you have one.
Inside the guts of the bike?
Check the air filter. Fuel filter is right next to the filler cap. Many on here use the NAPA #3003. It does not fit the rubber holder, but just sits off to the side.
Anywho, this just off the top of my head.

Goldwings are wonderful bikes. Extremely capable, but highly technical. So they require a little more preventative attention to make sure all the sensitive stuff does as it should.
Rich

 

[bones200]

Recommend changing brake and clutch fluids in addition(I didn't see it mentioned on other post). Make sure no sludge in master cylinders.

 

[BUDDTWO]

You may also try goldwingdocs.com they have a how to do on the 1500s and other year goldwings----------------------------------Hal

 

[dj norm]

Wow that wraps it around perty good
I guess once you done that once a year you will keep this bike for ever .

the odd time check those Wheel bearing

Dont forget the gaz level the tire presure and enjoy the ride safely with your mind at eaze knowing the bike you are riding is A-1
:waving:

 

[RikPardun]

Ya, I am not terribly concerned about finding the how to stuff because there is a ton of stuff on this site, the one you mentioned, and in various other places. My main question is WHAT would be the priorities to look at when there isn't anything obviously wrong and rpeters549 gave some great starting points. Think I will make a list and post back.

A few other items that I have thought about since the original post.

1. I have yet to play with the suspension, have not added or subtracted air. Is that going to add height, stiffness, or both?

2. I had a minor stroke today when I priced out new tires. Dunlop E3's. After reading more forums on here, there are as many opinions as members. Do most people stick to the stock 130/70 B18 for the Front and the 160/80 B16 for the rears? I have heard good reviews for the Avon Venom as well but the price delta is negligible. Some folks are even putting a car tire on in back. Any reason I should stray from and E3 or a Venom in the sizes that came on the bike? I am still sticker shocked but slowly getting on with my life.

Thanks for all the info. It helps a lot.

Rik

 

[OnaWingAndaPrayer]

the car tire on the rear will cost about the same as a bike tire . It will probably last twice as long . I wont tell you to use one . Read all the info you can find and make your own decision .
If you go to the homepage here on this forum then click on "bikers workshop " you will find several tutorials with details on the 1500 .

 

[rpeters549]

Yup- I forgot to mention fluids.
As for the car tire, lots of threads. Cost per mile is much lower since they last longer (at least the taller Austone does).
The Venom is a great tire, but the E3 will probably give you a lot more miles, though they do tend to 'sing' as they age. I did not find it bad at all, but I did notice it. Keeping the pressure up helps stave it off.
As for suspension- preference will be the biggest key. Set it with it up on the centerstand. Lower pressure will give a softer ride and a bit lower overall height. Higher will stiffen it up a bit and handle higher speeds a bit better. I run around 40-45 psi all the time. Since I run the Austone I like the slight bump in height.
Rich

 

[exavid]

If the current tires are only cupped don't worry about it. If the tread is still above the wear bars and no weather cracking is in the tread grooves or any other part of the tire run it some more. All tires will cup. Heavy bikes cup tires faster than light bikes. It ain't avoidable, because it's the nature of the beast.
From most reports I've heard is that Venoms are a great cornering tire but wear fast due to softer rubber for cornering traction. I've tried several different brands on my old 1500 in the 100,000 plus miles I rode it and liked Dunlop E3s best even though they sing a bit and get louder as they eventually cup. I usually got about 20,000 through 24,000 on the rear tire and around 12,000 or a bit more on the front.
If you do buy new tires it's a LOT cheaper to take the wheels to someone who will mount and balance them than taking the bike in to have it done.

 

[rpeters549]

^ And it lets you inspect and address stuff.
I never got over 18k out of an E3 though. I do tend to change them just before the wear bars though.