Many of the posts detail a lot of this. Since you are not super mechanically inclined you might not want to tackle the carbs or anything, but much of the maintenance does not require a huge amount of skill. Just common sense and the ability to go a step at a time.
With the front end off the ground (jack/wood under the motor) you can check the steering bearings. Twist left/right and see if rough, loose, flat spots, etc. Mine have a tick under 99k and they feel perfect.
When you do the brakes, clean (with a toothbrush and brake clean spray) the pistons before pushing them back in. Clean and grease the caliper pins (that allow the two halves of the caliper to slide). A sign this is an issue is one brake pad badly worn and the other not so much on the same caliper.
If the timing belts have never been changed it is easier with the wheel out of the way. This is a job that takes a while, but with the tutorial you could spend about $35 and a handful of hours nd be done. Again, not hard, but follow the directions.
Ad for forks, I have chosen not to mess with them. When I did my timing belts I removed them and dropped tham at the shop for a rebuild. Makes doing belts real easy as far as space goes, and for about $100 I had 100% fresh forks (oil, seals, etc).
Change the coolant. I assume you stay up on oil/filter changes.
Synchronize the carbs. After my annual tear apart and tune session I have realized a gain of 1-3 mpg. My carbs were within Honda spec (less than 2" out of synch) but I went all anal on it and got them to within 1/4". Easy, just need the tool.
Check the cruise and sub filters. Make some out of cheap foam paint brushes for less than $1. Easy! And the shape does not have to be perfect because they will squish to fit.
Out back?
Brakes, same as front.
Grease the drive splines requires removal of the rear wheel. I have used a basic high temp red bearing grease for the life of the bike so far, used annually, with no to minimal signs of wear. Many will say use Moly-60. Make your own decision there.
Change the oil in the drive unit. Easy, cheap.
Consider drying the dessicant in your air pump if you have one.
Inside the guts of the bike?
Check the air filter. Fuel filter is right next to the filler cap. Many on here use the NAPA #3003. It does not fit the rubber holder, but just sits off to the side.
Anywho, this just off the top of my head.
Goldwings are wonderful bikes. Extremely capable, but highly technical. So they require a little more preventative attention to make sure all the sensitive stuff does as it should.
Rich
With the front end off the ground (jack/wood under the motor) you can check the steering bearings. Twist left/right and see if rough, loose, flat spots, etc. Mine have a tick under 99k and they feel perfect.
When you do the brakes, clean (with a toothbrush and brake clean spray) the pistons before pushing them back in. Clean and grease the caliper pins (that allow the two halves of the caliper to slide). A sign this is an issue is one brake pad badly worn and the other not so much on the same caliper.
If the timing belts have never been changed it is easier with the wheel out of the way. This is a job that takes a while, but with the tutorial you could spend about $35 and a handful of hours nd be done. Again, not hard, but follow the directions.
Ad for forks, I have chosen not to mess with them. When I did my timing belts I removed them and dropped tham at the shop for a rebuild. Makes doing belts real easy as far as space goes, and for about $100 I had 100% fresh forks (oil, seals, etc).
Change the coolant. I assume you stay up on oil/filter changes.
Synchronize the carbs. After my annual tear apart and tune session I have realized a gain of 1-3 mpg. My carbs were within Honda spec (less than 2" out of synch) but I went all anal on it and got them to within 1/4". Easy, just need the tool.
Check the cruise and sub filters. Make some out of cheap foam paint brushes for less than $1. Easy! And the shape does not have to be perfect because they will squish to fit.
Out back?
Brakes, same as front.
Grease the drive splines requires removal of the rear wheel. I have used a basic high temp red bearing grease for the life of the bike so far, used annually, with no to minimal signs of wear. Many will say use Moly-60. Make your own decision there.
Change the oil in the drive unit. Easy, cheap.
Consider drying the dessicant in your air pump if you have one.
Inside the guts of the bike?
Check the air filter. Fuel filter is right next to the filler cap. Many on here use the NAPA #3003. It does not fit the rubber holder, but just sits off to the side.
Anywho, this just off the top of my head.
Goldwings are wonderful bikes. Extremely capable, but highly technical. So they require a little more preventative attention to make sure all the sensitive stuff does as it should.
Rich
