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Would love a "to-do" or "to-watch" list for a GL1500

932 Views 9 Replies 7 Participants Last post by  rpeters549
Hi all,

I have a 92 GL1500 that I bought last year after I finally gave up trying to duct tape my ventures plastic back together.

I have had it since last fall and have put about 10k miles on it. Which, for NY is quite a bit of riding. It has 108K miles on it and is in excellent condition.

Now while I am not mechanically declined, I usually don't love jumping into the guts of stuff until I have a need to. Recently I have noticed the brakes are chattering when the brake pedal is not depressed so I am going to change brake pads and clean stuff up per the forum posts that I have seen on here. I was also investigating a front end wobble and found the metzeler tire cupping issue that is quite common so I will be replacing tires this week as well. So I figure, while I have this stuff opened up, gonna do a basic tuneup and stuff, what other things are items I should look at, be aware of, inspect, etc. I know what the back of the manual says but what do YOU guys say? There are so many posts about fork seals and pressure and bearings and stuff that it makes my head spin. How bout a list of the most common or most important things I should learn how to check/adjust/repair on these bikes. If you have links to other forum posts that give instructions but if not, I can surely do the leg work, I just need some things to track down.

Thoughts? Like I said, there is nothing obviously wrong but just because it isn't blatant, doesn't mean I shouldn't be looking at it.

Would love to hear everyones take on this.



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Many of the posts detail a lot of this. Since you are not super mechanically inclined you might not want to tackle the carbs or anything, but much of the maintenance does not require a huge amount of skill. Just common sense and the ability to go a step at a time.

With the front end off the ground (jack/wood under the motor) you can check the steering bearings. Twist left/right and see if rough, loose, flat spots, etc. Mine have a tick under 99k and they feel perfect.
When you do the brakes, clean (with a toothbrush and brake clean spray) the pistons before pushing them back in. Clean and grease the caliper pins (that allow the two halves of the caliper to slide). A sign this is an issue is one brake pad badly worn and the other not so much on the same caliper.
If the timing belts have never been changed it is easier with the wheel out of the way. This is a job that takes a while, but with the tutorial you could spend about $35 and a handful of hours nd be done. Again, not hard, but follow the directions.
Ad for forks, I have chosen not to mess with them. When I did my timing belts I removed them and dropped tham at the shop for a rebuild. Makes doing belts real easy as far as space goes, and for about $100 I had 100% fresh forks (oil, seals, etc).
Change the coolant. I assume you stay up on oil/filter changes.
Synchronize the carbs. After my annual tear apart and tune session I have realized a gain of 1-3 mpg. My carbs were within Honda spec (less than 2" out of synch) but I went all anal on it and got them to within 1/4". Easy, just need the tool.
Check the cruise and sub filters. Make some out of cheap foam paint brushes for less than $1. Easy! And the shape does not have to be perfect because they will squish to fit.

Out back?
Brakes, same as front.
Grease the drive splines requires removal of the rear wheel. I have used a basic high temp red bearing grease for the life of the bike so far, used annually, with no to minimal signs of wear. Many will say use Moly-60. Make your own decision there.
Change the oil in the drive unit. Easy, cheap.
Consider drying the dessicant in your air pump if you have one.
Inside the guts of the bike?
Check the air filter. Fuel filter is right next to the filler cap. Many on here use the NAPA #3003. It does not fit the rubber holder, but just sits off to the side.
Anywho, this just off the top of my head.

Goldwings are wonderful bikes. Extremely capable, but highly technical. So they require a little more preventative attention to make sure all the sensitive stuff does as it should.
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Yup- I forgot to mention fluids.
As for the car tire, lots of threads. Cost per mile is much lower since they last longer (at least the taller Austone does).
The Venom is a great tire, but the E3 will probably give you a lot more miles, though they do tend to 'sing' as they age. I did not find it bad at all, but I did notice it. Keeping the pressure up helps stave it off.
As for suspension- preference will be the biggest key. Set it with it up on the centerstand. Lower pressure will give a softer ride and a bit lower overall height. Higher will stiffen it up a bit and handle higher speeds a bit better. I run around 40-45 psi all the time. Since I run the Austone I like the slight bump in height.
^ And it lets you inspect and address stuff.
I never got over 18k out of an E3 though. I do tend to change them just before the wear bars though.
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